Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet
October 16th, 2012

The Importance of Museums, Libraries, & Friends

Today’s post is filled with gratitude for three of my favorite things: friends, libraries, and museums.  I never tire of good company and things that stimulate the mind.  Thankfully, I never seem to be lacking any of these!  I’ve been writing a lot about collaboration between creative people in the 1940s recently: Marcel Vertès, Wesley Simpson, and John Little.  My dear friend Lizzie Bramlett collaborated with me for this post.  She read the aforementioned posts and sent me these images from the January 1946 edition of American Fabrics:

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January 1946 edition of American Fabrics.  Image courtesy of Lizzie Bramlett.

American Fabrics was a trade magazine.  It focused on the all of the interesting aspects of the American textile industry: artist collaborations, fashion designers, manufacturers, industrial uses of fabric, automobile interiors, and furniture.  It was an oversized periodical, sort of like W Magazine of today, and featured lavish artwork and real textile swatches.  I was first introduced to this magazine at the FIT library.  Seeing artwork paired with real textiles filled me with joy and excitement.  I literally couldn’t stop looking at the magazines.  I spent hours and hours paging through volumes of these precious magazines.  It was endlessly entertaining, and all for free!  (Libraries are really good sources for free entertainment.  You can rent movies, cds, and books with your card.  All you have to do is fill out a form and return the items on time.)

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January 1946 edition of American Fabrics.  Image courtesy of Lizzie Bramlett.

The article that Lizzie sent me is about the same Marcel Vertès print in my pervious post that is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s collection.  Here is what the article says:

“I was bowled over when I saw what American fabric and dress designers did with museum objects as inspiration” . . . from an article by Cora Carlyle in Women’s Reporter

“One of the most exciting fashion events of 1945 was undoubtedly the descent of 22 famous designers on the Metropolitan Museum of Art in search of design inspiration.  When the finished fashions were show to the public, it was obvious that the designers had unearthed a pot of gold.  Combing the rooms and archives of the Museum, they had come away with sketch pads crowded to the edges with precious ideas.

Thus they glamorized fabric and fashion in the finest sense of the word, and on the highest level.  The demonstration contributed materially to the fashion industry . . . to the public . . . to the Museum.  It delineated the living qualities of Museum art in practical form.  It educated the public to an appreciation of art as it can be applied to everyday living.

So let’s go to the museums more often . . . let’s encourage our designers to closer rapport between art and industry . . . let’s have art IN industry . .  . to the mutual benefit of both.  Over $780,000,000 worth of design ideas are waiting to be tapped.  Let’s profit by the world’s great art in museums.

(I couldn’t agree more!!!!!!!!!!)

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January 1946 edition of American Fabrics.  Image courtesy of Lizzie Bramlett.


Vertès was inspired by the Flemish Angel painting above, which he turned into a textile print  for Wesley Simpson, used by Hattie Carnegie for a dress.

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Marcel Vertès textile design for for Wesley Simpson, 1944.  Used for dress design by Hattie Carnegie.  Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

 All of these amazing things are at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  This museum lists a suggested donation, but you can contribute as little or as much as you want.  I always give something – as much as I can afford – because I want it’s doors to stay open as long as possible.
Like the American Fabrics article suggests, we can profit from the resources around us.  Libraries, museums, the internet, good friends, mentors – they are all sources of inspiration.  The key is to recognize these resources, apply them to everyday life – and show your support!

GHTime Code(s): nc 


April 25th, 2011

Art Improves the Quality of Life

Full Fathom Five by Jackson Pollock, 1947.

This week, I’ve revisited one of my favorite readings.  It’s a chapter from Lars Svendsen’s book FASHION: A PHILOSOPHY.  The chapter is simply called FASHION & ART.  There is a huge philosophical debate on whether or not fashion is an art form and where the bad rap comes from.  Fashion forefathers Charles Fredrick Worth and Paul Poiret are quoted, clearly bellowing that they are more than dressmakers – they are artists.

Some critics say that fashion could never be considered art.  It has no body of criticism; it is too associated with the market and consumers; the value of the work is lost in mass production.

But then I wonder, are the critics contradicting themselves?

There is a body of criticism – those that say fashion is not art.

Art is also associated with the market and consumers, more so now than ever before.

Art is reproduced at an alarming rate, and yet nothing compares to seeing a painting in person.

The best advice I received from this reading is the following:

Rather than asking whether something is art, we ought to ask the question as to what

extent it is GOOD or RELEVANT art.

Svendsen, 107.

 

JACKSON POLLOCK (1912-1956) Untitled, c. 1949

 

In conversation, I find that many people are repulsed by post-modern art.  Abstract art is difficult to comprehend.  Is it good?  How can you tell if it’s well done – it’s just paint splattered everywhere.  But there is something so compelling about abstract art.  The color, the power of the brush strokes, the unusual geometry.  Somehow, I seem to related everything back to fashion.  Couldn’t this painting make an interesting textile print?  Of maybe the color pallet can inspire my new summer wardrobe.

Art, in it’s best capacity, moves us to incorporate it into our daily lives – even when we

don’t fully understand it.

 

Fashion Study with painting by Jackson Pollock. Vogue, 1951 by Cecil Beaton.

 

Vogue Editorial on Pollock. March 1951.
Blogger Tavi Garrison Adapting Pollock for Fashion. April, 2010.
Detail. April 2010.

 

Galatea of the Spheres by Salvador Dali, 1952.

 

 

 

Dress Design by Adrian. Textile Design by Salvador Dali, 1947.

 

 

Dress Design by Adrian. Textile Design by Salvador Dali. 1947.
Tears Evening Dress by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938. Textiles by Salvador Dali.

 

Lobster Evening Dress by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1937. Textile Design by Salvador Dali.
Wallis Simpson in the Lobster Dress.
Wallis Simpson in the Lobster Gown, sitting.
Cover of American Fabrics Magazine, Fall 1950.

 

 

Composition with Gray and Light Brown by Piet Mondrian, 1918

 

 

Composition with Red, Yellow and Blue by Piet Mondrian, 1921.

 

 

Composition #10 by Piet Mondrian, 1939.

 

 

YSL Dress Inspired by Mondrian.

 

 

Mondrian Inspired YSL Dress, Photo: Sipa Press/Rex Features.

 

 

 

Yves St. Laurent Exhibit. De Young Museum, 2009.

 

 

Galliano Inspired by Picasso.

 

 

Elie Saab’s Inspired by Chuck Close.

 

 

Miyake Inspired by Matisse.

 

Art improves the quality of life.  Enjoy it, wherever you find it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

GHTime Code(s): nc 

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