Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet
April 21st, 2012

Surrealism Strikes Again

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Gaziano window display in San Francisco illustrates the current surrealist trend in fashion. Image courtesy of Avinash Singhal.

Many of my posts have discussed Surrealist art and its influence on fashion.  Trends in fashion, particularly retro-inspired trends, are often influenced by museum exhibitions.  After exhibits like Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones and the upcoming Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations, surrealist themes continue to spill over into the fashion world.

Take this window display for Gaziano in San Francisco.  These two mannequins clearly reference the works of Salvador Dali and Rene Magritte.

Salvador Dali for Vogue, December 1938.

 

Bonwit Teller displays and publicity photos of a phantome woman with a head of roses hat. This hat completely obscured the face, in accordance with Dali’s paintings. (Image: A scan image from the book Happy Times. Image by Jerome Zerbe. Photo Courtesy of wandernvisuals.com)

La Grande Guerre by Rene Magritte, 1964.

 

Surrealism strikes again!  (Many thanks to my friend Avinash for sharing the photo from Gaziano. )

For more information on the surrealist influence on fashion, read these posts:

A Light-hearted Look at the Surrealist Hat

The Art of Fashion Advertising

A rt Improves the Quality of Life

 

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March 19th, 2012

The Art of Fashion Advertising

DVF Ad Campaign. Image courtesy of Interview Magazine.

One of my favorite pastimes is poring over magazines while having a cup of coffee.  And two nights ago, that is exactly what I did.  This DVF ad campaign caught my eye.  What a nod to surrealism!  I couldn’t help but wonder if the advertising team attending Dylis Blum’s lecture on The Surrealist Hat.  The styling of the shot is such a reference to the art of Dali and Magritte from the 1930s.  The text accompanying the ad says:

Be the woman you want to be.

Dali - Three Young Surrealist Women Holding In Their Arms The Remains Of An Orchestra. Image courtesy of http://niiavolokin.tumblr.com

 

DVF Surrealist Ad Campaign.

 

Woman with Flower Head by Salvidor Dali, 1937. Image courtesy of wikipaintings.org

 

The Pleasure Principle by René Magritte, 1937. Image courtesy of http://www.g-truc.net

 

French Connection also followed suit – their models shielding their faces with balloons.

 

French Connection Ad Campaign. Image courtesy of Interview Magazine.

 

The Son of Man by Rene Magritte, 1964. Image courtesy of wikipedia.org

 

My real favorite is this fashion illustration featured in Elle Collections UK.  Fashion illustrations are a favorite of mine, and I would love to see them make a comeback.  This editorial illustration certainly looks a lot like the vintage illustrated ads for Maybelline and other cosmetics.

 

Makeup Illustration. Artwork by Lisa Rahman, image courtesy of Elle Collections UK.

 

Maybelline Illustrated Ad, c. 1960. Image courtesy of http://flickrhivemind.net

 

Here’s to hoping that everything old will be new again!

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December 18th, 2011

Guest Post on Surrealist Hats for The Vintage Traveler

The holiday season always makes me count my blessings.  And this year, I realized that a lot of the things I’m grateful for revolve around my blog.  Aside from being a creative outlet that I so desperately need, I’ve actually made quite a few friends from the experience.

One of my dearest friendships is with Lizzie Bramlett, creator of The Vintage Traveler.  She is one of the most interesting people I know!  Her blog is fantastic.  Being able to read about her travels and participate in her vintage treasure hunting and musing on fashion history is totally engrossing.  I always look forward to receiving her posts emailed right to my inbox.  As our friendship grew, we have been able to collaborate on many things.

One of our latest collaborations involved Dilys Blum’s talk on surrealist hats.  Her talk was part of the public programming to celebrate Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones, a current exhibition at Bard Graduate Center.  Thanks to Lizzie, I was able to attend the talk.  To show my gratitude for her information, I wrote a guest post for her.  The article, A Light-hearted Look at the Surrealist Hat, was posted a few days ago.  Won’t you take a look?  I think you’ll love her site as much as I do.  You’ll also see the surrealist influence on fashion, past and present.

Right: Philip Tracey Hat. Left: Salvidor Dali photo by Philippe Halsman.

 

 

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September 26th, 2011

Absolutely FABULOUS!

The Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising (FIDM) has an amazing museum.  It was one of the things I enjoyed best about teaching there.  A study collection and museum are some of the most valuable resources a fashion enthusiast can hope for, but often schools marginalized funding for this area.  Not FIDM.  Their latest exhibition, FABULOUS!, celebrates 10 years of drool-worthy acquisitions.

Court suit worn by composer Johann Hummel (1778-1837). This extravagant suit is made from uncut voided velvet with gold, silver, rhinestone and sequin decoration. The suit dates from 1810-14 and was created in Paris. Image courtesy of blog.fidmmuseum.org

 The collection at FIDM spans from the 19th century to present day, with garments much older than one would expect to see in Los Angeles. FABULOUS! showcases a nice chronology of fashion history, and just what a gem the museum is. Some historical highlights include an evening gown, aka Madame Olympe, c. 1866 and a court gown worn by Ann Bloomfield Gamble Post in 1907.

Evening gown, c.1866. Brocaded silk taffeta. Gift of Cathy Gordon 2007.893.1AB. Image courtesy of blog.fidmmuseum.org

 

Redfern court gown worn by Ann Bloomfield Gamble Post (1873-1919) to a royal reception at Buckingham Palace in 1907. Image courtesy of blog.fidmmuseum.org

Gallery space is always limited.  So in order to fully showcase a decade worth of scintillating purchases, the FIDM Museum published a lavish, fully illustrated catalogue.  My favorite?  The pristine blouse designed by Gilbert Adrian from a Salvador Dali textile. (New to my blog? Please take a look at Art Improves the Quality of Life.  It shows more of the Adrian/Dali collaboration)

I’d recommend the catalogue to anyone!  But hurry and purchases your copy quickly, quantities are limited.  Just visit their online store.

Blouse, Spring/Summer 1947. Gilbert Adrian, Designer. Salvador Dalí, Textile Artist. Enka rayon. Museum Purchase. 2008.25.10. Image courtesy of blog.fidmmuseum.org

 

 

 

 

 

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April 25th, 2011

Art Improves the Quality of Life

Full Fathom Five by Jackson Pollock, 1947.

This week, I’ve revisited one of my favorite readings.  It’s a chapter from Lars Svendsen’s book FASHION: A PHILOSOPHY.  The chapter is simply called FASHION & ART.  There is a huge philosophical debate on whether or not fashion is an art form and where the bad rap comes from.  Fashion forefathers Charles Fredrick Worth and Paul Poiret are quoted, clearly bellowing that they are more than dressmakers – they are artists.

Some critics say that fashion could never be considered art.  It has no body of criticism; it is too associated with the market and consumers; the value of the work is lost in mass production.

But then I wonder, are the critics contradicting themselves?

There is a body of criticism – those that say fashion is not art.

Art is also associated with the market and consumers, more so now than ever before.

Art is reproduced at an alarming rate, and yet nothing compares to seeing a painting in person.

The best advice I received from this reading is the following:

Rather than asking whether something is art, we ought to ask the question as to what

extent it is GOOD or RELEVANT art.

Svendsen, 107.

 

JACKSON POLLOCK (1912-1956) Untitled, c. 1949

 

In conversation, I find that many people are repulsed by post-modern art.  Abstract art is difficult to comprehend.  Is it good?  How can you tell if it’s well done – it’s just paint splattered everywhere.  But there is something so compelling about abstract art.  The color, the power of the brush strokes, the unusual geometry.  Somehow, I seem to related everything back to fashion.  Couldn’t this painting make an interesting textile print?  Of maybe the color pallet can inspire my new summer wardrobe.

Art, in it’s best capacity, moves us to incorporate it into our daily lives – even when we

don’t fully understand it.

 

Fashion Study with painting by Jackson Pollock. Vogue, 1951 by Cecil Beaton.

 

Vogue Editorial on Pollock. March 1951.
Blogger Tavi Garrison Adapting Pollock for Fashion. April, 2010.
Detail. April 2010.

 

Galatea of the Spheres by Salvador Dali, 1952.

 

 

 

Dress Design by Adrian. Textile Design by Salvador Dali, 1947.

 

 

Dress Design by Adrian. Textile Design by Salvador Dali. 1947.
Tears Evening Dress by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938. Textiles by Salvador Dali.

 

Lobster Evening Dress by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1937. Textile Design by Salvador Dali.
Wallis Simpson in the Lobster Dress.
Wallis Simpson in the Lobster Gown, sitting.
Cover of American Fabrics Magazine, Fall 1950.

 

 

Composition with Gray and Light Brown by Piet Mondrian, 1918

 

 

Composition with Red, Yellow and Blue by Piet Mondrian, 1921.

 

 

Composition #10 by Piet Mondrian, 1939.

 

 

YSL Dress Inspired by Mondrian.

 

 

Mondrian Inspired YSL Dress, Photo: Sipa Press/Rex Features.

 

 

 

Yves St. Laurent Exhibit. De Young Museum, 2009.

 

 

Galliano Inspired by Picasso.

 

 

Elie Saab’s Inspired by Chuck Close.

 

 

Miyake Inspired by Matisse.

 

Art improves the quality of life.  Enjoy it, wherever you find it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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