Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet
March 18th, 2013

Menswear: Vintage Pendleton

 

 

March is such an interesting month.  Not quite winter, not quite spring.  As soon as I pull out some of my spring outfits after a series of warm days, it seems to snow.  It’s that time of year when your entire wardrobe needs to be available – and layers are a great idea.

I was outside running in Central on Friday before meeting my friend Ashley for lunch.  It was definitely a cold day!  As I was literally running over to meet her, she called me.  She said there was a man standing outside with one of the best vintage coats she’d ever seen.  Ashley was definitely right!

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Andrew was kind enough to talk fashion with us.  This beautiful vintage coat has a great silhouette – there are so many great construction details:  deeply notched lapel, the buckled leather trimmed tabs at the cuff, and matching brown leather buttons.

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(Here is a great chart on lapel types for you, gentlemen!)

 

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The wool used for the coat is also really beautiful.  You can see that it was woven with high quality yarns.  There is lots of color variation, and the slubs in the yarn give it such a great texture.  See how the surface is slightly uneven?  That is because the yarn thickness varies.  The thicker areas are called slubs, and definitely make the fabric more interesting.  Don’t you just want to run your had over the surface?  (Keep this in mind while shopping.  It’s generally a great purchase if people want to touch your clothing!)

 

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The back has a single vent that can be buttoned.  This is a detail that I just adore.  It makes the coat very functional.  Unbuttoning the vent makes walking around and moving easier, but also lets more cold air in.  Buttoned, the silhouette is more formfitting and warm.  What a wonderful detail!

 

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Ashley and I were just dying to know who the maker of the coat was.  Andrew said it was vintage Pendleton!  I learned a lot about Pendleton by reading The Vintage Traveler.  Pendleton is a woolen mill based in Portland, Oregon.  The company is family owned and operated, and is over 140 years old.  Thomas Kay was an English weaver that came to America in the 1860s and eventually opened his own mill in Portland.  You can read more about the company’s history here.

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Andrew definitely layered his look to adjust to the drastic temperature change that day.  He had on a hat, gloves, and a great wool sweater.  Turns out, Andrew’s sweater was also Pendleton.  This is a great label to search for if you’re into the vintage and secondhand market.  You can, of course, purchase new Pendleton products.  I have the boots they produced with Doc Martens!

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February 13th, 2013

Behind the Scenes at Remedy

It’s so much fun when your best friend is a fashion designer!  You get to see the entire evolution of the design process.  And it’s even more fun when one of her models can’t be in the show and you have to fill in!  Ashley McAleavy of Remedy Designs is who I’m referring to, and this post is all about my experience backstage at her F/W 2013 show.

 

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Remedy is a line that focuses on sustainability.  Ashley is really committed to creating fashion that is environmentally friendly, beautiful, and completely sourced and finished right here in America.  I’ve been lucky enough to attend a collection preview before.  (New to my site?  Please take a look at Remedy: Collection Preview)  I was really blown away by her latest collection.  It was so sophisticated.  When I arrived for hair and makeup, I wanted to wear every look!

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Tawni Michelle Landford, left, applying makeup before the show.

There was a full hair and makeup team.  I was so lucky to have the lead makeup artist, Tawni Michelle Landford of Dramatizon Makeup Design and Kristine Murillo style me.  By the time they were finished with me, I felt like I could be a fairy princess on the set of Lord of the Rings!  Ladies, if you have an important event and need hair and makeup, DEFINITELY contact these two talented ladies!  Their artistry and vision is beyond words.

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Kristine Murillo styling a model before the show.

I can’t tell you how pleasant both Kristine and Tawni were to work with.  I had my hair done first by Kristine.  She was so kind!  She was careful to ask what I was comfortable doing with my hair, which way I like to part it, and so on.  If you know me at all, I have just about given up on my hair.  It has a mind of it’s own.  I told her that she was the professional, so she could have her way with my unruly mane.  She definitely worked her magic, creating a beautiful coil of braids around the top part of my hair.  Then she curled the ends.

Next, I was off to Tawni who was beyond stellar.  She was really gentle in applying the makeup.  She made me feel so comfortable, telling me stories and making up laugh.  We had a blast talking about everything from the makeup, fashion week, to the movie Desperately Seeking Susan.  Tawni is so creative, and designed the beautiful metallic foil look.  She made sure that each of model had a slightly different variation to enhance our individual features.

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I think the most difficult adjustment was being the in front of the camera!  Van Truong was both photographing and shooting video footage.  He took the photos of Tawni working on my makeup, which made me giggle even more.  I was determined to Instagram photos live from the show, so I snapped one of Van, too.  The photos that Van showed me were absolutely gorgeous.  Please visit his website to see more of his work!

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Then, Ashley pulled my look and helped me get dressed.  I absolutely ADORED this outfit!  It was a black sequin skirt with a grosgrain ribbon waistband.  She had transformed really lackluster dress from the 1980s into the beautiful skirt below.  The corset top was made from white ultra suede from pillows, and trimmed in black ribbon along the boning.  The level of skill and detail in each of these pieces was definitely couture.  And I felt so beautiful!  I was so happy to be wearing Ashley’s design.

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Then, all of the models lined up backstage.

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Ashley talked about each of the pieces in the collection.  She explained what each garment had been before, and how she transformed it to what we saw on the models.  It was so interesting to hear the process.  She talked about spray dyeing silk, to altering beaded dresses, to transforming the ultra suede pillows into a corset.  Now that is creativity and innovation!  I’m in awe of her talent and vision.

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And isn’t she pretty, too?  I loved her black dress.  Of course, it’s one of her own designs.

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There were so many fabulous dresses.  One of my other favorites was a black jersey dress that had hand applied Swarovski crystals down the sleeves, and  closed with a metal and crystal tie back.  See below:

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Still, I loved the outfit Ashley had me wear.  I hope no one bought it yet, because I totally want to add it to my wardrobe!  Be sure to visit Remedy on the web to place your orders.  And remember that Ashley can custom make pieces just for you.

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December 5th, 2012

Bag Envy

The “IT” bag.  “IT” always seems to change too fast for me.  Handbags are the breadwinners of most design houses.  And it’s easy to see why when each new design costs upwards of $1,200.  My tastes are much more extravagant than my wallet allows.  I tend to like French designs.  My one treasure is the Chloe Paraty bag, which was a gift.  For the past 2 years, I’ve been OBSESSED with the Celine Phantom bag.  It’s so perfect it brings me to tears.  I love the shape, contrasting leathers and colors – it’s just so classic and versatile.  Much coveted, but the price tag just doesn’t allow me to take the plunge and purchase it.
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Celine Phantom bag in black leather, blue python, and blue suede.  Image courtesy of Spotted Fashion.
However, I found a great alternative.  A few days ago, Deanna stopped by The Baum School of Art.  I spotted her gorgeous handbag and swooned.  I nearly ran over to her and asked her all about it.
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This brown leather tote is so classic and sturdy.  The shape is wonderful – perfect for storing laptops, tablets, and books along with the other daily necessities.  It’s large enough to use for work, but not so big that you’ll throw everything but the kitchen sink inside.  (Something I am quite guilty of with large handbags.)  The bag is also structured enough that it won’t tip over or lose it’s shape.

 

 

 

 

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I was admiring the quality and practically interrogating poor Deanna about it.  The straps and stitching made me think of the Phantom bag, but honestly I thought this bag was more interesting.  Where did she get this amazing bag?  Was it French?  Maybe Italian?

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Much to my surprise, it was made by none other than L.L. Bean.  Yes, the manufacturer of those monogrammed backpacks everyone had in grade school.  Who knew the brand had such an elegant side?

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L.L. Bean Signature is a more sophisticated product line.  The offer updated classics, referencing their design heritage while remaining versatile enough for contemporary use.  The company started in 1911, when avid outdoorsman  Leon Leonwood (L.L.) Bean returned from a hunting trip with cold, damp feet.  He wanted quality shoes that would keep his feet dry.   With the assistance of a local cobbler, Bean designed shoes with leather uppers to waterproof rubber boots.  Thus creating a comfortable, functional boot for active people, L.L. Bean launched his company.

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Of course, this bag is unavailable on their site.  Here’s to hoping one will surface on the internet.  Or maybe Santa will bring me one?

 

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October 4th, 2012

John Little & Wesley Simpson Textiles

Two days ago, I received an email from a reader.  Laura had recently purchased this original textile design by John Little.  (I’ve written several posts on Little, one on his abstract art, the other on his textile designs)  When I first saw Little’s abstract paintings, I felt a connection to his work.  I couldn’t place exactly what it was.

 

Then, I read his biography and discovered he had been a textile designer during the Great Depression and throughout his career as a painter.  There is a vast difference between Little’s abstract paintings and textile designs.  His textiles are more representational (i.e. they depict recognizable objects, figures, or have some sort of pattern).  Laura’s purchase is a great example of this.  Entitled “Personalities“, it seems like a chess set came to life, with each of the game pieces expressing a part of their character.

 

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Personalities by John Little.  Image courtesy of Laura Richardson.

 

All of Little’s textile designs that I’ve seen are gouache on paper.  So, what does that mean?  Gouache is a paint that is similar to watercolor, but is heavier and more opaque.  It tends to dry in a slightly different value that when it is wet.  So since the color can change, painting with gouache is usually done in one sitting.  (If you tried to resume painting after gouache has dried, it can be difficult to match the color.  You may think you have mixed a perfect match, only to find that the fresh paint will dry as a different value.)

 

In terms of art market value, works on paper are “worth” much less than oil paintings.  This is because paper is extremely fragile.  Paper tends to deteriorate rapidly over time, especially if the paper is exposed to an acidic environment or one that has a great variation in humidity.  Think about old magazines and newspapers that have been stored carelessly in an attic or basement.  They become fragile and damage easily.  Oil paintings tend to be more durable.  (Oil paint never really dries.  This type of paint dries in layers.  So even when the surface dries to the touch, the layers underneath are still wet.  It takes over 20 years for the oil to fully solidify!)

 

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Personalities by John Little.  Image courtesy of Laura Richardson.

 

This is just an explanation of determining market value, and not the significance of the work.  To me, Little’s textile designs are more interesting than his oil paintings.  There were lots of abstract painters during the Post War period, doing similar things.  And yes, there were a lot of artists crossing over to textile designs after World War II.

 

But somehow, the textile designs communicate more about the artist.  As much as I like Little’s oil paintings, them seem to echo the abstract expressionist movement than reveal something about Little’s “personality”.   Laura’s textile design shows so much about Little: he was creative; he had an active imagination; he could create stories out of common objects; and he had an interesting use of color, shape, and pattern.  You might not get these ideas from his painting “Tropic of Cancer

 

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Tropic of Cancer by John Little.  Image courtesy of AskArt.com

 

Of course, my curiosity got the best of me!  I looked around a bit more, and found some more examples of John Little’s textile designs.  They are currently being sold by the Gordon Harrison Gallery.

 

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Textile Design by John Little.  Image courtesy of Gordon Harrison Gallery.

 

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Textile Design by John Little.  Image courtesy of Gordon Harrison Gallery.

And if the textile excitement hadn’t been enough, I was contacted by another one of my readers, Linda, after writing about my own scarf by Wesley Simpson.  My scarf is called “Downtown” and has a repeat of a furniture store and apartment building.

 

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Downtown by Wesley Simpson.  

 

John Little and Wesley Simpson had a lot in common.  During the Great Depression, Simpson established his own business as a textile converter.  This means that designs were produced in-house or via freelance artists, and then the actual printing was contracted to outside factories.  Simpson was the chief stylist of his company, which came to be known as Wesley Simpson Custom Fabrics, Inc.  The company operated from 1932 to 1950.  (John Little started a wallpaper and textile printing company during the Great Depression.  He ran the John Little Studios: Fabric and Wallpaper Design until 1950, and later collaborated with Greeff, an English textile company.)

 

Linda had owned these Wesley Simpson scarves for years, but was never able to find any information on him or his company.  She reached out to me and showed me her BEAUTIFUL scarves, designed for Simpson by Marcel Vertes :

 

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Images courtesy of Linda Chapple.
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Image courtesy of Linda Chapple.

 

I’ll be writing a follow-up post this week about Marcel Vertes.  He was just too important not to dedicate an entire post in his honor.  Stay tuned!
A special thanks to Laura Richardson and Linda Chapple for reading and sharing their fantastic collections!
Linda also sells vintage online:

 

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September 25th, 2012

IFB Recap: Julep & Nail Polish Giveaway!

The IFB Recap continues.  And it also continues this week’s theme of painting.  I’ve mentioned there were some killer sponsors at the conference, like Lockerz and Boy Meets Girl.  Julep was equally as amazing.  A nail care company based in Seattle, Julep came to the IFB conference and set up a pop-up manicure station.  The offered some amazing colors, so of course I waited in line.  Who can say no to a free manicure?  (Keep reading, because you can get a free set of polishes yourself!)
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Certainly not me . . .
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The brand has a really great philosophy, one that appealed to the way I view life and art:
It’s (Julep) about the shared discovery of things that make us look good and feel great. For us, nail color is at the intersection of beauty and fashion. It allows grown-up women to play, to step out of their comfort zone a little bit and experiment with color and style. It helps to unleash the inner artist in all of us.
Other major pluses?  Julep nail polish has some serious staying power.  After my manicure, I had no visible chips or cracks for 5 days.  That’s impressive for me, since I do all kinds of things that sabotage a manicure.  All of the polishes are free of the nasty carcinogens formaldehyde, formaldehyde resin, toluene and DBP – found in many commercial polishes available.  But, in my opinion, the best part of Julep is in the fine print: all of their products are MADE IN AMERICA.  I love companies that keep our dollars domestic!
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Julep offers a subscription-based service called Julep Maven.  Each month, new polish colors and maintenance products are offered.  You’re not committed to purchasing every month and can cancel at any time.  The coolest part?  Julep is allowing me to give away a free nail package to one of my lucky readers!  

I just loved the Classic with a Twist set.  It comes with a super rich pedicure cream, aptly called The Best Pedi Creme Ever.  If you can’t wait that long, visit their site and enter the promo code MONICADMURGIA and you’ll get a special discounted introductory boxed set.  Click below to enter to enter the free set via Rafflecopter.  Happy painting!

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August 30th, 2012

Vintage Doylestown

When I’m quiet, you know that I’ve gotten myself into something interesting.  This week, I have several writing deadlines.  But I’ve just been dying to share a great place with all of you, so I tore myself away from work.

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Shopping local and supporting American entrepreneurs are two of the  most important things you can do to improve the economy.  So when I go shopping, I try my best to do both.  It’s so easy to do at Vintage Doylestown, a great store in the town where I work.

 

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Owner Debi Seltzer has some amazingly cute items.  She constantly offers new merchandise.  She  attends auctions and estate sales weekly to refresh her inventory, so you’ll never see the same thing twice.  I stopped in a few days ago, and spotted this amazing straw tote.  I had to have it!  The colors are perfect for my wardrobe transition from summer to fall .
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I also found the perfect gift for my mom.  She was having a bad week, so I thought I’d try to make her smile with a pair of earrings.  Presents have a funny way of making people happy.  The best part was, aside from being chic, they were very affordable.
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What I really loved about my last trip to Vintage Doylstown was Debi’s amazing gift wrapping.  She has a similar philosophy to me: reduce waste, support local businesses, and do it all stylishly.  She uses old mismatched earrings to adorn the recycled, made in America boxes.
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What a great idea!  A re-purposed bow and reusable box. Doesn’t it make you want to buy a present for someone you love?
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Even if you’re not in Doylestown, you can see what Vintage Doylestown has to offer.  Like their Facebook page and take a peek.

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July 18th, 2012

Jean Dessès American Collection for I.M. Bagedonow

Hearing from someone that reads my blog is always exciting.  This particular post is about a Jean Dessès suit, owned by my reader Jeanette.  The suit originally belonged to a woman that worked for Kodak, and traveled the world for work.  It still has the original hangtags from Sibley, Lindsay & Curr Co.

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 Jean Dessès Exclusive American Collection for I.M. Bagedonow.   Image courtesy of Jeanette Stevens Commanda.
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 Jean Dessès Exclusive American Collection for I.M. Bagedonow.   Image courtesy of Jeanette Stevens Commanda.
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 Jean Dessès Exclusive American Collection for I.M. Bagedonow.   Image courtesy of Jeanette Stevens Commanda.

Sible, Lindsay & Curr Co., established in 1868, was a department store located in Rochester, NY. During the 1950s, Sibley’s expanded and opened branch locations through America. This Postwar expansion included major American cities like Henrietta, Webster, Newark, Irondequoit, Syracuse, Victor, and Fayetteville.  The store was acquired by the Associated Dry Goods Corporation in 1957, and then by May Department Stores in 1986.

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Sibley, Lindsay & Curr Co. building on Main Street, built 1905.  Image courtesy of http://departmentstoremuseum.blogspot.com  

 

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 Jean Dessès Exclusive American Collection for I.M. Bagedonow.   Image courtesy of Jeanette Stevens Commanda.
Jeanette was interested in learning more about Jean Dessès, and an approximate date that the suit was made.  At first look, I dated the suit to the 1950s, because the shoulders are not exaggerated, and the length of the skirt is long. (Silhouettes from the 1940s tend to have heavy shoulder pads and shorter skirts, due to the rationing of textiles during the war.)
Aside from the silhouette, the suit would have been produced after World War II.  Many Parisian designers licensed designs to American manufacturers after the war.  This helped many designers revive their couture houses, which had suffered greatly during the German occupation.   Licensing deals also helped couturiers avoid their styles being pirated.  American manufacturers would have purchased a license to create a design, and then produced the garments in the country.  This practice helped to keep jobs in America.  Special labels, like the ones below, indicate that the garments were produced in America.
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 Jean Dessès Exclusive American Collection for I.M. Bagedonow.   Image courtesy of Jeanette Stevens Commanda.

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 Jean Dessès Exclusive American Collection for I.M. Bagedonow.   Image courtesy of Jeanette Stevens Commanda.

 

Jean Dessès (1904-1970) studied law before turning to fashion design in the 1930s.  In 1937, he founded his own salon on avenue George V in Paris.  Dessès created gowns for European royalty and wealthy clients.  He was fascinated with draping, and often made gowns that referenced classical Greek sculptures.  He also favored an architectural silhouette for his garments.
In 1948, Dessès created the American Collection, which was sold in the US directly through wholesalers. (Source)   (I.M. Bagedonow was the manufacturer, although I was unable to find much information about the company.)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art also has a suit from Dessès American Collection.   This suit is gray wool, and dated to 1953.  The image below gives you an idea of what Jeanette’s suit would look like on a form.  The Met also gives a great description of the design:
This suit from 1953 is unique, most notably in the construction of the skirt. The draping of the front panel is consistent with the designer’s technique and is typical of the period. While the suit is well-tailored to the silhouette, the draping at the front panel adds emphasis to the waist.
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Jean Dessès Exclusive American Collection for I.M. Bagedonow.   Image courtesy of  http://www.metmuseum.org
Thank you for sharing your beautiful find, Jeanette.  And thank you for reading!
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June 20th, 2012

(Re)purposeful

Yesterday, I wrote about the importance of buying American-made products and supporting local businesses.  The theme continues today!

This week, I was visiting a friend and stumbled upon the newly opened Harlem Wine Gallery.  What really caught my eye as I walked by was the artwork by Juan Carlos Pinto.  I decided to stop in and take a look.

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Art by Juan Carlos Pinto. Image courtesy of the Harlem Wine Gallery.

Pinto is a native Guatemalan who has been living in New York for the last 10 years.   He uses old Metro cards and maps to create collage art.  Each work depicts a scene from the city or a masterfully constructed portrait.

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Art by Juan Carlos Pinto. Image courtesy of the Harlem Wine Gallery.

Pinto’s artist statement describes his use of such a unique media:

Pinto’s use of plastic is unique and pulsates with hidden significance.  The idea of using these non-biodegradable cards is to reinforce recycling and prolonging its use indefinitely while providing the artist with a source free material. It is also a way of reminding us about the danger this material can cause if left to seep into the earth.

He even uses the Metro cards for his signature.  What a great way to re-purpose discarded plastic.

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Art by Juan Carlos Pinto. Note his signature. Image courtesy of the Harlem Wine Gallery.

Gallery owner Ken Forte was very friendly, and chatted with me about the concept of his new business.  He wants to support local artists and build a neighborhood community that appreciates the arts.  As time passes, different local artists will be exhibited in the space.

It is also such a interesting way to get the community interested in art.  You may stop for a bottle of wine, but leave with new friends and a great piece of art.

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Art by Juan Carlos Pinto. Image courtesy of the Harlem Wine Gallery.

Pinto’s artwork is available for purchase through the Harlem Wine Gallery.  Be sure to make a visit to the location (752 St. Nicholas Ave) or call 212-281-9463.

New to buying art?  Proper etiquette is to  ALWAYS buy from the gallery.  Never approach the artist directly.    Galleries spend a lot of money publicizing the artist, renting the space, and covering the additional overhead of the business.   Buying from the gallery supports a local business AND the artist at the same time.

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Art by Juan Carlos Pinto. Image courtesy of the Harlem Wine Gallery.

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Art by Juan Carlos Pinto. Image courtesy of the Harlem Wine Gallery.

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May 4th, 2012

Dressing Room Confessions: Dressing Room Not Required

Sometimes, all your wardrobe needs can be met with a new accessory.  This is precisely what happened when I found this vintage Kodak camera case.   It makes a really fun new-to-me purse!

 

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Rotating a smaller purse into your daily life is better for your back and shoulders.  Some of my bigger handbags get so heavy, and I just add more and more items inside.  This smaller bag made me edit my items down the essentials.  The result?  A much lighter bag!

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The best part?  The case is embossed MADE IN USA on the bottom.

Dressing room confession: I will always spend a little bit extra on an item if it is made in the USA!

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