Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet
April 1st, 2013

Joan Mitchell

Teaching doesn’t come with an instruction manual.  I’d never planned to be a teacher.  Yet almost four years ago, I found myself in front of a classroom.  To say that I was anxious would be an understatement.  Luckily, it got easier with practice.  The very first course I taught was called Fashion Seminar at FIDM.  Part theory, part portfolio development, I was responsible for teaching fashion theory along with art.  The portfolio consisted of a series of art assignments.  The learning outcome was to take an inspiration source and create new and meaningful artwork from it. Each week, we would have a new focus: collage, found object, textile design, and so forth.  There was one assignment that initially gave me any problems.  It was called multiple sensory.

 

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Untitled by Joan Mitchell, 1969.  Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

I understood the concept.  Say your inspiration source is a tree.  How does it feel to touch its bark?  Try drawing that sensation.  Obviously, there is no “wrong” way to do this assignment.  Yet it caused so much confusion the first time I tried to explain this to the students.  For me, this was frustrating.  I didn’t seem to have the right words to explain the desired result.  But then, I remembered learning about synesthesia.  I decided to do a little research and present my findings to the class.

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Detail. Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

Synesthesia is a neurologically-based condition in which stimulation of one sensory pathway leads to automatic, involuntary experiences in a second sensory pathway. Synesthetes, those that have synesthesia, will see colors when they hear sound or touch objects.  (I’ve written about this before!  Please read my post Synesthesia in Art & Fashion.  It’s one of my favorites!)  When I research, I go to libraries and book stores.  I build a sort of book fort around myself, and get lost in thought for hours.  I stumbled across several great books, but the best one was a small catalog called Synesthesia: Art & the Mind.  It’s fantastic, and I have a copy in my personal collection.

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Untitled by Joan Mitchell, 1978.  Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

This catalog is how I became acquainted with Joan Mitchell.  And it was love at first sight!  There is a small essay by Patricia Albers in this catalog, and it explains all about Joan Mitchell and how her synesthesia influenced her paintings.  Albers explains:

Joan Mitchell had several forms of synesthesia, including personality-color synesthesia, in which other people induce colors . . .

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 Heel, Sit, Stay by Joan Mitchell, 1977.  Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

It turns out that Mitchell also had “colored-hearing” synesthesia, or that she would see shapes and colors while listening to music.  She also has eidetic memory (aka photographic memory) which means that instead of remembering, she would quite literally relive the past.  Albers goes on to explain:

” ‘I carry my landscapes around with me’ she often said, in the form of images that ‘roosted inside’ her.   As involved as she was with trees, rivers, fields, clouds, weather, and so on, she did not work out-of-doors, but rather mentally ‘framed’ whatever spoke to her: ‘the motion is made still like a fish trapped in ice.  It is trapped in the painting.  My mind is like an album of photographs and paintings.’ “

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Tilleul by Joan Mitchell, 1978.  Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

Lehigh University currently has a show on Joan Mitchell’s work.  It doesn’t touch on her synesthesia, but I sat in front of these large scale works and just marveled at them.  I really enjoyed the painting above. This canvas just looks like a tree to me.  I stared at it for a while, wondering if I was looking up at branches.  It was like going for a walk through Mitchell’s personal landscape.  This painting really made me happy.  And there was just so much to look at!  It’s even more magical up-close.  Look at the details:

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Details. Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

 

When I explained synesthesia and showed Mitchell’s artwork to my students, I saw a drastic improvement on the work they produced.  There is a really freeing sense that developed in my classroom.  Everyone can experiencing a merging of the senses to some degree.  But the very idea stimulates creativity.  Sensations, emotions – they aren’t logical, nor do they possess a recognizable visual form.  So relating feelings and perceptions to colors and forms in art was almost liberating to the students.  Their creations didn’t have to look like anything, but there was always a recognizable correlation to their inspiration.

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Untitled by Joan Mitchell, c. 1952.  Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

As I walked through the Mitchell exhibit, I had the real sense of experiencing nature.  A tree, a leaf, branches, flowers, rain, sunshine through a window – I had the sensations of experiencing it the way Mitchell must have.  This painting made me think of blossoming flowers.  At first, I saw one large flower.  But as I approached the canvas, it seemed there were small flowers scattered about.

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Detail. Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University.

 

It reminded me of the critiques I had with my students in LA.  Somehow, it all makes sense.  If you are in the Bethlehem area, please drop in to see the show!  It is at the Zoellner Art Center until May 2013.

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Untitled by Joan Mitchell, 1992.  Image courtesy of the Joan Mitchell Foundation, Cheim & Read Gallery, and Lehigh University. 

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December 19th, 2012

Art’s Influence on Fashion: Franz Kline & Steve Martin

While finding images for yesterday’s post on Franz Kline, I came across this photo of Steve Martin.  He is standing in front of Rue, a painting by Kline.
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Photo of Steve Martin in front of Rue by Franz Kline.  Photograph by Annie Leibovitz.
Steve Martin owned this painting sometime in the late 1970s.  He said that: “he had always wanted to be part of it”.  The photo is Martin’s attempt at realizing this goal.  A white suit and gloves are covered in black paint, mimicking Rue:

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Rue by Franz Kline, 1959.  Image courtesy of Fifty Two Pieces.
Fashion photographer Annie Leibovitz took the photo of Steve Martin in Beverly Hills.  Leibovitz’s photos of Martin dressed as a Kline painting  appeared in a 1981 issue of Rolling Stone magazine.
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December 18th, 2012

Franz Kline

Last week, I went to Franz Kline: Coal & Steel.  Abstract Expressionism is one of my favorite types of painting.  Generally, I think of this movement being based around New York.  But Franz Kline (1910-1962) was from Northeastern Pennsylvania.

 

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Mahoning by Franz Kline, 1956. Oil and paper collage on canvas. 80 x 100 in. (203.2 x 254 cm).  Image courtesy of The Franz Kline Estate via The Whitney Museum.
Kline was best know for his large scale minimalist paintings.  The canvases were black and white, with large gestural brush strokes.   I always imagined the works were influenced by Asian art – particularly Japanese calligraphy.
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I also assumed that Kline was influenced by other abstract painters.  However, curator Dr. Robert S. Mattison argues that these black and white paintings were influenced by Kline’s memories of Pennsylvania.  Considering that Kline’s hometown of Wilkes-Barre was in the heart of coal country, I see this connection immediately.

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Untitled by Franz Kline, 1957.  Image courtesy of The Franz Kline Estate via the New York Times.
The large canvases have a gritty feeling.  The stark contrast between the white and black give the idea of something being dirtied.  Coal mining produces a layer of soot that covers everything.  Mining towns in Pennsylvania were covered in layers of coal dust, and many miners died from black lung diseased (caused by breathing in large quantities of coal dust).

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Architectural and industrial references can also be seen in this large abstract paintings.  Kline studied as a draughtsman in London in the late 1930s.  Knowing this, you can start to see simplified lines of buildings and other manmade landscapes.  Above, I see a bridge running from left to right, supported by large pillars and support beams. This connection to architecture is further strengthened by examples of Kline’s earlier representation work.

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Pennsylvania Landscape by Franz Kline, 1948. Image courtesy of The Morning Call.
Before Kline joined the Abstract Expressionist group that congregated in New York, he painted landscapes from Northeastern Pennsylvania.  I grew up not far from this area, and these scenes are so familiar.  Small towns, built with wood and steel, in a picturesque landscape.  The natural environment is dotted with signs of man: telephone poles, cables, train tracks, and bridges.  There are so many small towns, just like the picture above.  They housed steel, coal, and textile workers.  I’m not sure what these towns were like in Kline’s day, but they still echo a similar feeling.  They’re isolated, a bit neglected, and now even poorer as the major industries that supported the towns have been outsourced.
Chatham Square by Franz Kline, 1948.  Image courtesy of Wikipaintings.
Childhood memories definitely impact what you’re drawn to in the future.  Even the painting of Chatham Square above looks like it could be a small town in Pennsylvania.  An entrance to a factory or covered walkway leading to a train.  It has the same sort of composition as so many “townscapes” in Pennsylvania, even though it was painting in New York.
The vertical orange shapes that make up the covered staircase and crisscrossed gray trellis underneath the bridge were painted so carefully.   They seem to be replicated in more abstract forms in this later  Untitled painting by Kline:
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Untitled by Franz Kline, 1953.  Image courtesy of Wikipaintings.
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Chief Train by Franz Kline, 1942.  Image courtesy of The Allentown Art Museum via Art & Coin TV
There seems to be a strong connection to all of Kline’s work, even though his style changed.  Chief Train (above) shows a locomotive.  Le Gros (below) seems to be a closeup for the train track, no?
Le Gros by Franz Kline, 1961.  Image courtesy of Flickr
 
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June 30th, 2012

John Little’s Textile Designs

Hearing from my readers is always exciting!  This morning, I received a message about two John Little original textile designs for sale on eBay.  Little was an abstract expressionist painter in Postwar New York, but during the depression he operated a textile and wall paper studio to earn an income.  (For more on Little’s painting, click here to read my previous post)

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Here you can see examples of Little’s textile designs, which he painted with gouache on paper.   It was not uncommon for artists to design textiles in the Postwar economy.  Salvador Dali designed textiles, and did exclusive designs for Elsa Schiaparelli, Adele Simpson, and Gilbert Adrian.  The Onondaga Silk Company also commissioned an American Artist series in the late 1940s.
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 There is a stark contrast between Little’s paintings and textile designs.  The textile designs are much more traditional and in line with mid-century fashion.
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Little also collaborated with Greeff, an English textile company now owned by F. Schumacher & Co:
Greeff had pioneered the introduction of elaborate themed colletions, intended for the high-end interior decorator trade since the 1940s, featuring patters by designers such as Marion Dorn, John Little, Dan Rasmassen, and Dagmar Wilson.  These continued to form a key element of the company’s repertoire, along with period ranges, such as American Legacy.  (Jackson, Lesley.  Twentieth Century Pattern Design.  New York: Princeton Architetural Press, 2002, 117.)

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Judging from the markings on the back, Little must have offered textile designs directly from his studio for purchase.
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All images courtesy of consign2you

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June 7th, 2012

John Little

Fashion and art are undeniably intertwined .  Collaborations between artists and designers always fascinate me.  My previous posts on Sonia Delaunay, Salvador Dali, and color field paintings explore this.  But what really captivates me is an individual who can participate in both spheres on their own.  Abstract expressionist artist John Little did exactly this.

 

John Little Untitled #1, 1948. Image courtesy of thomasmccormick.com/

 

John Little (1907-1984) was a student of Hans Hofmann and painted with Jackson Pollock in post-war New York.  Lisa N. Peters of Spanierman Modern describes his work quite succinctly:

His canvases are characterized by dynamic and explosive movements, conveying the searching, restlessness of his era, yet he also brought them a sense of resolution and balance.  For Little, the picture plane was akin to a magnetic field, and he contained opposing forces, of buoyancy and gravity, of varying densities of form and color, of splintering and fusion, and of pressure and release through a process of animated involvement that is evident in his charged surfaces.

 

John Little Cascading Forms, 1954. Image courtesy of thomasmccormick.com

Looking through Little’s paintings, I felt the sense of floating through color.  Some invoked a sense of restlessness, and others, like Cascading Forms, seemed soothing.  The different emotional responses made me want to read more of what Peters had written on Little.  She explained in the catalog that Little had designed textiles in the late 1920s.  This caught my attention.

John Little, Diver, 1983. Image courtesy of janeeckertfineart.com

In 1928, the John Little Studios: Fabric & Wallpaper Design was opened in New York.  This studio grew to a staff of 12, and remained open through the early 1950s.  Textile design allowed Little to survive the Great Depression.  He was able to operate the business and paint in his spare time.

 

John Little (1907-1984) "Ominous Night," 1951. Image courtesy of Spanierman Modern.

Dressing is such an emotional process.  Designers want to help clients feel a certain way in clothing.  During the time that Little operated the textile studio, many women made their own dresses.  Thus, Little had to be aware of how women wanted to present themselves.  His time designing textiles must have made him sensitive to the psychological component of fashion.   This also appears in Little’s paintings.

Now if only I could find examples of his textile designs!  The search begins . . .

 

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