Philosophy Presenting the Seven Liberal Arts to Boethius (detail), miniature in a French manuscript of The Consolation of Philosophy attributed to the Coëtivy Master, about 1460–70. Image courtesy of getty.edu
With the cold weather creeping its way into the forecast, a new season is ushered into our fashion wardrobes. Spring clothes go into hibernation. Fall and winter garments enter the scene to arm us for the cold weather fronts. This year, I’m really gravitating to fashion inspired by Medieval & Byzantine art. This same inspiration was used by Alexander McQueen in the final collection before his death.
Medieval & Byzantine Inspired coat. Alexander McQueen, 2010. Image courtesy of guardian.co.uk
The best sources to consult when looking for Medieval fashions are illuminations. Illuminated manuscripts are books adorned with hand-painted illustrations, borders, and stylized calligraphy. The earliest illuminated manuscripts are from around 400AD. This date coincides with the fall of Western Rome to Germanic invaders and the rise of Byzantine culture. (In 330AD, Roman Emperor Constantine I created two Roman capitals, Rome and Constantinople. Constantine I also declared Christianity the religion of the empire. Natural divisions within the empire occurred over time. Constantinople, or present-day Istanbul, was able to survive after the Germanic invasions and evolved into the Byzantine Empire.) These manuscripts were created by Christian monks, who’s main religious task was preserving the ancient knowledge of Greece and Rome.
Illuminated manuscript. Image courtesy of The Morgan Library & Museum.
You can zoom in on areas of particular interest, and then read about each of the manuscripts. The image above has the following description:
The Fashion Revolution Explodes: ca. 1345–50
The four young men in this miniature are all dressed at the height of the new fashion. They wear the new short garment, the cote hardy: buttoned down the front, it is tight at the skirt, bodice, and sleeves. All sport chaperons, two of which are dagged (cut into decorative strips). Some wear delicate shoes, while the youth in blue wears chaussembles: hose with leather soles. The two women at the left wear the open surcot. The woman in blue wears the closed surcot, furnished with a lined slit for access to the kirtle. She also wears tippets: thin decorative bands of cloth falling from the elbow.
The Life of Solomon, from Bible Historiale by Guvart des Moulins, 1402. Image courtesy of hermes-press.com
Alexander McQueen's last collection. Image courtesy of fashionfame.com
Alexander McQueen's last collection. Image courtesy of thelovelyroom.com
Other great sources to consult for inspiration are works of art from the time period. A lot of mosaics still remain throughout Europe. In the US, The Cloisters holds a collection dedicated to medieval art and architecture.
Byzantine Empress Theodora. Byzantine. Image courtesy of metmuseum.org
Emperor Justinian with Empress Theodora. Image courtesy of angelfire.com
The Byzantine Empire amassed even greater wealth under Justinian I and his Empress Theodora (above). A former actress and dancer, Theodora caught the eye of Justinian with her beauty. Apparently, Karl Lagerfeld felt the same way back in 2010, as he explained that Theodora was his muse for the pre-fall 2011 collection:
The season’s theme, Paris-Byzance, Lagerfeld explained, was inspired by the Empress Theodora and the lost culture of Byzantium. In typically rapid-fire mode, he noted: “Theodora was a circus artist who became empress, like Chanel, who was a little singer and became a fashion empress.”
Chanel Pre-Fall 2011. Image courtesy of Style.com
Chanel Pre-Fall 2011. Image courtesy of Style.com
Chanel Pre-Fall 2011. Image courtesy of Style.com
Chanel Pre-Fall 2011. Image courtesy of Style.com
Byzantine jewelry continued Greco-Roman traditions but was also influenced by Eastern decorative arts. A hybrid style, Byzantine jewelry used lots of pearls, a variety of colored gem stones, and enamel. Coupled with expert metal smiths, the jewelry is lavish with detail.
Finger Ring with a Cross, 450–525. Frankish. Image courtesy of metmuseum.org
Byzantine jewelry, via the British Museum.
Byzantine earrings. Image courtesy of arthistoryspot.com
While most of us can’t afford a McQueen or Chanel wardrobe, there are some key elements to look for when piecing together this type of look.
- Deep-hued, richly colored fabrics
- Embroidery
- Fur
- Ornate costume jewelry
- Long, ankle-skimming skirts
Necklace available at Forever 21. Approx. $9.00
Faux fur vest from H&M. Approx. $40.00
Embroidered sleeve dress from Topshop.com. Approx. $175
Priscilla mmbellished tights from bebaroque.co.uk Approx. £75
All these ideas, and you’ll be looking like royalty.
Bust of the Virgin, ca. 1390–95. Bohemia. Image courtesy of metmuseum.org
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