Jan
23
2012
Fashion is such an integral part of my life that I find my outfit selections reflect whatever is happening to me. A few weeks ago, I went to an art gallery. Since I was somewhere “artsy”, I decided to dress that way. My pick was this cotton sheath dress in a conversational print, with a matching chiffon peplum.

Vintage dress in a conversational print.

Detail of dress.
Conversational prints are simply fabrics with designs that can start a conversation. While the idea is as old as designing fabrics, there was a surge in popularity during the 1950s. The fabric used for this dress also mirrors the trend in art for Abstract Expressionism, which appears after WWII. Abstract Expressionism is non-representational (ie: it doesn’t look like anything) and emphasizes a subconscious, spontaneous application of paint. Abstract Expressionist work is quite varied, but generally the focus is on color. (For more on the issue of color, you might want to read my previous posts, Synesthesia in Art and Fashion and Color Semiotics.)
My outfit did spark a conversation, and the gallery owner told me all about an artist named Leonard Nelson. He showed me this painting, Les Competiteurs by Nelson, which uses colors very similar to my dress.

Les Competiteurs by Leonard Nelson. Image courtesy of GratzGallery.com
Leonard Nelson (1912-1993) was exhibiting work with famous American Abstract Expressionist painters like Jackson Pollock and Mark Rothko. He has been obscured from art history because of his choice to work in Philadelphia, and not New York. Les Competiteurs is one of Nelson’s earlier works, and a bit derivative of Picasso. After a bit of research, I’m admittedly a fanatic of his later works – fields of color.

Colorfield (N9A) by Leonard Nelson, 1976. Oil on Canvas, 48" x 72.5". Private collection. Image courtesy of the book Leonard Nelson by Sam Hunter.
I found it a bit funny that Nelson is classified as an Abstract Expressionist. To me, his work seems so realistic. The fields of color look like framed views of nature. Colorfield (N9A) looks a lot like dandelions in a meadow.

Flowery Meadow by Christel B. Image courtesy of deviantart.com
Nelson was inspired by nature and its beauty. His ability to capture the natural landscape in an abstract form was poetic. Even when he spoke about the act of creating, it sounds transcendental:
My paintings must be exciting, and they must be beautiful. I am very, very definitely involved in the creation of beauty. I like to think I work in isolation, but I don’t. I don’t take my easel and go out and paint the scene . . . the scene gets inside of me.
So by painting landscapes, the landscapes become part of the soul. I feel that way when I look at his paintings, anyway. Alma Night certainly looks like water during sunset:

Alma Night by Leonard Nelson, 1979. Oil on canvas, 72" x 92". Collection of Mr. & Mrs. Carmen Romeo of Valley Forge, PA. Image courtesy of the book Leonard Nelson by Sam Hunter.

Brome Lake at Night. Image courtesy of wallpaper1080hd.com
The most interesting thing happened to me after I learned about Leonard Nelson. While I was walking my dog, I looked down into the stream. The pebbles in the water looked a lot like one of his paintings. Isn’t it interesting that looking at art can change the way you perceive the world?

Colorfield by Leonard Nelson, 1975, Oil on Canvas, 36" x 50". From the collection of Colorfield Partners in Rosemont, PA. Image courtesy of the book Leonard Nelson by Sam Hunter.

Pebbles in the stream
But the real hedonist in me became apparent after I saw this painting. I immediately saw it and thought:
This would make the perfect dress!

Colorfield by Leonard Nelson, 1981. 20" x 24" from the collection of Colorfield Partners, Rosemont, PA. Image courtesy of the book Leonard Nelson by Sam Hunter.
Who could blame me? What I wear reflects what interests me at the time. And often, it starts a conversation.
GHTime Code(s): nc
2 comments | tags: abstract expressionism, abstract paintings, colorfields, conversation prints, conversational prints, fields of color, jackson pollock, leonard nelson, mark rothko | posted in art, Fashion as art, Inspiration, Make yourself smarter, Nature inspired, Uncategorized, Vintage
Apr
25
2011

- Full Fathom Five by Jackson Pollock, 1947.
This week, I’ve revisited one of my favorite readings. It’s a chapter from Lars Svendsen’s book FASHION: A PHILOSOPHY. The chapter is simply called FASHION & ART. There is a huge philosophical debate on whether or not fashion is an art form and where the bad rap comes from. Fashion forefathers Charles Fredrick Worth and Paul Poiret are quoted, clearly bellowing that they are more than dressmakers – they are artists.
Some critics say that fashion could never be considered art. It has no body of criticism; it is too associated with the market and consumers; the value of the work is lost in mass production.
But then I wonder, are the critics contradicting themselves?
There is a body of criticism – those that say fashion is not art.
Art is also associated with the market and consumers, more so now than ever before.
Art is reproduced at an alarming rate, and yet nothing compares to seeing a painting in person.
The best advice I received from this reading is the following:
Rather than asking whether something is art, we ought to ask the question as to what
extent it is GOOD or RELEVANT art.
Svendsen, 107.

- JACKSON POLLOCK (1912-1956) Untitled, c. 1949
In conversation, I find that many people are repulsed by post-modern art. Abstract art is difficult to comprehend. Is it good? How can you tell if it’s well done – it’s just paint splattered everywhere. But there is something so compelling about abstract art. The color, the power of the brush strokes, the unusual geometry. Somehow, I seem to related everything back to fashion. Couldn’t this painting make an interesting textile print? Of maybe the color pallet can inspire my new summer wardrobe.
Art, in it’s best capacity, moves us to incorporate it into our daily lives – even when we
don’t fully understand it.

- Fashion Study with painting by Jackson Pollock. Vogue, 1951 by Cecil Beaton.

- Vogue Editorial on Pollock. March 1951.

- Blogger Tavi Garrison Adapting Pollock for Fashion. April, 2010.

- Detail. April 2010.

- Galatea of the Spheres by Salvador Dali, 1952.


- Dress Design by Adrian. Textile Design by Salvador Dali, 1947.

- Dress Design by Adrian. Textile Design by Salvador Dali. 1947.

- Tears Evening Dress by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938. Textiles by Salvador Dali.

- Lobster Evening Dress by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1937. Textile Design by Salvador Dali.

- Wallis Simpson in the Lobster Dress.

- Wallis Simpson in the Lobster Gown, sitting.

- Cover of American Fabrics Magazine, Fall 1950.

- Composition with Gray and Light Brown by Piet Mondrian, 1918

- Composition with Red, Yellow and Blue by Piet Mondrian, 1921.

- Composition #10 by Piet Mondrian, 1939.

- YSL Dress Inspired by Mondrian.

- Mondrian Inspired YSL Dress, Photo: Sipa Press/Rex Features.

- Yves St. Laurent Exhibit. De Young Museum, 2009.

- Galliano Inspired by Picasso.

- Elie Saab’s Inspired by Chuck Close.

- Miyake Inspired by Matisse.
Art improves the quality of life. Enjoy it, wherever you find it.
GHTime Code(s): nc
1 comment | tags: Adrian, Adrian and Dali, American Fabrics Magazine, Chuck Close, dali, Elsa Schiaparelli, fashion, fashion inspired by art, Galliano, jackson pollock, jackson pollock in vogue 1951, jackson pollock inspired fashion, Lobster dress, Matisse, Miyake, mondrian, Picasso, piet mondrian, pollock, Saab, salvador dali, Schiaparelli and Dali, tavi | posted in criticism, Designers I love, Fashion as art, fashion history, Make yourself smarter, Nature inspired, Uncategorized