Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet
May 15th, 2013

Textile sketches by Sonia Delaunay

The Metropolitan Museum of Art is one of my favorite places to pass some time.  Earlier this week, I took a group of students to a special event celebrating Punk: Chaos to Couture.  As I wandered around the second floor, making my way to the exhibition, several sketches caught my eye.  The main corridor that leads to the special exhibition gallery is generally lined with works on paper – prints, drawings, and so on.  I noticed a lot of patterns, and knew they were textile designs.  (I’ll be writing more about those later!)  In the middle of this large corridor was a small table encased in plexiglass with the most wonderful sketches by Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979).

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These drawings are from 1925, and just darling!  I stood there a long time looking at them.  (They were a bit difficult to photograph without casting a shadow, as you can see.)  These sketches are simply entitled Sonia Delaunay: her paintings, her objects, her simultaneous fabrics, her fashions.  I think these are really prime examples of her design sensibilities, which included the art theory her and her husband Robert developed.  (New to my site?  You should take a look at my previous posts on Sonia & Robert Delaunay)

Sonia, along with her husband, painter Robert Delaunay (1885-1941), developed a color theory called simultaneity – the sensation of movement when contrasting colors are placed side by side.

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I love the geometry and color patterns in each of these sketches.  They clearly show a harmony between the fine and decorative arts movements at the time.  The green and black dress on the left is a nod to Cubism.  The middle dress looks uncannily like the interior of  an Art Deco building.  Perhaps it was inspired by a tiled floor.

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The silhouette is still column-like, which is a hallmark of the 1920s.  There is no defined waist, and the garments seem to hang vertically from the shoulders and obscure the shape of the body.   However, you can see that most of the hemlines are quite long – a definite contrast to the American flapper.  A nice alternative silhouette  to all The Great Gatesby buzz that’s been going around.

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All images courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

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March 29th, 2013

Calder Bicentennial Tapestries

 

 

 

 

Making discoveries in your own back yard are so fun.  Today, I was at the Zoellner Arts Center at Lehigh University.  I went to their gallery to see the Joan Mitchell show, which I will be writing a post about shortly!  However, I was really surprised to see these tapestries hanging up.  They are by none other than Alexander Calder  (1898-1976).

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The Bicentennial Tapestries: La Poire, le fromage, et le serpent (The Pear, the Cheese, and the Serpent) by Alexander Calder, 1975.  Wool.  Handwoven the Atelier of Pinton Freres.

Calder was a famous sculptor.  You’ve probably seen some of his mobiles, which he started producing in the 1930s.  Calder was born in Philadelphia.  His father was a sculpter and his mother was a painter.  After studying engineering, Calder studied at the Art Students’ League in New York

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Mobile by Alexander Calder. Image courtesy of the LA Times
Calder was not limited to sculpture.  He experimented with various media: jewlery, paiting, drawing, tapestries.  Calder tried it all.  He was also very close friends with Vera Neumann, a fantastic textile and scarf designer.  (I remember a particularly fantastic post on this topic by The Vintage Traveler!)

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The Bicentennial Tapestries: La Tache Bleue (The Blue Blob) by Alexander Calder, 1975.

In celebration of the bicentennial of the American Revolution, Calder designed a set of six tapestries.  His designs were then handwoven by the Pinton Freres atelier in Aubusson, France.  A limited edition of 200 were produced.

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The The Bicentennial Tapestries: Le Sphere et les spirales (The Sphere and the Spirals) by Alexander Calder, 1975.      

Each of the tapestries are signed and have a number.  I wasn’t able to closely examine each of the tapestries, because they were hanging quite high on the wall.  Two of the tapestries were hung above benches.  So I stepped up to take a closer look (and a few photos).   Here is the signature and a mark that I can’t quite make out.  I suppose it is the number of the tapestry.

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I really loved the graphic quality of the tapestries.  The swirls and stripes are so interesting.  The Palms is a great example of what I’m talking about.

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The Bicentennial Tapestries: Les Palmiers (The Palms) by Alexander Calder, 1975.      

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Calder actually died the same year in which the tapestries were realized by the Pinton Freres atelier.  These tapestries were a gift from Philip and Muriel Burman in 1999.  The local newspaper, The Morning Call wrote more about the weaving technique when the gift was announced to the public:

 The panels were made in Aubusson, France, using a centuries old technique that takes the weaver a month to create a single square yard of tapestry. The Bicentennial Tapestries were woven at Pinton Freres, the same studio that converted the art of Picasso, Chagall and Miro into Aubusson tapestry.

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The Bicentennial Tapestries: Trois spirales (Three Spirals) by Alexander Calder, 1975.

 The sixth tapestry was in the permanent gallery downstairs, which I missed.  More reason to go back and take another look!

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March 24th, 2013

A to See

 

 

It’s been one of those weeks.  You know, the kind of week when your to-do list is a mile long and you’re running on fumes.  I’ve been juggling multiple projects, commuting, and grading for the end of the term.  After carefully finishing all my requirements, I needed some time for myself.  Having quiet time is really essential for me to stay balanced.  So what did I do?

Earlier in the week, I found this great vintage illustrated dictionary.  It was the first volume in a set of six, and covers A to Ch.  There was something so compelling about the illustrations that I had to buy it.  There were so many wonderful pictures that I knew would inspire me to draw.

 

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There is something about drawing that re-energizes me.  It is sort of a meditation.  I become really absorbed in the process of creating shapes and lines.  When I draw, I want to capture not only a likeness of the object, but it’s spirit – the way it makes me feel.  That is why making art changes my mood.  Instead of focusing on external things outside of my control, I look to a thing of beauty that makes me happy and try to create a record of it.  This little dictionary was filled with some of the happiest, beautiful illustrations.  Like this:

 

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The catalpa is a tree with heart-shaped leaves.  I’ve seen trees like this before, and marveled at them.  A tree full of hearts!  What a perfect plant for me.  But I’d never know the name.  Of course I was inspired and made this little drawing:

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The illustration that really made me purchase the book was of a bluff along the sea.  It has a little sailboat hugging the shoreline.  I thought it was really darling, and reminded me of Monet’s seascapes.  (Maybe I will post about those paintings tomorrow!)

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I changed the color of the sails to purple, but kept the passenger.

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Then, a chestnut tree caught my attention:

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I’m not sure if I liked how this one came out, but it was still fun to do!

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Every page I turned brought more inspiring images.  I sketched a few more things, but was most happy with this canyon.

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I could easily entertain myself this way for much longer.  I only wish I had the entire volume of this dictionary!  There must be so much more to see.

(Like my drawings?  I used a thin tip Sharpie marker and Crayola Twistable crayons.  I highly recommend these items!)

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March 13th, 2013

Land of the Lost Socks

No matter how careful I am when doing my laundry, a few socks seem to get lost.  I’m careful to pair them together when I place them in the hamper.  I’ve even created a special bin of singular socks – hoping that one day, I’ll find their mate and can wear them again.  Where do these missing socks go?

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This work of art pretty much summarizes where I imagine all my socks go: some parallel sock universe.  Land of the Lost Socks is a painting by Jon Swartz of Black Ink.  Jon makes some pretty amazing art.  He trained as a graphic designer, but really loves painting and illustrating.  I’m so glad he founded Black Ink with his brother, David, because now they are able to offer paintings, mixed media art, and freelance illustrations.  Jon has such a gift of displaying his creativity and  imagination for all of us to see.  I feel like he practically captured a mental snapshot of my missing socks.

Be sure to checkout and support Black Ink.  They have a great Etsy shop!  Their offer some really lovely art.  As a lover of trees and tree paintings, I also really enjoy this digital print, Life Tree.

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February 20th, 2013

Vivienne Westwood: Do It Yourself

A few weeks ago, I got to watch the documentary Vivienne Westwood: Do It Yourself.   I’m a HUGE Vivienne Westwood fan.  If was only allowed to wear the designs of one person, I would definitely pick Vivienne Westwood.  Part of why I like her looks so much is that they are very feminine, very artistic, while still having an element of rebellion.  (New to my site?  You should also look at my post Philip Guston & Vivienne Westwood) Really, I didn’t know much about her personality before watching the documentary.  But now I really love her!  She is so intelligent, sassy, and kind.

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The film follows Westwood around for the period of 1 year.  It’s a really intimate look at her daily life.  She actually starts designing each collection the same way that Madeline Vionnet did – with half-sized mannequins (see the image below).  She explains this is a particularly helpful method to use when she doesn’t know where to start.  She will simple take muslin and start cutting and draping it over the tiny form.

 

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She talks about knowing the past and building cumulative knowledge.  No experience is a waste.  She explains:

“The more you know about what hasn’t been done, the more you know the story you can tell.  The art is that its trial and error, it is a building up. That’s what technique is, a building up to know what will work and develop.”  

 

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Next, Westwood rides her bicycle in heels to her afternoon signing lesson.  Aside from being amazingly charming, you start to get a sense of how intelligent she is.  Westwood is committed to lifelong learning. This is exemplified in her singing lessons, but she also starts to discuss serious subjects like history, literature, and art.  She has a clear philosophy designing and life in general.  I like that she doesn’t see life and work as separate things:

“You have to try to understand the world.  If you can, then you have an anchor.  You can make a story from it.  It inhabits a certain world of possibilities.”

 

British designer Vivienne Westwood arrives at the end of her Spring/Summer 2010 collection in Paris

 

 

She goes on to explain how a lot of her designs are influenced by Aldous Huxley.  This British author said that the world suffers from three evils: Nationalistic Idolatry, Non-Stop Distraction, Organized Lying.  These three evils are the root of propaganda.  Westwood really takes these to heart, and agrees that the worst evil is non-stop-distraction.  She uses these ideas to form her collection.  She tries to design clothing that is an active resistance against propaganda.  

 

 

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Her clothing is really fun.  It mixes and matches classic tartans and argyle patterns with street style elements.  Some fabrics have graffiti like scribbles.  The shoes have impossible buckles and straps.  Pretty much everything I love all rolled into one outfit.

 

 

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But she really had me when she explained how she felt about art: “If art is alive, the world will change.  No art?  No progress. ” I couldn’t agree more.

 

 

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December 9th, 2012

Significant Others: Jasper Johns & Robert Rauschenberg

Relationships can have profound effects on our careers and the work that we produce.  Unhealthy relationships are harmful on so many levels.  Aside from the emotional damage, they can impose limitations on creativity, expression, and experimentation.  My post about Lee Krasner & Jackson Pollock illustrates this point.  After reading that essay, I was feeling pretty dismal about relationships.  Do they always have to impede personal development and growth?
Healthy relationships impact our creativity and professional careers, too.  Obviously the level of impact varies from couple to couple.  I’ve seen lots of healthy relationships, and know that a good partner will support your career and hobbies.  But I’ve never really seen a healthy relationship where two people were in the same creative field and supported each other.  The most encouraging essay from Significant Others was The Art of Code: Jasper Johns & Robert Rauschenberg by Johnathan Katz.
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Robert Rauschenberg (right) and Jasper Johns (left).  Image courtesy of Outlawmarriages.
Jasper Johns (b. 1930) and Robert Rauschenberg (1925-2008) were lovers for over six years.  They met in 1953, a time when homosexuality was not just under scrutiny, but vigorously suppressed.  Keep in mind that this was the McCarthy era, when fear of communism was everywhere.  All kinds of political propaganda circulated – in particular that the gay and lesbian communities were somehow a security risk to the country.
Rauschenberg has been a recognized as an artist well before Johns had even started dabbling in painting classes at Black Mountain College.  Rauschenberg married Susan Weil in 1950 to keep up appearances, but a year later was secretly involved with artist Cy Twombly.  In contrast to Twombly’s work and the paintings of the Abstract Expressionists of the time, Rauschenberg’s art was curiously quiet.  In fact, his artwork was a radical opposition to the entire movement.  His most famous piece during this time was Erased de Kooning.  Rauschenberg requested a drawing from de Kooning that he would later exhibit as his own after erasing the complex drawing.
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Erased de Kooning by Robbert Rauschenberg, 1953.  Image courtesy of Brown University.

He also created several series of White Paintings.  Paintings like these usually irritate me.  If I’m wandering around a museum on my own, I wonder why they are being exhibited.  They don’t seem to require any sort of technical skill.  Nor do any of the labels hint at why the composition might be ground breaking.  What Johnathan Katz did in his essay was put the entire artwork into context.  Rauschenberg’s White Paintings were a total negation of the self.  Abstract Expressionism was about the struggle of self expression – to literally blurt out emotions, inner turmoil, and identity onto the canvas with paint.  How could Rauschenberg do this when to be gay was so harshly received?  To come out was perceived as anti-American.

 

So my perspective on Erased de Kooning and the White Paintings definitely changed after learning this.  These works are Rauschenberg’s attempts to marginalize the idea of the self, of his own feelings, and his own sexual identity.  The canvases leave little trace of brushstrokes or any indication of who the artist might be.  They are completely and numbingly silent.  Instead of just seeing white panels, I can feel a real sense of isolation.  It’s like seeing Rauschenberg’s desire to erase himself – to obliterate a part of himself from existence.

 

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White Paintings by Robert Rauschenberg, 1951.  Image courtesy of A Year From Monday.
Rauschenberg began seeing Johns in the winter of  1953.  Johns was working in a bookstore, unsure if he wanted to pursue art.  Rauschenberg encourage John to use his creativity designing department store window displays.  The two worked on these displays and began painting together.  This marked a new direction of art.  Both Rauschenberg and Johns didn’t identify with Abstract Expressionism, and started making a move towards Pop Art.
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Target by Jasper Johns, 1958.  Image courtesy of Michael Arnold Art.
This relationship gave each artist the opportunity for self expression, dialogue, understanding, and support that neither had experienced before.  This gave way to unique compositions and paintings.    They were totally supportive of one another.  Rauschenberg explained:
“He and I were each other’s first serious critics. Actually, he was the first painter I ever shared ideas with, or had discussions with about painting.  No, not the first, Cy Twombly was the first.  But Cy and I were not critical . . .But Jasper and I literally traded ideas.  He would say ‘I’ve got a terrific idea for you,’ and then I’d have to find one for him.  Ours were two very different sensibilities, and being so close to each other’s work kept any incident of similarity from occurring.” (197)
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Numbers in Color by Jasper Johns, 1958.  Image courtesy of About.com

I love this notion of trading ideas.  It shows that they supported each other’s work, that they were both willing to strike out in new directions – they were both willing to take risks and try new things.  They gave each other permission to experiment with a new style of painting, and an environment for discussion.

 

This new direction went away from emotions on a canvas that was so common with Abstract Expressionism.  They instead placed other material objects on the canvas.  Everything from newspaper to cloth was fair game.  Rauschenberg started creating Combines, his own hybrid of collage, sculpture, and painted images.

 

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Yoicks by Robert Rauchenberg, 1953.  Image courtesy of The Whitney.

Johns began painting single image canvases.  His painting Flag in 1955 was such a hit because it made the viewer ask: “Is it a flag or a painting of a flag?”  The sheer absurdity of the composition leaves the viewer wondering about what makes something art.  The viewer isn’t trying to interpret the artists inner state, emotions, or sexual preference.  The focus is on the actual canvas and  larger questions like: What is art?  And what is good art?
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 Flag by Jasper Johns, 1955.  Image courtesy of MoMA.

 

The two artists started to develop a secret code in their artwork.  They shared objects, like light bulbs.  Johns would draw them, and Rauschenberg would include them into his Combines.  They shared many inside jokes and coded language in their work.  Some were photos, others were literary references.  Katz explains in his essay:

Exchanging ideas and motifs was an important part of the relationship between Johns and Rauschenberg despite their different approaches.” 

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Savarin by Jasper Johns, 1977.  Image courtesy of The National Gallery
To find a partner that gives you ideas, shares an ideology, and appreciates your interests and work is such a beautiful thing.  I think as humans, we are all looking for a relationship like this, regardless of sexual preference.  To find a partner like this is very rare.  And it doesn’t always last.  In the case of Johns and Rauschenberg, they broke up in 1961.  They each moved far from each other, and their painting styles changed quite drastically, as you can see.
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Sub Total by Robert Rauschenberg, 1971,  Image courtesy of Art Brokerage

 

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November 18th, 2012

Significant Others: Sonia & Robert Delaunay

During the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy, I started reading Significant Others: Creativity & Intimate Partnership. This book is a series of essays that explores the relationships of great artists.  It is an attempt to understand how gender, creativity, and partnership influence art.  Writing and painting take place in a sort of isolation, the privacy of a studio or home.  But what happens when to great writers or artists form a relationship?  How does this collaboration that happens behind closed doors affect the creative process? Can they both be geniuses?  Or is on person just an enabler of genius?

 

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Sonia and Robert Delaunay.  Image courtesy of Penny Fabricart

 

I immediately started with chapter two, Living Simultaneously: Sonia and Robert Delaunay.  This couple interested me several years ago.  When I taught in LA, I introduced the concept of synesthesia to my students to stimulate their creativity.  I can’t couldn’t help but wonder if artist and fashion designer Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979) had synesthesia.  Sonia, along with her husband, painter Robert Delaunay (1885-1941), developed a color theory called simultaneity – the sensation of movement when contrasting colors are placed side by side.  She also referred to her garments from the 1920s as robe poemes, or dress poems.

 

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Sonia Delaunay.  Skirt, Tissu simultané no. 186, France, ca. 1926; block printed wool jersey.  Image courtesy of  Studio & Garden.

 

The essay by Whitney Chadwick really puts the time period and the relationship between these two creative forces into perspective.  The 1910s were years dominated by the search for modernity in all its forms.  This was as a decade when “the new” was pursued in all areas: the fashionable ideal began to relax, art became more abstract, and urban life allowed ideas and theories to circulate easily.  Paris was one of the great urban capitals of this decade, and the city where Sonia and Robert met in 1908.
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Rhythm by Robert Delaunay, 1912.  Image courtesy of wikipaintings.

 

Both were painters and influenced each other greatly.  Each exhibited their work in galleries, and actively participated in the art scene during the time.  Robert was also interested in the academic aspects of art, and later developed theories to explain his work.  However, in 1909 Sonia switched mediums and began creating quilts, embroideries, and clothing.

 

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Sonia Delaunay.  Design C53, France, 1924; gouache and pencil.  Image courtesy of  Studio & Garden.

 

What I find so interesting is that, despite completely different media and approaches, the Delaunays created similar works.  It seems to me that their relationship was mutually productive and enriching.  Sonia would create the “fabric” of their home environment: clothing, curtains, lampshades, quilts and Robert would paint and theorize about their methods of creation.  They each contributed to inspiring the other.  This is mostly because while they had similar goals, they had different perspectives.  Chadwick explains:

“However indebted Robert may have been to Sonia’s more spontaneous and uninhibited expression of color – of she to his years of studying and analyzing form – they both understood their sources quite differently.” 

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Simultaneous Windows on the City, 1912, by Robert Delaunay,

 

Robert’s approach to creating and painting was very scientific.  He constantly sought out theories and justifications for his use of color and form.  Sonia was able to translate sensations into creative form very easily because of her training, but never sought to formally explain her art.

 

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Sonia Delaunay.  Design 951bis, fabric samples, France, 1929; printed silk.  Image courtesy of  Studio & Garden.

 

The reading sent me on a spiral of looking up each of their works.  Their use of color and form is similar, yet distinct.  I find it so interesting to see how their work obviously parallels.  They both shared the aesthetic vision of simultaneity.  Where they differed was their ideal audience.  Robert wanted to remain an academic painter in the salon, while Sonia believed art should be accessible to everyone and took it to the street.

 

 
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Circular Forms (Formes circulaires), 1930. Oil on canvas, 50 3/4 x 76 3/4 inches (128.9 x 194.9 cm). Image courtesy of  the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, New York.  Solomon R. Guggenheim Founding Collection  49.1184
 
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Sonia Delaunay.  Design 1317, working drawing, France, 1934; colorprint, pencil, and ink on paper.  Image courtesy of  Studio & Garden.
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Rhythme: Robert Delaunay, 1938. Image by SandrineT, 28 April 2009 August 2010 (Musee d’Art Moderne, Paris) Image courtesy of Tom Clark.
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Sonia Delaunay.  Scarf, produced by Liberty’s of London, France, ca. 1967; printed silk voile.  Image courtesy of  Studio & Garden.
I think the difference in perspective and desired audience allowed the Delaunays relationship to remain positive.  Instead of directly competing with each other, they inspired one another.  They created a stimulating and creative environment.  They were both able to express themselves though diverse media, and somehow blend them together.  A great example of this domestic and creative harmony is the image below.  It’s a portrait of Tristan Tzara, painted by Robert, wearing one of Sonia’s scarves.

 

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Portrait of Tristan Tzara by Robert Delaunay, 1923.  Image courtesy of  Wearable Art.

 






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November 1st, 2012

Hurricane Reading: Significant Others

I’ve been without power since Monday.  In order to connect to power sources and internet, I’ve had to be resourceful.  Many businesses have opened their doors to those of us without electricity.  Bookstores, fire houses, gyms – they have all been quite generous in lending a helping hand.

Many people seem annoyed by this change of pace.  I’ve been enjoying myself quite a bit.  No distractions!  One thing I’ve been doing to entertain myself is catching up on reading.  Right now, I’m reading Significant Others: Creativity & Intimate Partnership.

This book is a series of essays that explores the relationships of great artists.  It is an attempt to understand how gender, creativity, and partnership influence art.  Writing and painting take place in a sort of isolation, the privacy of a studio or home.  But what happens when to great writers or artists form a relationship?  How does this collaboration that happens behind closed doors affect the creative process? Can they both be geniuses?  Or is on person just an enabler of genius?  The editors of the book were hoping to shed some light on how these famous couples shattered traditional gender rols.  So much of history is written in a gendered way: creativity is considered masculine, women only paint or write when they are bored.  But there is so much more to this story.

The idea behind the book is so interesting to me.  I’m a writer and painter.  So much of my creativity happens behind closed doors.  However, I wouldn’t necessarily say that I create in solitude.  I’m inspired by friends and other people all the time.  Social interaction is critical to so many of my ideas for writing and reasons for painting.  Intimate relationships absolutely affect my creativity – some relationships thwarted my writing and painting, while others inspired me beyond words.  So I was intrigued to read about more famous collaborations . . .

The book explores 13 major creative partnerships, including:

  •  Lee Krasner and Jackson Pollock. (abstract painters)
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Jackson Pollock and Lee Krasner in their studio, c. 1949.  Image courtesy of The Slide Projector
  • Sonia and Robert Delaunay (fashion & textile designer, cubist painter)
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Sonia and Robert Delaunay.  Image courtesy of Pluto’s Edge 
  • Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera (painters)
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Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.  Image courtesy of  Blue Light Lady.
Over the next few days, I’ll be writing more about this fascinating couples and their artistic collaborations.  Be patient, please!  My access to internet and electricity are limited.

 

 

GHTime Code(s): nc 

August 23rd, 2012

Fashion, Food, & Art

If you’ve paid any attention to the fashion press, you’ll know that this season’s trend is everything Italian.  So if you’re looking for great inspiration, be sure to check out my friend Alessandro’s blog, The Fashion Commentator.  He constantly delights me with the best of Italian fashion – great images,  insightful observations, and the text is even bilingual!  A few weeks ago, he inspired me to write today’s post.  I hope you enjoy it, and be sure to check out his blog and Facebook page!

 

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 Moschino shirt, 1989.  Image courtesy of The Fashion Commentator.

 

Alessandro always posts great images, but I was quite taken by this Moschino shirt.  The sunny-side-up eggs were just so funny to me.  Food and fashion have had a long-standing relationship, which I learned about from my friend Emma.  She gave a presentation, Food & Fashion, at the CSA symposium back in May.  Many textile and fashion designers choose prints that depict food.  Miuccia Prada and Vera Neumann come to mind!  (Interested in learning more about Emma’s presentation?  Contact her at emmakpenner@gmail.com)

 

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Apple print shirt by Vera Neumann.  Image courtesy of Emma Kadar-Penner.

 

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Vera Neumann “Insalata” print for Crate & Barrel.  Miuccia Prada “Banana” print.  Images courtesy of Crate & Barrel and iloveartificial.blogspot.com.

 

After seeing all these textile prints inspired by food, I couldn’t help but see the resemblance to Giuseppe Arcimboldo (1527-1593).  Arcimboldo was a Renaissance painter based in Milan.  He created fantastical portraits where the sitter was made entirely of food.

 

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Vertumnus, the Roman God of the Seasons by Arcimboldo, c. 1590.  Oil on canvas.  Image courtesy of Skokloster Castle.

 

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Autumn by Arcimboldo, c. 1572.  Oil on canvas. Private collection, Bergamo.  Image courtesy of all-art.org

 

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  Summer by Arcimboldo, c. 1563.   Oil on panel.  Image courtesy of reproarte.com

 

These paintings always fascinate me.  The level of skill and imagination it takes to create a distinct portrait comprised of food is something I can’t wrap my mind around.  It also seems like Arcimboldo was predicting Surrealist art back in the Renaissance.

 

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Moschino loves Altreforme – Pasta print.  Image courtesy of The Fashion Commentator.

 

I wonder if Prada and Moschino were inspired by Arcimboldo’s paintings, or if they just liked combining fashion and food.  Either way, its fun!

 

GHTime Code(s): nc 

August 13th, 2012

Recap: Yayoi Kusama at the Whitney

This past weekend, I went to the Whitney Museum to see the Yayoi Kusama retrospective.  Kusama (b. 1929) is a Japanese artist who gained international recognition in the art world during the late 1950s.  She is best known for her large scale works, which include the compulsive use of dots, circles, and netting.  The lobby of the Whitney featured massive red ballons with white polkadots.
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Aside from her new collaboration with Louis Vuitton, I was curious to see Kusama’s art because she has lived voluntarily in a mental illness facility for the past 35 years.  At a young age, she started to have hallucinations of seeing dots and hearing noises.
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David Piling’s interview pieces together her autobiography and personal statements about creating art:
“One day, I suddenly looked up to find that each and every violet had its own individual, human-like facial expression, and to my astonishment they were all talking to me.” On other occasions, “suddenly things would be flashing and glittering all around me. So many different images leaped into my eyes that I was left dazzled and dumbfounded.” Whenever these hallucinations occurred, she would rush home and draw what she had seen. (Source: FT.com)

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Growing up, Van Gogh was my favorite artist.  I always thought it was terrible that people dismissed his art.  He lived in and out of sanitariums of years.  While alive, he only earned about about $100 for his paintings.  He starved.  He cut his own ear off.  Yet he made the most beautiful works of art that are worth millons of dollars today.  He continues to inspire people long after his death.  What if Van Gogh would have had the opportunity to work the way that Kusama does today?  This was my main thought while wandering through the galleries.

 

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Van Gogh left behind letters and journals in which he explained his philosophy on creating art:

“The world only concerns me in so far as I feel a certain debt and duty towards it and out of gratitude want to leave some souvenir in the shape of drawings or pictures – not made to please a certain tendency in art, but to express sincere human feeling.”

Similarly, Kusama stated:

“I am always trying to transmit my own message to as many people as possible,” she says. “My main message is please stop war and live out the brilliance of life. (Source: ft.com)

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Art gives people a way to heal.  I think it’s pretty extraordinary that despite an illness, Kusama has created a body of work that spans 50 years.  My friend Nadine and I talked about the show.  She said she really liked how Kusama rejected the typical sensibility that Japanese culture is recognized for.  So true!  But I think that this same sensibility is what allowed Kusama to still remain an artist in the face of her sickness.

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Kusama in her studio.  Image courtesy of ft.com 

GHTime Code(s): nc nc nc nc 

July 20th, 2012

Philip Guston & Vivienne Westwood

The connection between art and fashion becomes stronger in my mind every day.  I spend a good deal of my day researching different painters and art movements for work.  Over the course of a week, I’m exposed to hundreds of images of art.  And in my spare time, I see just as many images of fashion.
Earlier this month, I scored an amazing book, Three Hundred Years of American Art, at a second-hand store.  I was enticed to buy it because I saw a major connection between Richard Florsheim (artist) and Antonio Castillo (couturier).
The book is so enthralling.  I’ve continued to read it, and became acquainted with the works of Philip Guston (1912-1980).
Guston was part of the Postwar Abstract Expressionist movement in New York.   During this phase, Guston experimented with color through non-representational paintings.  His canvases have large, rhythmic strokes of color concentrated at the center.  The colors then blend softly outward towards the edges.  The purpose of these paintings were for Guston to represent “himself”, and he would use canvases measureing close to his own size.
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Philip Guston.  Zone, c. 1953.  Oil on canvas, 46″ x 48″.  Image courtesy of http://www.abstract-art.com
Self-expression is also central to fashion.  The way we dress ourselves communicates our identity, even if it is in an abstract way.  Designing clothing takes Guston’s idea of representing himself to an even larger scale – how do you make clothing that speaks for your clients?
I thought about this idea while window shopping on Net-a-porter yesterday.  And then, there it was.  Vivienne Westwood’s Union Jack dress.  I couldn’t help but admire the similarity of composition to Guston’s Zone.
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Vivienne Westwood Gold Label.  Tuck Union Jack-print silk-chiffon dress.  Image courtesy of  http://www.fashionfuss.com
This, of course, led me down a rabbit hole.  Vivienne Westwood is one of my favorite designers.  Westwood began designing in the 1960s, and wanted to offer an alternative to the hippie look.  She was particularly interested in rebellion, and pushed the limits.  She used zippers, leather, provocative messages, and anything to provoke a reaction.
Rebellion is always central to Westwood’s designs, although her look is more romantic and feminine than her first few years of design.
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Philip Guston.  The Light, 1964.  Oil on canvas, 69″  x 78″.  Image courtesy of http://www.themodern.org
I was already a huge Westwood fan.  But as I continued to see the parallels between her designs and Guston’s paintings, my enthusiasm could hardly be contained!  I was nearly jumping with excitement after seeing each of the following:
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Vivienne Westwood.  Detail of Anglomania Apron Fish Dress.  $713.  Image courtesy of zappos.com
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Philip Guston.  To B. T. W., 1951.  Oil on canvas.  Image courtesy of http://poulwebb.blogspot.com
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Vivienne Westwood Anglomania.  Fond Printed Crepe Dress, $240.  Image courtesy of lyst.com
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Philip Guston.  Oil on Canvas.  Image courtesy of  http://culturalonslaught.blogspot.com

 

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Vivienne Westwood.  Anglomania Melissa heels.  Image courtesy of lyst.com

 

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Philip Guston.  White Painting II, 1951.  Oil on canvas, 50″ x 50.9″.  Image courtesy of artnet.com
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Vivienne Westwood Gold Label.  Fiona Tiered Printed Silkorganza Dress, $4,485.  Images courtesy of lyst.com
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Philip Guston.  Image courtesy of http://shanefamealexander.blogspot.com
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Vivienne Westwood.  Pink jeweled socks with red and brown tassels.  Men’s Fall/Winter 2010 collection.  Image courtesy of http://stylefrizz.com
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Philip Guston.  Untitled, c. 1955.  Image courtesy of http://arsvitaest.tumblr.com
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Vivienne Westwood Gold Label.  Union Jack Sequin Dress, $3,527.  Image courtesy of lyst.com
Guston continued to paint abstractly until 1970.  Then, he exhibited a new, cartoon-like figurative style.  While I’m not as drawn to this style, I can appreciate that it emerged from Guston’s frustration and stagnation.  Guston had painted in the same manner for nearly 20 years, and his “cartoons” were more about creative freedom than popular approval.
I know that Westwood would be inspired by this idea of freedom and rebelling from public approval.  Her Jubilee t-shirt even looks like The Lesson, one of Guston’s cartoon paintings.
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Philip Guston.  The Lesson, 1975.  Oil on canvas, 67 1/4″ x 71 1/2″.  Image courtesy of http://www.phillipscollection.org
 
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 Vivenne Westwood.  Union Jack Jubilee T-shirt, $360.  Image courtesy of http://www.viviennewestwood.co.uk

GHTime Code(s): nc 

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