Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet
April 1st, 2013

Joan Mitchell

Teaching doesn’t come with an instruction manual.  I’d never planned to be a teacher.  Yet almost four years ago, I found myself in front of a classroom.  To say that I was anxious would be an understatement.  Luckily, it got easier with practice.  The very first course I taught was called Fashion Seminar at FIDM.  Part theory, part portfolio development, I was responsible for teaching fashion theory along with art.  The portfolio consisted of a series of art assignments.  The learning outcome was to take an inspiration source and create new and meaningful artwork from it. Each week, we would have a new focus: collage, found object, textile design, and so forth.  There was one assignment that initially gave me any problems.  It was called multiple sensory.

 

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Untitled by Joan Mitchell, 1969.  Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

I understood the concept.  Say your inspiration source is a tree.  How does it feel to touch its bark?  Try drawing that sensation.  Obviously, there is no “wrong” way to do this assignment.  Yet it caused so much confusion the first time I tried to explain this to the students.  For me, this was frustrating.  I didn’t seem to have the right words to explain the desired result.  But then, I remembered learning about synesthesia.  I decided to do a little research and present my findings to the class.

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Detail. Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

Synesthesia is a neurologically-based condition in which stimulation of one sensory pathway leads to automatic, involuntary experiences in a second sensory pathway. Synesthetes, those that have synesthesia, will see colors when they hear sound or touch objects.  (I’ve written about this before!  Please read my post Synesthesia in Art & Fashion.  It’s one of my favorites!)  When I research, I go to libraries and book stores.  I build a sort of book fort around myself, and get lost in thought for hours.  I stumbled across several great books, but the best one was a small catalog called Synesthesia: Art & the Mind.  It’s fantastic, and I have a copy in my personal collection.

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Untitled by Joan Mitchell, 1978.  Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

This catalog is how I became acquainted with Joan Mitchell.  And it was love at first sight!  There is a small essay by Patricia Albers in this catalog, and it explains all about Joan Mitchell and how her synesthesia influenced her paintings.  Albers explains:

Joan Mitchell had several forms of synesthesia, including personality-color synesthesia, in which other people induce colors . . .

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 Heel, Sit, Stay by Joan Mitchell, 1977.  Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

It turns out that Mitchell also had “colored-hearing” synesthesia, or that she would see shapes and colors while listening to music.  She also has eidetic memory (aka photographic memory) which means that instead of remembering, she would quite literally relive the past.  Albers goes on to explain:

” ‘I carry my landscapes around with me’ she often said, in the form of images that ‘roosted inside’ her.   As involved as she was with trees, rivers, fields, clouds, weather, and so on, she did not work out-of-doors, but rather mentally ‘framed’ whatever spoke to her: ‘the motion is made still like a fish trapped in ice.  It is trapped in the painting.  My mind is like an album of photographs and paintings.’ “

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Tilleul by Joan Mitchell, 1978.  Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

Lehigh University currently has a show on Joan Mitchell’s work.  It doesn’t touch on her synesthesia, but I sat in front of these large scale works and just marveled at them.  I really enjoyed the painting above. This canvas just looks like a tree to me.  I stared at it for a while, wondering if I was looking up at branches.  It was like going for a walk through Mitchell’s personal landscape.  This painting really made me happy.  And there was just so much to look at!  It’s even more magical up-close.  Look at the details:

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Details. Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

 

When I explained synesthesia and showed Mitchell’s artwork to my students, I saw a drastic improvement on the work they produced.  There is a really freeing sense that developed in my classroom.  Everyone can experiencing a merging of the senses to some degree.  But the very idea stimulates creativity.  Sensations, emotions – they aren’t logical, nor do they possess a recognizable visual form.  So relating feelings and perceptions to colors and forms in art was almost liberating to the students.  Their creations didn’t have to look like anything, but there was always a recognizable correlation to their inspiration.

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Untitled by Joan Mitchell, c. 1952.  Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

As I walked through the Mitchell exhibit, I had the real sense of experiencing nature.  A tree, a leaf, branches, flowers, rain, sunshine through a window – I had the sensations of experiencing it the way Mitchell must have.  This painting made me think of blossoming flowers.  At first, I saw one large flower.  But as I approached the canvas, it seemed there were small flowers scattered about.

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Detail. Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

 

It reminded me of the critiques I had with my students in LA.  Somehow, it all makes sense.  If you are in the Bethlehem area, please drop in to see the show!  It is at the Zoellner Art Center until May 2013.

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Untitled by Joan Mitchell, 1992.  Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University. 

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November 18th, 2012

Significant Others: Sonia & Robert Delaunay

During the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy, I started reading Significant Others: Creativity & Intimate Partnership. This book is a series of essays that explores the relationships of great artists.  It is an attempt to understand how gender, creativity, and partnership influence art.  Writing and painting take place in a sort of isolation, the privacy of a studio or home.  But what happens when to great writers or artists form a relationship?  How does this collaboration that happens behind closed doors affect the creative process? Can they both be geniuses?  Or is on person just an enabler of genius?

 

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Sonia and Robert Delaunay.  Image courtesy of Penny Fabricart

 

I immediately started with chapter two, Living Simultaneously: Sonia and Robert Delaunay.  This couple interested me several years ago.  When I taught in LA, I introduced the concept of synesthesia to my students to stimulate their creativity.  I can’t couldn’t help but wonder if artist and fashion designer Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979) had synesthesia.  Sonia, along with her husband, painter Robert Delaunay (1885-1941), developed a color theory called simultaneity – the sensation of movement when contrasting colors are placed side by side.  She also referred to her garments from the 1920s as robe poemes, or dress poems.

 

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Sonia Delaunay.  Skirt, Tissu simultané no. 186, France, ca. 1926; block printed wool jersey.  Image courtesy of  Studio & Garden.

 

The essay by Whitney Chadwick really puts the time period and the relationship between these two creative forces into perspective.  The 1910s were years dominated by the search for modernity in all its forms.  This was as a decade when “the new” was pursued in all areas: the fashionable ideal began to relax, art became more abstract, and urban life allowed ideas and theories to circulate easily.  Paris was one of the great urban capitals of this decade, and the city where Sonia and Robert met in 1908.
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Rhythm by Robert Delaunay, 1912.  Image courtesy of wikipaintings.

 

Both were painters and influenced each other greatly.  Each exhibited their work in galleries, and actively participated in the art scene during the time.  Robert was also interested in the academic aspects of art, and later developed theories to explain his work.  However, in 1909 Sonia switched mediums and began creating quilts, embroideries, and clothing.

 

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Sonia Delaunay.  Design C53, France, 1924; gouache and pencil.  Image courtesy of  Studio & Garden.

 

What I find so interesting is that, despite completely different media and approaches, the Delaunays created similar works.  It seems to me that their relationship was mutually productive and enriching.  Sonia would create the “fabric” of their home environment: clothing, curtains, lampshades, quilts and Robert would paint and theorize about their methods of creation.  They each contributed to inspiring the other.  This is mostly because while they had similar goals, they had different perspectives.  Chadwick explains:

“However indebted Robert may have been to Sonia’s more spontaneous and uninhibited expression of color – of she to his years of studying and analyzing form – they both understood their sources quite differently.” 

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Simultaneous Windows on the City, 1912, by Robert Delaunay,

 

Robert’s approach to creating and painting was very scientific.  He constantly sought out theories and justifications for his use of color and form.  Sonia was able to translate sensations into creative form very easily because of her training, but never sought to formally explain her art.

 

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Sonia Delaunay.  Design 951bis, fabric samples, France, 1929; printed silk.  Image courtesy of  Studio & Garden.

 

The reading sent me on a spiral of looking up each of their works.  Their use of color and form is similar, yet distinct.  I find it so interesting to see how their work obviously parallels.  They both shared the aesthetic vision of simultaneity.  Where they differed was their ideal audience.  Robert wanted to remain an academic painter in the salon, while Sonia believed art should be accessible to everyone and took it to the street.

 

 
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Circular Forms (Formes circulaires), 1930. Oil on canvas, 50 3/4 x 76 3/4 inches (128.9 x 194.9 cm). Image courtesy of  the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, New York.  Solomon R. Guggenheim Founding Collection  49.1184
 
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Sonia Delaunay.  Design 1317, working drawing, France, 1934; colorprint, pencil, and ink on paper.  Image courtesy of  Studio & Garden.
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Rhythme: Robert Delaunay, 1938. Image by SandrineT, 28 April 2009 August 2010 (Musee d’Art Moderne, Paris) Image courtesy of Tom Clark.
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Sonia Delaunay.  Scarf, produced by Liberty’s of London, France, ca. 1967; printed silk voile.  Image courtesy of  Studio & Garden.
I think the difference in perspective and desired audience allowed the Delaunays relationship to remain positive.  Instead of directly competing with each other, they inspired one another.  They created a stimulating and creative environment.  They were both able to express themselves though diverse media, and somehow blend them together.  A great example of this domestic and creative harmony is the image below.  It’s a portrait of Tristan Tzara, painted by Robert, wearing one of Sonia’s scarves.

 

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Portrait of Tristan Tzara by Robert Delaunay, 1923.  Image courtesy of  Wearable Art.

 






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July 5th, 2012

Dressing Room Confessions: Making Waves

On Monday, I found this amazing vintage dress.  It was homemade in the 1950s.  But look at that textile print!  It reminded me of sound waves.   If you’ve been to my blog before, you’ll know my interest in synesthesia.  Anything that visually references sound fascinates me.

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Delighted with the fit, I purchased it right away.  When I got home, I realized that it had been altered slightly.  The neckline was now straight across, while originally it was a sweetheart neckline.  The hem had originally been scalloped to mimic the print, too.  Now the hem is straight across.  (It is a printed cotton piqué)

 

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I couldn’t help but think of Lucienne Day (1917-2010), a British textile designer known for her Post-War abstract designs.

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Magnetic Fabric by Lucienne Day.  Printed linen union fabric.  Image courtesy of pallantbookshop.com 
Day used lots of abstract and geometric patterns in her textile designs, reminiscent of Wassily Kandinsky and Joan Miro.  (And Kandinsky had synesthesia!)
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Lucienne Day.  Photo by John Gay.  Image courtesy of The National Portrait Gallery 
Day was interested in pragmatic design.  An artist in her own right, she always considered herself a textile designer.  She explained:
I’m very interested in modern painting although I didn’t want to be a painter. I put my inspiration from painting into my textiles, partly, because I suppose I was very practical. I still am. I wanted the work I was doing to be seen by people and be used by people. They had been starved of interesting things for their homes in the war years, either textiles or furniture.
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 Textile designs by Lucienne Day.  Images courtesy of  thelittlenestbox.blogspot.com
Interestingly enough, I also came across artist Louisa Bufardeci.  A contemporary artist that works with needlepoint, Bufardeci has a series of work that explores taped phone conversations.
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1 of 13 Captured Telephone Conversations by Louisa Bufardeci.  Image courtesy of the artist.  
The series are machine embroideries of the sound waves over the phone.  Bufardeci’s artist statement sheds some light on her source of inspiration:
Warrantless, wireless, telephone tapping – how does it affect the sanctity of the domestic space? 13 captured telephone conversations – all one minute long captures the sense of paranoia generated by the idea that anyone could be listening in, anytime. These particular thirteen conversations are sourced from a mixture of conversations from history known to have been tapped, conversations from my private home, and conversations between abstract people.
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 13 Captured Telephone Conversations by Louisa Bufardeci.  Image courtesy of the artist.  

 Obviously, I’m not the only person interested in the visual quality of sound waves.  But I think it’s time to make a Dressing Room Confession:  Great clothes do all the talking for you. 

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May 11th, 2011

Synesthesia in Art and Fashion

Synesthesia has been on my mind a lot lately.  The first time I was introduced to the concept, I was reading A Picture of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde.  The novel is deliciously written, exploring colors, shapes and the theme of art for art’s sake.  A particular passage always stuck with me:

One should absorb the colors of life, but one should never remember its details.  Details are always vulgar.

 

And that, in part, is what synesthesia is.  Synesthesia is a neurologically-based condition in which stimulation of one sensory pathway leads to automatic, involuntary experiences in a second sensory pathway. Synesthetes, those that have synesthesia, will see colors when they hear sound or touch objects.

 

Sveral Circles by synethete Wassily Kandinsky, 1926.

 

 

Every case of synesthesia is different.  Some people see colors while tasting food.  Others hear sounds from the smell of fragrances.  Some can taste sounds and images.  The most commonly reported phenomenon is people hearing and seeing letters and numbers in colors.  Each color has a specific color.  No synesthete sees the same color for letters.

 

When thinking about this, I imagine listening to my favorite music and watching a myriad of brilliant, color-saturated shapes and lines performing before my eyes.  What a beautiful way to experience life!  It is difficult to say how many people have synesthesia.  First of all, they experience this blending of the senses since birth.  They do not see it as a “condition”, but as a regular way of living.  Secondly, while research has been conducted on synesthesia since the 1880s, findings have not been widely distributed.  Today, it’s estimated that as many as 1 per every 100 person possesses this magical gift.

 

This video, An Eyeful of Sound, tries to show you the experience of synesthesia:

 

 

There is good news.  To a certain degree, we all experience synesthesia.  Stoop interference tests illustrate this.  These tests use the word green written in a a different color of ink.  You are asked to identify the word, and ignore the color – tricky, eh?

 

 

Example of a Stoop Test

 

The early researchers were Heinrich Kluver (1897-1979) and Georg Anschutz (1886-1953), both of which worked independently.  Frustrated by romanticized, poetic, and vague descriptions of what synethetes were seeing, they conduced rigorous studies with the collaboration of synesthetes to peer inside their minds, and produce a classification of the experience.  These studies included the synethetes creating artwork. Here are images produced from the studies:

 

Original drawings by Max Gehlsen, reproduced in Georg Anschutz Farbe-Ton-Forschungen, Vol. 1. 1927.

 

Original drawing by Heinrich Hein as reproduced in Georg Anschutz Farbe-Ton-Forschungen, Vol. 1. 1927.

 

My interest in synesthesia led me to an exhibition catalog for the show Synesthesia: Art and the Mind, a show produced by McMaster Museum of Art in Ontario, Canada.  (I highly recommend this catalog!)  Much to my delight, the catalog explained synesthesia in crystal clear detail, while divulging that many of my favorite artists and musicians were in fact synethetes.  The list includes: Vincent Van Gogh, Wassily Kandinsky, Charles Burchfield, Joan Mitchell, and Duke Ellington.  Wow, this explains a lot. . .

 

Charles Burchfield (1893-1967) was an American watercolor painter.  Based in Ohio, his main works explored nature and the effects of Industrialism on small towns.  His work includes unusual color combinations, rhythmic use of lines and shapes, as well as ordinate objects enveloped in auras of color.  These are typical signatures of a synesthetic artist.

 

 

September Wind and Rain, by Charles Burchfield 1949 Watercolor on paper mounted on board, 22 x 48"

 

Charles Burchfield Road and Sky, 1917 watercolor and gouache on paper 17-1/2 x 21-1/2 inches

Moon and Thunder by Charles Curchfield, 1960.

 

Afterglow, July 8, 1916, watercolor and graphite on paper, 44 x 20 inches

 

 

Sunlight in Forest by Charles Burchfirld, 1916

The Luminous Tree by Charles Burchfield 1917

Sunset 1917 Charles Burchfield (1893-1967/American)

 

Joan Mitchell (1925-1992), also American, was an Abstract Expressionist   Her paintings are expansive, often covering two separate panels.  Mitchell was also primarily influenced by landscapes, and drawn to works by Van Gogh and Kandinsky.  (Makes me wonder if synethetes are are drawn to each other like magnets.)  Her paintings contain scribbles, scratches, and drips of paint that have a sense of movement.  Some of the paintings seem like they will drip off of the canvas and disappear.  Others look like the hues would blow away with a gust of wind, like crisp autumn leaves.

Lucky Seven by Joan Mitchell

 

Joan Mitchell in Her Studio

Garden Party by Joan Mitchell

Work by Joan Mitchell

Work by Joan Mitchell

Work by Joan Mitchell

 

Wassily Kandinsky (1866-1944) was Russian, and is credited as having been the first real abstract artist.  His earlier works echo in the vein of synesthesia: bold, unusual color combinations, dashes of color, and soft lines.

Schwabing with the Church of St. Ursula by Kandinsky, 1908.

 

 

As he began to experiment with his work, he claimed to have discovered abstraction by accident: he looked at one of his paintings upside-down.  His abstract work has unexpected and unique rhythms, and are mostly named after musical compositions.

 

Composition W by Kandinsky, 1939.

 

 

 

We are lucky to even read a little of Kandinsky’s synesthetic experience.  He described a trip back to Moscow below:

The sun melts all of Moscow down to a single spot that, like a mad tuba, starts all of the heart and all of the soul vibrating. But no, this uniformity of red is not the most beautiful hour. It is only the final chord of a symphony that takes every colour to the zenith of life that, like the fortissimo of a great orchestra, is both compelled and allowed by Moscow to ring out. – Kandinsky

Composition VII by Kandinsky, 1912

 

Looking at all these synethetic artists, I can’t help but wonder if artist and fashion designer Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979) had synesthesia, too.  Sonia, along with her husband Robert, developed a color theory called simultaneity – the sensation of movement when contrasting colors are placed side by side.  She also referred to her garments from the 1920s as robe poemes, or dress poems.  I’ll let you be the judge:

(FYI: Tissu is french for fabric)

 

 

Sketches by Sonia Delaunay, c. 1915.

 

 

Sonia Delaunay in her own design,

 

 

Robe Simultanee by Sonia Delaunay, 1913

 

Garments by Delaunay.

Abstract Diagonal Composition # 1733 by Sonia Delaunay. Gouache on paper.

 

 

Tissu simultane, 1928. Block-printed silk crepe de chine.

 

 

Model wearing a Delaunay coat, c. 1926

 

 

Bathing suit, c. 1924. Silk embroidery on wool jersey.

 

 

 

 

Model wearing a Delaunay swimsuit, 1929.

 

 

Models wearing Delaunay beachwear, 1928.

 

 

Tissu Simultane #193 by Sonia Delaunay, c. 1927 Block-printed cotton.

 

For more information on:

  • Sonia Delaunay, please visit the on-line exhibition of Color Moves: Art and Fashion by Sonia Delaunay.  It can also be seen in person at the Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum in New York until June 5th, 2011.  You can also watch this video:

 

 

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