Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet
March 18th, 2013

Menswear: Vintage Pendleton

 

 

March is such an interesting month.  Not quite winter, not quite spring.  As soon as I pull out some of my spring outfits after a series of warm days, it seems to snow.  It’s that time of year when your entire wardrobe needs to be available – and layers are a great idea.

I was outside running in Central on Friday before meeting my friend Ashley for lunch.  It was definitely a cold day!  As I was literally running over to meet her, she called me.  She said there was a man standing outside with one of the best vintage coats she’d ever seen.  Ashley was definitely right!

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Andrew was kind enough to talk fashion with us.  This beautiful vintage coat has a great silhouette – there are so many great construction details:  deeply notched lapel, the buckled leather trimmed tabs at the cuff, and matching brown leather buttons.

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(Here is a great chart on lapel types for you, gentlemen!)

 

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The wool used for the coat is also really beautiful.  You can see that it was woven with high quality yarns.  There is lots of color variation, and the slubs in the yarn give it such a great texture.  See how the surface is slightly uneven?  That is because the yarn thickness varies.  The thicker areas are called slubs, and definitely make the fabric more interesting.  Don’t you just want to run your had over the surface?  (Keep this in mind while shopping.  It’s generally a great purchase if people want to touch your clothing!)

 

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The back has a single vent that can be buttoned.  This is a detail that I just adore.  It makes the coat very functional.  Unbuttoning the vent makes walking around and moving easier, but also lets more cold air in.  Buttoned, the silhouette is more formfitting and warm.  What a wonderful detail!

 

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Ashley and I were just dying to know who the maker of the coat was.  Andrew said it was vintage Pendleton!  I learned a lot about Pendleton by reading The Vintage Traveler.  Pendleton is a woolen mill based in Portland, Oregon.  The company is family owned and operated, and is over 140 years old.  Thomas Kay was an English weaver that came to America in the 1860s and eventually opened his own mill in Portland.  You can read more about the company’s history here.

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Andrew definitely layered his look to adjust to the drastic temperature change that day.  He had on a hat, gloves, and a great wool sweater.  Turns out, Andrew’s sweater was also Pendleton.  This is a great label to search for if you’re into the vintage and secondhand market.  You can, of course, purchase new Pendleton products.  I have the boots they produced with Doc Martens!

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March 11th, 2013

Blogging: Reflections, Gratitude, Bliss

Blogging.  A few years ago, I considered it to be a ”cute hobby” for people with too much time on their hands, or for established professionals that were far more important than little old me.  I probably had this limiting belief because I wasn’t very confident about my own abilities and knowledge.  In 2009, I made my initial attempts at blogging after watching the movie Julie Julia.  If someone could create a successful blog, book, and film about attempting to cook their way through a cookbook, what was my excuse?  Blogging isn’t about being perfect.  It’s not about having all the answers.  Blogging is about sharing your passions, your struggles, your perspective in a unique way – with YOUR voice.

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One of the things I am most grateful for that has resulted from my blog is working on The Stieg Collection.    So much of cataloging and archiving a fashion collection is done in private.  I’ve worked for Calvin Klein, which considers it’s archive a proprietary secret.  Private clients are also mostly interested in safeguarding their privacy.  And with many schools, publicly writing about anything on campus means jumping through endless hoops of approvals and revisions.  The Baum School of Art gave me full creative vision in writing about The Stieg Collection.

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The Stieg Collection.  Image courtesy of The Baum School of Art.

Whenever I write, I pick topics that pull at my heartstrings.  I never want to present anyone or anything in a bad or unfavorable light.  I’m not into defaming or damaging people, companies, or objects.  That is not how I operate as a person.  To me, life is about pursuing your bliss.  I want to fill every moment of my life with ideas, people, and work that I absolutely love.  This is always the framework from which I operate while writing.

There is so much that I love about working on The Stieg Collection.  First of all, just being able to look at and touch the wonderful racks of garments is pretty amazing.  Researching and recording the history of the Utah Tailoring Mills has also been exhilarating.  But learning about the Stieg family has been even better!

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Jane and Robert Stieg, 1971.  Image courtesy of The Baum School of Art.

Jane and Robert Stieg were high school sweethearts.  They fell in love at age 16, married at age 22, and built a beautiful life together.  They were married for 62 years and had two sons – both of  whom I am so honored to have met “virtually” because of my blog!  From the onset of working on this collection, I could tell that Jane and Robert were amazing people.  They had great taste in clothing, and cared for everything meticulously.  But this is just the surface level.  Jane had passed away in 2004.  Robert carefully cared for Jane’s belongings, hoping to donate them to a museum or school that would use them.  Not only did Robert want to create a tribute to his wife, he wanted to make a philanthropic donation.  He could have easily sold Jane’s clothing, or just have disposed of it.  But he didn’t.  He wanted the garments to be useful, and to tell a story.

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Dress by the Utah Tailoring Mills for Jane Stieg.  Also appears in image above.  Image courtesy of The Baum School of Art.

Robert also recently passed away.  I’m so sad that I never got a chance to speak with him myself.  However, I do have the opportunity to speak with Jane and Robert’s sons.  They have shared more information on their incredible parents.  They’ve assured me that Jane and Robert never fell out of love.  Robert Stieg Jr explained a bit more about the collection to me in a blog comment:

Monica, your blog posts are terrific, and I know both my mother and father would have enjoyed them tremendously.  My mother loved wearing the clothes and my father made the gift of them in the hope that others would enjoy them and find them useful as they pursured their own paths.

 

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Jane and Robert Stieg, 1994.  Image courtesy of The Baum School of Art.

I always find clothing interesting and useful.  But this is because they always tell a story.  Clothing tells about the time period, the political conditions, social groups, and so much more.  The ways that individuals amass a wardrobe also communicates their personal identity.  I think that Jane Stieg’s wardrobe tells a great deal about her.  She was classy, put together, and definitely took a lot of pride being Robert’s wife.  Ironically enough, you can tell a lot about Robert by Jane’s clothing.  He bought her the best he could afford, he wanted to make her happy, and saved the garments she loved so that her memory could live on.  What could be more beautiful than that?

 

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Many thanks to Phillip and Robert Stieg, The Baum School of Art, and Boyd Bingham!   And remember, you can see objects from The Stieg Collection at our VINTAGE event!  Buy your tickets soon, as there is a limited number available.  

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March 6th, 2013

Celebrating The Stieg Collection!

I’ve been so lucky to catalog and archive The Stieg Collection at The Baum School of Art.  About a year ago, the school was gifted the custom-made wardrobe of Mrs. Robert Stieg (Jane).  The collection spans from 1958 – 1968, and every garment was made especially for her by the Utah Tailoring Mills.  (New to my site?  Please read more about The Stieg Collection!)
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Back in November, I started organizing, photographing, and cataloging the collection for teaching purposes.  Of course, I also started researching and writing about the collection because it is such a fashion history gem.  My enthusiasm has been a bit contagious!  Happily, we are celebrating this generous donation by hosting the event VINTAGE.
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On Thursday, April 11th, you can join us to learn all about The Stieg Collection.  I’ll be giving a short presentation on Jane Stieg, the Utah Tailoring Mills, and how the Baum School of Art is using this resource for their fashion design program.  Several pieces from the collection will be on display.

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In addition, there will be a chance to buy your vintage treasures.  Remedy, Underwired Vintage, and Duo Design Studios will be there with their fabulous merchandise.  The event will be at the swanky Cosmopolitan in Allentown.  Tickets are available for purchase, just click here.  Hope to see there!
Many thanks to Lehigh Valley Style, Cosmopolitan, The Baum School of Art, and our vendors mentioned above!

 

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February 6th, 2013

Find of the Week: Red, Please!

Ok, so I’ve established that fashion is always on my mind. Even when I’m not intentionally shopping, I seem to find amazing stuff everywhere I go.  For many years, it’s made budgeting difficult. But my taste has evolved. I’m much more discerning about my purchases now. I’ve also gotten much better with setting and sticking to a budget.

Budgeting has, in fact, improved the quality of my wardrobe. I think twice before buying something mediocre. And I always seem to have the funds when something amazing is on the radar. I thought it would be fun to start a new category devoted to some of my stellar finds. So stay tuned for “find of the week“.

So today, I found this amazing sweater!!  It works perfectly with the trending and classic “touches of red” styles seen just about everywhere lately.  (It’s really a classic trend!  Just ask The Vintage Traveler.)

 

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I love this sweater! It’s such a classic, and is durable. It can be casual with jeans and boots, or upscale with a skirt or dress.  The gold buttons add a little shimmer.  And the pockets are such a menswear inspired detail.

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Best of all, I can just toss it in the washing machine. I was sad, however, that the original tag had been cut out.  I wish I knew who was responsible for making this adorable cardigan.

 

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But I guess the amazing red dress it came with sort of evens things out. Yes, they came as a set!  I wouldn’t pair these two pieces together, though. I like them worn separately.  The dress is so perfect for spring.  Or a summer night.  I can hardly wait for warmer weather!

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February 2nd, 2013

Menswear: Trainspotting

Street style blogs are so great.  They are great visual chronicles of what’s going on in a specific city or town.   I’m not sure why I haven’t dedicated more posts to admiring other people’s style.

So today, I’m branching out and doing a street style recap.  Earlier in the week, I saw this stylish gentleman on the train.

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I wasn’t too sure about sneaky photo etiquette.  I really just wanted to “snap and run“, but it seemed sort of rude.  What would you think if you caught a random stranger taking your picture on the train?  The word creepy comes to mind…

So I decided to walk over and ask if I could photograph him.  Thankfully, after fumbling through my explanation of how I blog and what I was doing, Mauricio allowed me to take a few pictures.

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So here is what I like about his look:

The outfit is minimalist, which is classic and versatile.  The pieces are well-cut, crisp, and monochromatic.  Since the colors are muted, each piece can be mixed and matched in endless ways.  Minimalist pieces are a great way to expand your wardrobe because each one acts as a building block.

The accessories compliment the look without being overpowering.  The bag is vintage, which also gives the look a bit of originality.  Vintage finds are always a nice way to make your look authentic- it’s rare to find the same vintage piece twice!

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We only chatted briefly – 3 or 4 stops- but Mauricio recommends the following brands and stores:

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January 30th, 2013

Inspiration to Shop My Closet

Yesterday was my birthday. I celebrated by catching up on all my magazines. There was an unnerving stack piling up, and I’ve just been too busy to comb through them.

Honestly, I’ve been disappointed with the fashion industry in the past few months.  Everything that I see in stores recently is lackluster. The quality is poor. The cut is worse.  Retailers have cut corners in ways I never imagined would become acceptable.

I recently bought a pair of pants at Zara only to get them home and find a hole in the seam and the rivet fell off almost immediately. I had no desire to shop on my birthday.  Instead, I hoped the endless stack of magazines would give me inspiration to style things I already own.  These were my major inspirations:

  • Scarves

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 The image above is from Raf Simon’s collection for Dior.  Models sashayed down the runways with beautiful scarves tied about their necks.  If you know me, I’ve got a small (insane) obsession with scarves.  So shopping my closet for this look won’t be a problem.  I have an entire suitcase of drool-worthy scarves.  The only problem is many of them are so beautiful and artistic I’m afraid of ruining them.  (Yes, the suitcase is full.)

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  • Leopard & Cheeta Prints

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This was in just about every magazine I opened!  This is a print that I only do in small doses.  It’s easy for it to look overdone or just tacky.  I always stick to animal prints in my accessories.  Happily, I can bring out some of my old favorites: d’orsay heels, a Marc Jacobs cuff, and a Dolce & Gabbana scarf!

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  • Touches of Red

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So classic!  I love red.  Red dresses.  Red skirts.  Red accessories!  Bright red never goes out of style.  It’s just nice to be reminded to wear it again.  Sometimes, I get so caught up with daily life it’s easy to wear the same few outfits and accessories as a routine.  It’s especially easy to forget when you have the kind of schedule I do.  I barely even know if I’m coming or going I’m so busy.  I’m definitely making an effort to wear some (maybe all) of my red accessories this week.

In my collection? Clockwise from center back: Narciso Rodriguze cutout peep toe heels, Giuseppe Zanotti tri-color pumps, Louis Vuitton epi leather purse, Foley & Corrina leather belt, vintage leather gloves.

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  • Plaid

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Jessica Alba was interviewed in InStyle.  This picture of her was super adorable!  I loved her plaid skirt paired with a black leather jacket.  It reminded me of a skirt I bought a few months ago and still haven’t worn.  And on the topic of leather and plaid together, I played around with my skirt.  I usually wear my red leather skirt by Luca Luca with a black bustier top.  But isn’t it really fun with this vintage plaid shirt?

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  • Black & Blue
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Hurray for this trend!  Blue is my favorite color.  I don’t think anyone can go wrong with pairing an icy blue with black.  It’s just so beautiful!  I love that these two dresses have a sort of painterly textile print.  There’s a lot of visual movement and color variation.  It adds a lot of interest, and the black details give it an extra pop.  This gave me an idea to layer my Brian Reyes sheath dress with a black long sleeved shirt.

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I can’t wait to wear all of these new looks!  And they were already in my closet.  :)

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December 25th, 2012

Merry Christmas!

A short post to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas.  I hope you have a wonderful day.  Thank you for reading and enjoy these love vintage inspired greeting cards I’ve stumbled upon.

Happy holidays!

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Image courtesy of Life, Love, & Luxury.

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October 26th, 2012

Dressing Room Confessions: Label Whore?

That’s right – I said it.  Label whore.  I always thought this was a ridiculous expression.  It’s a sort of slang to describe someone that only wears brand name clothing.  While I haven’t heard the term in ages, I always understood to to refer to people that equate labels to taste.  It simply isn’t true.  Taste and style are all about the right silhouette for your body, and the right pairing of clothing and accessories to express your personality.  Buying and wearing something solely based on a brand name is not a great strategy for developing personal style.  There’s much more to it than that.
I certainly have favorite designers and labels.  But there is something about the arrangement of fashion that is personal.  It’s creating a composition: various elements are arranged on your body to communicate something about who you are.  This can’t be dictated by a brand, but discovered through trial and error.
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As I was out buying new items for the store, this label caught my eye.  It was located on a brightly colored plaid scarf.  The beautiful colors had already grabbed my attention, but such a beautiful label made me drop everything.  Who was Herbert Gallant?  I’d never heard of him before.  The label sat there and taunted me.  Questions flurried through my mind: was he French? Or American? And when was it from?  Could Gallant be (or have been) someone important?
The scarf was included in my purchases.  I was lost in thought while at the checkout.  A mystery was in front of me, and I couldn’t wait to solve it.  I paid and left.  But somewhere in the parking lot, I wondered to myself, “Does this make me a label whore?”  I had, after all, purchased a pretty scarf mostly based on a label I knew nothing about.  Maybe I was venturing into the realm of fashion promiscuity.
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Luckily, I checked my email when I got home.  When 140 Characters Aren’t Enough was waiting in my inbox.  Sometimes, I think Lizzie Bramlett writes things just for me.  Her post discusses how many vintage resellers don’t include photographs of labels.  How irksome!  Labels give so much information about the brand and era that a garment was made.  She showed us the evolution of the White Stag label, from 1955 to present day.  As a seller myself, I know I couldn’t possibly write a description that covers the an entire history of a designer or brand.  That is why I always include photos of any tags or markings when I list an item.  Having worked in the art market, buyers demand signatures and authentication.  What happens if a painting isn’t signed?  Without a solid provenance (chronology of ownership) and letter of authentication from experts, the artwork is virtually unsellable.  Why should a garment be any different?
The Vintage Fashion Guild has an excellent label resource, which I highly recommend.  Collectors and members upload images of labels and contribute biographical entries.  There is so much information on just about any designer you want to know.  From their site, I was able to find out that Herbert Gallant was the son of Frank Gallant.  With a quick click, I found his biography:

A manufacturer of women’s suits and coats, the company was founded by Frank Gallant in 1916. Gallant’s son Herbert joined the company in 1945 and became president in 1955. Tom Brigance was the designer as of 1951 and stayed into the 1960s. Frank Gallant died 1965. In 1965, the head designer was Martin Unger, who moved to Zelinka-Matlick that year.

Frank Gallant, Inc. sold women’s coats and suits to such stores as Saks, Lord & Taylor, Bloomingdale’s, De Pinna, and Altman’s. The company name was changed to Gallant International in 1968. They held licenses for Cardin Coats starting in 1976, and also had the Geoffrey Beene for Gallant line. Robert Gallant became president in 1998. Herbert Gallant died 2007.

Written by pastperfectvintage.com via The Vintage Fashion Guild

My instincts were spot on.  I’m not relying on a label or brand to establish my style.  However, I recognize there is importance behind a name.  Labels carry a certain sense of history with them.  It’s worth paying attention to them.  Understanding a label and what it represents doesn’t make you – or me – a label whore.  It makes us smarter consumers.
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August 30th, 2012

Vintage Doylestown

When I’m quiet, you know that I’ve gotten myself into something interesting.  This week, I have several writing deadlines.  But I’ve just been dying to share a great place with all of you, so I tore myself away from work.

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Shopping local and supporting American entrepreneurs are two of the  most important things you can do to improve the economy.  So when I go shopping, I try my best to do both.  It’s so easy to do at Vintage Doylestown, a great store in the town where I work.

 

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Owner Debi Seltzer has some amazingly cute items.  She constantly offers new merchandise.  She  attends auctions and estate sales weekly to refresh her inventory, so you’ll never see the same thing twice.  I stopped in a few days ago, and spotted this amazing straw tote.  I had to have it!  The colors are perfect for my wardrobe transition from summer to fall .
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I also found the perfect gift for my mom.  She was having a bad week, so I thought I’d try to make her smile with a pair of earrings.  Presents have a funny way of making people happy.  The best part was, aside from being chic, they were very affordable.
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What I really loved about my last trip to Vintage Doylstown was Debi’s amazing gift wrapping.  She has a similar philosophy to me: reduce waste, support local businesses, and do it all stylishly.  She uses old mismatched earrings to adorn the recycled, made in America boxes.
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What a great idea!  A re-purposed bow and reusable box. Doesn’t it make you want to buy a present for someone you love?
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Even if you’re not in Doylestown, you can see what Vintage Doylestown has to offer.  Like their Facebook page and take a peek.

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August 28th, 2012

Guest Post: Shannon Rodgers for Jerry Silverman

Today’s post is extra special!  It’s from Lizzie Bramlett of  The Vintage Traveler.  Back in May, we did a vintage shopping tour of Atlanta.  She took me to some amazing places.  However, I was deliriously tired for most of the adventure.  In 36 hours, I had been in 3 different states and slept for about 1 hour.  The sleep deprivation didn’t affect my ability to shop, but it did impair my memory.

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Vintage shopping extravaganza in Atlanta.  Image courtesy of Lizzie Bramlett

I came  across a beautiful three-piece dress.  The fabric and construction were immaculate. Unfortunately, it didn’t fit me.  It was created for someone petite.  I showed it to Lizzie, because I had never heard of the maker before: Shannon Rodgers for Jerry Silverman.  I couldn’t remember the name for life of me.  I must have asked Lizzie a million times about the label.  So thankfully, she offered to write a guest post to tell us all about it.  (Thanks, Lizzie!)

 

One of the benefits of looking at so much vintage clothing over the past thirty years is that I’ve learned a lot about labels from the past, and can recognize many that have faded into obscurity.  While shopping with Monica in Atlanta in May, we ran across a wonderful dress set with what I knew to be a very nice label: Shannon Rodgers for Jerry Silverman.

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Shannon Rodgers for Jerry Silverman label.  Image courtesy of Lizzie Bramlett.

 

Neither man is exactly a household name today, but in the 1960s and 1970s their dresses were sought out by fashionable women who wanted a stylish but not over-designed dress.  They made what was known as “better dresses,” which were made with a combination of machine and hand sewing.  Today Rodgers and Silverman are remembered by any vintage clothing dealer or collector who is lucky enough to come across an example of their work.  Interestingly, they are probably best remembered not for the dresses they made, but for the ones they collected.

 

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Shannon Rodgers for Jerry Silverman dress.  Image courtesy of Lou Lou Vintage.

 

Shannon Rodgers trained as an architect, and after college he left his native Ohio for New York City.  There he found work on Broadway, designing and making sets for theater productions and working as a costume assistant.  In 1932 Cecil B. DeMille saw his work and took Shannon to Hollywood to work on costumes for his movies.  During the 1930s Shannon divided his time between California and New York, where he worked as a sketcher for several fashion houses.

 

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Shannon Rodgers for Jerry Silverman sheath dress.  Image courtesy of Dorothea’s Closet.

 

Shannon spent WWII  in the Army Transport Service.  When the war ended he returned to New York where he learned of a design job at a cocktail dress maker called Martini.  He applied for the job and was hired by a manager there, Jerry Silverman.

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Martini designed dress.  Image courtesy of Vintage Wear on Ebay.

 

Jerry was a native New Yorker who graduated from Harvard at age 16, and then studied law.  He soon left the law behind to work in the garment industry.  He was first sales manager at Martini, and eventually he became a vice president in the company.  Martini was known for their Paris couture inspired cocktail dresses.

In 1959 Shannon and Jerry formed their own company, Shannon Rodgers for Jerry Silverman.  Their product was day and afternoon dresses, though they often made cocktail dresses as well.  The pair continued to attend the Paris couture shows, but they did not buy styles to copy outright.  Instead Shannon focused on the details of interesting dresses, adapting a silhouette or sleeve or hem to fit their American customers’ tastes.

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Shannon Rodgers (left) and Jerry Silverman (right).  Image courtesy of Kent State Library.

Along with designing dresses, Shannon was a collector of antique clothing and textiles  He and Jerry also collected antiques and decorative objects.  As their design and manufacturing careers began to wind down, their thoughts turned to preserving the collection and making it available to the public.

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Shannon Rodgers for Jerry Silverman.  Image courtesy of Main Street Vintage.

 

Starting in 1979, Shannon and Jerry worked with Kent State University in Ohio, producing fashion shows as fund raisers.  In 1983 the arrangement became permanent with the formation of the Shannon Rodgers and Jerry Silverman School of Design and Merchandising and the Kent State University Museum.  The Rodgers/Silverman collection was the neucleus of the new museum.

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Advertisement from Vogue: . “…a supple sheath with a luxurious slubbed texture, etched with exquisite Madeira motifs and lined all the way with China silk. Shannon Rodgers designs it for Jerry Silverman. Beige, white or blue.”  Image courtesy of Here & There.

 

Unfortunately, Jerry did not live to see the museum’s opening.  He died in October 1984, and the museum was officially opened in September 1985.  Shannon continued to work for the museum until his death in 1996.  Today their legacy lives on at Kent State in the museum and the fashion school that bears their names.

The Museum at Kent State is well worth a visit.  There are always several fashion exhibits running concurrently.  If a trip to Ohio is not in your near future, check out their website, which as a new online gallery. http://www.kent.edu/museum/index.cfm

 

Thanks, Lizzie!  And if you love the dresses above, most of them are for sale!  Simply click on the links I’ve provided in the caption.  Happy shopping!

 

 

 

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August 22nd, 2012

Shop with me!

When I started this blog 2 years ago, I never envisioned that it would have blossomed into what it is today.  The fact that people read what I write makes my heart melt.  Initially, it was just a way to record ideas and things I found interesting.  Sometimes these things are serious, sometimes they are silly.  But never in my wildest dreams did I think my blog would be a platform to  connect with so many fantastic people!

 

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I’ve received overwhelming support for readers and friends.  People seem to love my taste (thank you!) and the idea was placed in my head that I should start a store.  Of course this idea was very interesting to me.  So today, I’m very pleased to announce that my site now includes a store!

 

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I’ll be offering vintage , like the beaded top above, and original paintings.  Since this is the beginning, I’m starting out small.  Everything in the store is something that I’ve personally selected because I love it.  And I’m obviously very particular about what I like!  I hope you enjoy what I’ve picked.  Please come back regularly.  There will be new things all the time.

 

No matter where you are, you can always shop with me now!  

Also, be sure to like my Facebook page.  This will enter you into a chance to win the painting below.  The winner will be selected at random and announced on September 1st.

 

Happy shopping! 

 

Nobska Lighthouse

Nobska Lighthouse by David Ohlerking.  Oil on board.

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August 20th, 2012

Jetson Style

Facebook is such a great platform for finding interesting businesses.  House of Liza is a London-based boutique that has some killer vintage.  They have a retail component, as well as a renting clothing for TV and film.  Their Facebook page always has beautiful photos, and lots of fun information for fashion history lovers!

 

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Last week, they posted archived print ads to a Facebook album.  The above image of Claude Montana for Gianni Ballanti was included.  This photo reminded me of the Space Age style so common in the late 1960s.  In fact, it made me remember a great presentation by Whitney Robertson on Space Age style as seen in The Jetsons.

There is a great episode when Jane and Judy go shopping for new hats.  Looks a lot like Montana’s design, doesn’t it?

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GHTime Code(s): nc 

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