Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet
April 20th, 2013

Augusta Auctions

Earlier last week, I took my class to see the preview of Augusta Auctions latest sale.  Twice a year, this auction house comes to New York, offering gorgeous fashion, textiles, and accessories that are de-accessioned from museum collections or consigned from private estates.

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Pursuing the selections was so much fun.  There were gorgeous dresses from every era spread out on racks and tables.  I loved this day dress from the 1930s.  The top stitching on the collar and sleeves was such an elegant touch.

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Every object could be handled, as long as you wore a white glove.  Auction previews are a great way to examine objects before they hit the block.  You can determine the condition and your budget.  If you are unable to attend when the lot is up for bidding, you can submit a phone bid.  No more wasting the entire day waiting for the lot of your dreams.  (New to auctions?  Keep in mind that every auction house has a buyer’s premium.  This means an extra percentage is added to your final bid.  These premiums range from 20% to 35% depending on the auction house.)

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There were also some fantastic dresses from the 1920s.  Their condition was really impeccable.  These dresses were carefully housed in a blue board box, and cushioned with tissue paper to preserve the shape.

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I just loved the hemline on this dress.

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This was another favorite!  The auction estimates were very reasonable.  I was really tempted to bid on a few things.  Who wouldn’t love a dress with beading like this?

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There were bins of ethnographic embroideries and textiles from around the world.  Seeing the quality and craftsmanship of historical textiles makes it so difficult to shop the contemporary market.  Just look at these hand embroidered flowers on this velvet cloth.

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The best part?  I ran into a friend I hadn’t seen in ages!  Giselle from Fashioning the Past was also at the fashion preview.  If you haven’t seen her blog, you should really check it out.

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January 21st, 2013

George Bellows & The Ashcan School

The George Bellows show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art really blew me away this weekend.  I worked at an art gallery for some time, and learned about the Ashcan School of painters.   Founded by Robert Henri (1865–1929) around 1900, this group of painters focused on depicting scenes as they were (Realism) instead of in the dreamy, staccato way of the American Impressionists.

Henri believed that painters needed to depict everyday subjects in an interesting and honest way: “What we need is more sense of the wonder of life, and less of this business of picture making.”  

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Summer Night, Riverside Drive by George Bellows, 1908.  Image courtesy of allpaintings.org

 

Members of the Ashcan School became instantly recognizable for their lavish use of black paint.  Black paint had pretty much been eliminated by the American Impressionist palette, although it was used heavily by the Old Masters like Rembrandt, Frans Hals, and Goya.  Contemporaries of the Ashcan school affectionally called them the “Revolutionary Black Gang” or the ” Ash Can Group” (hence the name).

 

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Stag at Sharkey’s by George Bellows, 1909.  Image courtesy of cleveland.about.com

George Bellows (1882-1925) was originally from Ohio.  He moved to New York to continue his study of painting.  Bellows met Henri shortly after arriving and started to study with him.  Henri encouraged Bellows to depict scenes of contemporary life, even if  the compositions and subjects challenge prevailing standards of taste. Bellows focused on impoverished immigrants in New York, especially children in “squalid and dangerous slums”.

 

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Cliff Dwellers by George Bellows, 1913.  Image courtesy of The Tenement Museum.

 

Bellows is really my favorite painter from the Ashcan School.  He has an amazing sense of value and color.  All of the paintings have so many harmonious colors, and really express a sense of light and dark.  The canvases are so luminous, they seem to have a radiant light source within.  One of my favorite paintings in the show was called Noon.  

Of course I’m partial to it because of all the blue paint, but you can definitely see how there are areas of light and dark.  The bridge and how it casts shadows over parts of the canvas, the dark areas with figures in the shade, and even the billowing smoke – just take a look at how masterfully they are all done:

 

 

1908 Noon oil on canvas 55.9 x 71.1 cm

 

 Noon by George Bellows, 1908.  

There were so many great depictions of New York City.  In addition to his sensitivity to color, Bellows was an amazing draftsman.  He carefully outlines shapes within the composition.  Almost all of the paintings have a balanced foreground, middle, and background.  And the subjects just seem to come alive, with all the care and detail with which they are painted.

 

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New York by George Bellows, 1911.

But really, the best part of seeing all of these paintings was the opportunity to look at Bellows’s brushstrokes.  It’s really difficult to see in photographs and images.  That’s why going to museums and galleries are so important.  There is a really, tangible experience of the painting that you just don’t get by looking at on the internet or in a book.  As someone that paints, it’s a special learning tool to see how other people push paint around the canvas.

 

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The Palisades by George Bellows, 1909.  Image courtesy of the Tate.

As I looked at certain paintings, I noticed that Bellows directed the paint to follow the specific object he was painting.  So for example, the water is painted horizontally and the tree is painted vertically.  Take a look at smoke in the upper right hand corner.  It’s really easy to see that Bellows swirls the paint around to mimic the way smoke billows in the wind.  So pretty!

 

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Snow Capped River by George Bellows, 1911.  Image courtesy of the Telfair Museum.

Snow Capped River was another favorite.  You MUST see it in person.  The image above doesn’t even hint at what a beautiful work of art it really is.  Bellows also changed the thickness of paint within his compositions.  Certain areas are very flat, with thin layers of paint, and others are thick and impasto.

The George Bellows exhibit is at the Metroplitan Museum of Art until February 18th, 2013.  Don’t miss it – the show is included with general admission!

 

 

 

 

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December 18th, 2012

Franz Kline

Last week, I went to Franz Kline: Coal & Steel.  Abstract Expressionism is one of my favorite types of painting.  Generally, I think of this movement being based around New York.  But Franz Kline (1910-1962) was from Northeastern Pennsylvania.

 

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Mahoning by Franz Kline, 1956. Oil and paper collage on canvas. 80 x 100 in. (203.2 x 254 cm).  Image courtesy of The Franz Kline Estate via The Whitney Museum.
Kline was best know for his large scale minimalist paintings.  The canvases were black and white, with large gestural brush strokes.   I always imagined the works were influenced by Asian art – particularly Japanese calligraphy.
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I also assumed that Kline was influenced by other abstract painters.  However, curator Dr. Robert S. Mattison argues that these black and white paintings were influenced by Kline’s memories of Pennsylvania.  Considering that Kline’s hometown of Wilkes-Barre was in the heart of coal country, I see this connection immediately.

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Untitled by Franz Kline, 1957.  Image courtesy of The Franz Kline Estate via the New York Times.
The large canvases have a gritty feeling.  The stark contrast between the white and black give the idea of something being dirtied.  Coal mining produces a layer of soot that covers everything.  Mining towns in Pennsylvania were covered in layers of coal dust, and many miners died from black lung diseased (caused by breathing in large quantities of coal dust).

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Architectural and industrial references can also be seen in this large abstract paintings.  Kline studied as a draughtsman in London in the late 1930s.  Knowing this, you can start to see simplified lines of buildings and other manmade landscapes.  Above, I see a bridge running from left to right, supported by large pillars and support beams. This connection to architecture is further strengthened by examples of Kline’s earlier representation work.

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Pennsylvania Landscape by Franz Kline, 1948. Image courtesy of The Morning Call.
Before Kline joined the Abstract Expressionist group that congregated in New York, he painted landscapes from Northeastern Pennsylvania.  I grew up not far from this area, and these scenes are so familiar.  Small towns, built with wood and steel, in a picturesque landscape.  The natural environment is dotted with signs of man: telephone poles, cables, train tracks, and bridges.  There are so many small towns, just like the picture above.  They housed steel, coal, and textile workers.  I’m not sure what these towns were like in Kline’s day, but they still echo a similar feeling.  They’re isolated, a bit neglected, and now even poorer as the major industries that supported the towns have been outsourced.
Chatham Square by Franz Kline, 1948.  Image courtesy of Wikipaintings.
Childhood memories definitely impact what you’re drawn to in the future.  Even the painting of Chatham Square above looks like it could be a small town in Pennsylvania.  An entrance to a factory or covered walkway leading to a train.  It has the same sort of composition as so many “townscapes” in Pennsylvania, even though it was painting in New York.
The vertical orange shapes that make up the covered staircase and crisscrossed gray trellis underneath the bridge were painted so carefully.   They seem to be replicated in more abstract forms in this later  Untitled painting by Kline:
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Untitled by Franz Kline, 1953.  Image courtesy of Wikipaintings.
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Chief Train by Franz Kline, 1942.  Image courtesy of The Allentown Art Museum via Art & Coin TV
There seems to be a strong connection to all of Kline’s work, even though his style changed.  Chief Train (above) shows a locomotive.  Le Gros (below) seems to be a closeup for the train track, no?
Le Gros by Franz Kline, 1961.  Image courtesy of Flickr
 
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July 26th, 2012

William Merritt Chase

When people ask me what I went to school for, they are surprised by how much I know about art history.  Studying fashion requires consulting many primary sources, like paintings, books, and magazines since garments often do not survive the test of time.  Clothing and accessories are fragile. Clothing was not so readily available until after the Industrial Revolution, so many garments were worn and altered by the owners until they fell apart or were outmoded.
Written descriptions, paintings, and photographs are very important to studying fashion history. In fact, many paintings can be accurately dated by the clothing silhouette, accessories, and hairstyles that the subjects wear.  But it’s a real treat when a garment survives that can be linked to paintings from the time period.
One of my favorite portrait artists in William Merritt Chase (1849-1916).  He created magical paintings of women from the 1880s-1910s that captured what was worn.  Many of Chase’s portraits also give important hints to how the clothing affected posture and movement.  His subjects all appear exceedingly fashionable, too!  I couldn’t help but notice that the women seem to have been dressed in the best couture, like Charles Frederick Worth.
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In the Studio Corner by William Merritt Chase, c. 1881.  Oil on canvas.  Image courtesy of wikipaintings.org
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Tea gown by Charles Frederick Worth, c. 1880.  Image courtesy of http://metmuseum.org
Chase was born in Indiana, and later moved to New York to paint.  He was always willing to grow as an artist, and used different elements from painting styles, like Tonalism (dark or neutral hues used to paint the atmosphere or mist), Impressionism (visible brush strokes, depiction of light and its changing qualities), and Realism (depicting the subject exactly as it is).  His willingness to learn and adapt made him a revered teacher.
What I think made him an interesting painter, aside from sheer skill, was his ability to render the details of clothing.  Garments from this time period are in many museum collections.  The similarities between Chase’s portraits and the surviving garments are very strong.  Take a look:
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Portrait of a Lady in Pink by William Merritt Chase, c. 1888.
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Evening gown by J.P.  Worth, c. 1900.  Image courtesy of http://metmuseum.org
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Kate Freemen Clack by William Merritt Chase, c. 1902.  Image courtesy of bjws.blogspot.com
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Advertisment for shirtwaists, c. 1901.
1888c The Blue Kimono (Girl in Blue Kimono) oil on canvas 145 x 112 cm
The Blue Kimono by William Merritt Chase, c. 1888.  Oil on canvas.  Image courtesy of
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Woman’s Kimono Dressing Gown with Sash, late 19th- early 20th century.  Image courtesy of http://collectionsonline.lacma.org
 
1889c Spring Flowers (Peonies) pastel on paper 122 x 122 cm
Spring Flowers by William Merritt Chase, c. 1889.  Pastel on paper.  Image courtesy of http://poulwebb.blogspot.com
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Kimono, c.1800-1940.  Image courtesy of http://metmuseum.org
1890 Girl in a Japanese Costume oil 63 x 41 cm
Girl in a Japanese Costume by William Merritt Chase, c. 1890.  Oil on canvas.  Image courtesy of http://poulwebb.blogspot.com
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Kimono dressing gown by Iida Takashimaya, 1906.  Image courtesy of http://www.kci.or.jp
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I Think I am Ready Now by William Merritt Chase, c. 1883.  Oil on canvas.  Image courtesy of askart.com
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 Dress by Mme. Hardy, c. 1877.  Image courtesy of http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu

 

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December 1st, 2011

Teas the Season…

Holiday gift-giving can be stressful.  Those special people in our lives can be impossible to shop for.  What do you give to the person that has everything?  Or the family member that “doesn’t want anything“?  The rapidly approaching deadline is leaving your head and wallet hurting.  My advice?  Give the gift of tea.  It is unique, relaxing, and economic.  And Spices and Tease in Manhattan has the perfect variety.

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A variety of loose teas available at Spices and Tease

 

A few weeks ago, I went to the Upper West Side location.  The abundance of exotic, brightly hued teas rivaled a painters palette.  I was dazzled by the lush colors.  Each selection had a delicious scent, and I enjoyed deliberating which tea to try first.  It was such a fun experience, and I hadn’t even tasted it yet!

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Delicious dried rose and hibiscus tea

 

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Star Anise

Loose tea aside, Spices and Tease offer all of tea accoutrements needed.  They are displayed quite artfully, and give the store a zen atmosphere.  This atmosphere just reinforces the fact that drinking tea is a great way to unwind.  And I suspect everyone on your gift list could use more relaxation.  Why not treat them to what they really need this year?

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Tea accoutrements provide a zen atmosphere

 

As the name suggests, spices are also available for purchase.  But my favorite surprise were the handmade soaps from Marseille.  There were a dozen available scents, each deliciously fragrant.

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Handmade soap from Marseille makes a perfect gift

Gift sets are available, allowing you to sample  6 different teas.  Make sure to get yours before the holiday.

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March 29th, 2010

On the Train

This short story was a journal entry I wrote based on events that really occurred.

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Sitting on the train, I take out my book and start reading.  It’s rush hour on Monday.  I’d like to get home as quickly as possible.  Reading makes the trip go by so quickly.  My mind is racing with thoughts of the weekend, what happened at work, and relationships.  It’s hard to focus on what I’m reading.  I continue with the book, hoping to obtain a calmer state of mind.

Reading on the Train by

Reading on the train by Edward B. Gordon

A man tries to access the seat next to me.  There is a woman positioned in front of the seat, oblivious to the man while listening to her iPod.  The man says excuse me, but the woman does not move.  The man explodes into an angry tirade:

You should talk those damn things out of your ear so you can hear what’s going on around you.  I’m sick of people like you, blasting that music and tuning out the world.  You’re in your own little world there, and you could get killed and wouldn’t know it.  I tried to warn a guy he was going to get hit by a car the other day and he couldn’t hear me because he had those damn things in his ears.  All that for what, music?  So you should stop looking at your phone and turn the music off because your life might depend on it.

Death by the iPod. NSW Police pedestrian awareness campaign.

The man continues yelling for three stops, which seems like an eternity.  The woman is frightened.  She replies sheepishly, “I can hear you“, which sends the man into a fury.

I sigh.  My thoughts again drift from my book to this conversation.  In a way, the man is right.  Living in this city, we try to make our own personal time by listening to music, reading – distracting ourselves from what is going on around us.  But I wish he wasn’t yelling.  The man starts calming down, saying he doesn’t mean to take it out on the woman, but that he is sick of people not paying attention.  I start thinking of the people that don’t pay attention to me.  I sigh again, knowing that it is useless to think of those people.  I wish something would happen so that I could change my thoughts, some catalyst.  Maybe if I keep reading, some other thoughts will come.

110th Street subway stop

I glance up to see what stop I’m on, 110th Street.  All of the sudden, a woman sits next to me and says, “I really need your advice”.  I look up from my book and instinctively say: “Ok”. Words tumble out of her mouth:

I don’t know what to do.  There are warrants out for me.  I can’t stay in one place.  I’ve been moving from hotel to hotel, and I can’t afford to live.  I can’t work, I can’t make money, and I can’t buy food.

She is gasping for breath, her eyes narrow in pain.  She is clutching black plastic garbage back, which I assume are some possessions she’s managed to cart around with her.

I don’t know if I should turn myself in or not, but I don’t have any money, I don’t have a place to stay.  And I –

It’s difficult for me to follow the words she is saying.  At first, I’m confused and think she is trying to ask me for money.  But I look right into her eyes.  She is young, in her mid twenties.  Her skin is smooth, dark like chocolate.  She has some black eyeliner around her almond shaped eyes, all of which are framed by her thick bangs.

Her words wash over me and fill me with sadness. I interrupt her and say:

Wait, what do you mean turn yourself in?  What are you asking?

She gasps for breath again.  Taking a deep inhale, she tries to calm herself down.  Focusing, she explains:

There are warrants for my arrest.  And basically, I’m asking . . . if you think I should turn myself in?

Regret and sorrow

I look at her and feel like my heart is leaping out of my chest. Her face is intense with fear, regret, and sorrow.  Whatever has happened she deeply regrets it.  Her life has been taken from her, living in the shadows and hoping not to get caught.  Tears start to well up in my eyes – what can I say to this woman?  I cannot judge her for what she has done, she is already aware that she is wrong.  Even though she is free, she is imprisoned in fear and remorse.  I know my face has such a concerned look, and without even thinking I ask:

Do you think it’s the right thing to do?

She looked down, and her whole body sank down a few inches.  She nodded her head and whispered yes.  I respond, “Well, then you already have your answer” almost ready to cry.  I patted her on the shoulder and said “Good luck”.

The train stops at 116th Street.  She picks up her black bag, and walks to the exit of the car.  I watch her the whole way.  As she gets off the car, I see her burst into tears.  The doors close, and the train leaves the station.  I can’t read the book anymore.  All the thoughts I was thinking before have left my mind.  Did I tell the woman what she needed to hear?  She reached out to me in a time of need.  I think my words were exactly what she needed to hear.  But I feel so sad.  I can’t stop thinking of what is happening to her . . . even now.

Pensive by Orhan Alpaslan

To purchase Reading on the Train, please visit edwardbgordon.blogspot.com

Thanks, Edward and Ingrid! :)


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