Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet

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February 20th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Vivienne Westwood: Do It Yourself

A few weeks ago, I got to watch the documentary Vivienne Westwood: Do It Yourself.   I’m a HUGE Vivienne Westwood fan.  If was only allowed to wear the designs of one person, I would definitely pick Vivienne Westwood.  Part of why I like her looks so much is that they are very feminine, very artistic, while still having an element of rebellion.  (New to my site?  You should also look at my post Philip Guston & Vivienne Westwood) Really, I didn’t know much about her personality before watching the documentary.  But now I really love her!  She is so intelligent, sassy, and kind.

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The film follows Westwood around for the period of 1 year.  It’s a really intimate look at her daily life.  She actually starts designing each collection the same way that Madeline Vionnet did – with half-sized mannequins (see the image below).  She explains this is a particularly helpful method to use when she doesn’t know where to start.  She will simple take muslin and start cutting and draping it over the tiny form.

 

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She talks about knowing the past and building cumulative knowledge.  No experience is a waste.  She explains:

“The more you know about what hasn’t been done, the more you know the story you can tell.  The art is that its trial and error, it is a building up. That’s what technique is, a building up to know what will work and develop.”  

 

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Next, Westwood rides her bicycle in heels to her afternoon signing lesson.  Aside from being amazingly charming, you start to get a sense of how intelligent she is.  Westwood is committed to lifelong learning. This is exemplified in her singing lessons, but she also starts to discuss serious subjects like history, literature, and art.  She has a clear philosophy designing and life in general.  I like that she doesn’t see life and work as separate things:

“You have to try to understand the world.  If you can, then you have an anchor.  You can make a story from it.  It inhabits a certain world of possibilities.”

 

British designer Vivienne Westwood arrives at the end of her Spring/Summer 2010 collection in Paris

 

 

She goes on to explain how a lot of her designs are influenced by Aldous Huxley.  This British author said that the world suffers from three evils: Nationalistic Idolatry, Non-Stop Distraction, Organized Lying.  These three evils are the root of propaganda.  Westwood really takes these to heart, and agrees that the worst evil is non-stop-distraction.  She uses these ideas to form her collection.  She tries to design clothing that is an active resistance against propaganda.  

 

 

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Her clothing is really fun.  It mixes and matches classic tartans and argyle patterns with street style elements.  Some fabrics have graffiti like scribbles.  The shoes have impossible buckles and straps.  Pretty much everything I love all rolled into one outfit.

 

 

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But she really had me when she explained how she felt about art: “If art is alive, the world will change.  No art?  No progress. ” I couldn’t agree more.

 

 

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January 21st, 2013 by Monica Murgia

George Bellows & The Ashcan School

The George Bellows show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art really blew me away this weekend.  I worked at an art gallery for some time, and learned about the Ashcan School of painters.   Founded by Robert Henri (1865–1929) around 1900, this group of painters focused on depicting scenes as they were (Realism) instead of in the dreamy, staccato way of the American Impressionists.

Henri believed that painters needed to depict everyday subjects in an interesting and honest way: “What we need is more sense of the wonder of life, and less of this business of picture making.”  

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Summer Night, Riverside Drive by George Bellows, 1908.  Image courtesy of allpaintings.org

 

Members of the Ashcan School became instantly recognizable for their lavish use of black paint.  Black paint had pretty much been eliminated by the American Impressionist palette, although it was used heavily by the Old Masters like Rembrandt, Frans Hals, and Goya.  Contemporaries of the Ashcan school affectionally called them the “Revolutionary Black Gang” or the ” Ash Can Group” (hence the name).

 

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Stag at Sharkey’s by George Bellows, 1909.  Image courtesy of cleveland.about.com

George Bellows (1882-1925) was originally from Ohio.  He moved to New York to continue his study of painting.  Bellows met Henri shortly after arriving and started to study with him.  Henri encouraged Bellows to depict scenes of contemporary life, even if  the compositions and subjects challenge prevailing standards of taste. Bellows focused on impoverished immigrants in New York, especially children in “squalid and dangerous slums”.

 

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Cliff Dwellers by George Bellows, 1913.  Image courtesy of The Tenement Museum.

 

Bellows is really my favorite painter from the Ashcan School.  He has an amazing sense of value and color.  All of the paintings have so many harmonious colors, and really express a sense of light and dark.  The canvases are so luminous, they seem to have a radiant light source within.  One of my favorite paintings in the show was called Noon.  

Of course I’m partial to it because of all the blue paint, but you can definitely see how there are areas of light and dark.  The bridge and how it casts shadows over parts of the canvas, the dark areas with figures in the shade, and even the billowing smoke – just take a look at how masterfully they are all done:

 

 

1908 Noon oil on canvas 55.9 x 71.1 cm

 

 Noon by George Bellows, 1908.  

There were so many great depictions of New York City.  In addition to his sensitivity to color, Bellows was an amazing draftsman.  He carefully outlines shapes within the composition.  Almost all of the paintings have a balanced foreground, middle, and background.  And the subjects just seem to come alive, with all the care and detail with which they are painted.

 

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New York by George Bellows, 1911.

But really, the best part of seeing all of these paintings was the opportunity to look at Bellows’s brushstrokes.  It’s really difficult to see in photographs and images.  That’s why going to museums and galleries are so important.  There is a really, tangible experience of the painting that you just don’t get by looking at on the internet or in a book.  As someone that paints, it’s a special learning tool to see how other people push paint around the canvas.

 

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The Palisades by George Bellows, 1909.  Image courtesy of the Tate.

As I looked at certain paintings, I noticed that Bellows directed the paint to follow the specific object he was painting.  So for example, the water is painted horizontally and the tree is painted vertically.  Take a look at smoke in the upper right hand corner.  It’s really easy to see that Bellows swirls the paint around to mimic the way smoke billows in the wind.  So pretty!

 

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Snow Capped River by George Bellows, 1911.  Image courtesy of the Telfair Museum.

Snow Capped River was another favorite.  You MUST see it in person.  The image above doesn’t even hint at what a beautiful work of art it really is.  Bellows also changed the thickness of paint within his compositions.  Certain areas are very flat, with thin layers of paint, and others are thick and impasto.

The George Bellows exhibit is at the Metroplitan Museum of Art until February 18th, 2013.  Don’t miss it – the show is included with general admission!

 

 

 

 

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January 19th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Acanthus & Central Park

So much to do, so little time! I paint as a hobby, and am looking forward to getting some inspiration before going back to my studio.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art has two stellar shows right now, one on George Bellows, and another in Matisse.

I promise to write more about these exhibits after I take them in. I’m really looking forward to seeing how these two artists paint landscapes and other nature inspired scenes.

I’m not sure what paintings are in the shows, but Bellows painted many scenes of New York. When I spend time in the city, I always love going to Central Park and Riverside Drive. These are two places Bellows loved, and referred to park settings as an “urban oasis”.

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Matisse liked to paint in a completely different style, but I like his paintings of trees so much. (I’m really partial to painting trees. They are my favorite subject!). His Acanthus painting is really beautiful, such strong hues of green and purple paired together make me smile.

I’m hoping that both of these paintings are at the museum. They have a similar color palette, which would be interesting to look at in person.

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January 18th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Fortuny: An Artist That Paints Textiles

One of my New Year’s Resolutions was to visit a new place every month this year.  I love traveling, and have a few distant and exotic destinations on the list.  But adventure doesn’t  always have to be reserved to foreign locales.  In fact, I always make it a point to live each day as if I was charting undiscovered territory.  

That’s one of the many reasons I love New York so much.  Every step I take in this city is filled with discovery, beauty, and adventure.  Yesterday, I ventured over to the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute to see the exhibition on Fortuny.

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Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871 – 1949) was a Spanish artist and designer.  He was one of the leaders in liberating women from the corset during the 1910s.  Fortuny was a real Renaissance man and loved to learn.  He collected and read ancient manuscripts and rediscovered an ancient way of pleating fabrics.  He started to use this pleating to make gowns inspired by ancient Greek sculptures.

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I’d learned a bit about this famous designer in school, and was thrilled to have the opportunity to attend this exhibit.  Curated by Oscar de la Renta, I knew the show would be a real treat.  I was not disappointed.  A majority of the collection was on loan from private collectors, including Vintage Luxury.  I really encourage everyone to see this before it closes on March 30th, because the pictures do not even begin to do the actual garments justice.

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There was so much about Fortuny that I didn’t know.  He was a descendent of the Madrazo family, which consisted of artists, curators, and  collectors.  Art was an intregral part of life for the Madrazo clan, and it deeply influenced Fortuny’s creativity.

Fortuny himself declared, “I have always had many interests, but I have always considered painting to be my profession.

He painted beautiful portraits, experimented heavily with photography, and collected art and objects himself.  This paved the way for him to design textiles and design garments.

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In 1906, Fortuny designed costumes for the Ballet for the Countess Bearn’s theater opening .  The dancers wore his Knossos dresses, which were seen publicly for the first time.  He then began producing dresses that referenced classical Greek sculptures, like the Delphos dress, in 1907.   Fortuny kept his masterful pleating a trade secret, and was able to obtain a patent for the design in 1909.  These dresses were stored by coiling them in a small box.  When the pleates disappeared from wear, the dress would get sent back to Fortuny’s atelier for re-pleating.

 

 

 

 

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The influence of Greek sculpture is pretty obvious.  Yet Fortuny loved to travel and incoporated influences from various cultures into single ensembles or dresses.  Exotic, orientalist themes are present, like kimono sleeves.  His North African travels were always focused around documenting customs related to dress and photography. Fortuny also painted designs onto voided velvet scarves, which were then draped over his dresses to look like Indian saris.

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Fortuny was originaly from Granada, Spain.  He moved to Venice, where he operated his business.  The Plazzo Orfei the location of the main workshops.  He also had smaller textile printing locations on the nearby island of Giudecca.  Italian influences are also scene in his garments, like the beautiful drawstring closures and embelishments trimmed with Venetian glass beads.

 

 

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He also created textile patterns based on traditional Italian paintings.  These prints included were on cotton and velvets.  Many of the designs, like the melagrana design, are still available from the Fortuny company.

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The operations soon expanded to paper and paints under the name Societa Anonima Fortuny.  The gorgeous logo (below) was taken from sketchbook for Jacopo Bellini a 15th century Venetian painter that also designed textiles.

 

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The clothes really speak for themselves, but gained a lot of attention in their heyday as well.  Vogue stated in 1912 that Fortuny was  ”an artist who paints fabrics” and in 1923  ”a great artist, with exquisite textiles as his medium”.  I couldn’t agree more!

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All images are courtesy of The Queen Sofia Spanish Institute.  The exhibit Fortuny Y Madrazo: An Artistic Legacy runs until March 30th, 2013.

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January 13th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Menswear: Style Notes

The adventure in menswear continues.  Several weeks ago, my friend Adam asked me what types of shoes he would wear with a tuxedo.  I did a lot of research, and was fascinated to learn all about monkstraps.  These are dress shoes that fasten with a strap and buckle.  Some have two buckles (double monks) and others have a single fastening.

I think hardware closures are so interesting on clothing and shoes.  Aside from it being an interesting combination of materials, buckle fastenings make the shoe sleeker.  There are no obnoxious laces to deal with or detract from the quality of the leather. Monkstraps are definitely a shoe that will turn my head. 

 

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I was scurrying to work in Manhattan on a blusteringly windy, cold day this week.  I pulled the hood of my jacket up.  I’d also forgotten my sunglasses in my car that morning.  I tried my best to not directly look at the sun.  Since I was looking at the pavement, I noticed someone wearing a really great pair of monkstrap shows.  A great pair of shoes always makes my heart skip a beat, but it was especially great to see a beautiful pair of men’s shoes.  I had to pay the wearer a compliment!

 

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Double monks in ox blood leather by Mezlan.

That’s how I met Choy, a financial advisor for Ernst & Young.  As I talked to him about his shoes, I couldn’t help but notice what a superb dresser he was.  We chatted briefly, and he agreed to let me interview him about his styles.  He was kind enough to take me to some of his favorite places to shop, and share some advice on style.  Here are my notes:

  • Dare to be different: It’s important to personalize your look.  This can be difficult to do in corporate culture.  Suits and ties are necessary.  But dress codes don’t mean you have to look generic.  Try selecting an unusual print for a tie.  Spice things up by pairing interesting color combinations with your shirt and tie.   A variety of colors and textures within your suit, shirt, and tie is a great way to show your personality while looking professional.  Pair a lavender herringbone twill shirt with a bold royal purple tie.   Don’t be afraid of mixing and matching.  Just determine which colors and patterns work for you.  Thomas Pink offers some high quality shirts in interesting fabrics.  The fit is also very precise, because the measurement for the arms is only one size (34 versus 34/35).

 

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  • Accessorize: Great style is all in the details.  This rule applies to everyone.  Ties, cufflinks, belts, briefcases - whatever your signature accessory is, buy the best you can afford.  Accessories tend to last much longer, because they don’t receive the same vigorous wear and tear as garments.  High quality accessories will make any suit look polished.  They are a great avenue  to introducing bold pops of color.  We spent some time discussing ties.  A wider tie tends to be more traditional, while a skinnier tie is contemporary and fun.
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 Again, at Thomas Pink, there were some great options.  My preference were for the ties in conversational prints.  Conversational prints refer to textiles that use recognizable symbols and images in the design.  These prints started to be produced in the 1800s, and have evolved considerably since then.  Their main purpose, as the name suggests, is to invite conversation with someone that notices the detail.
My picks?  The Elephant Parade in an orange foreground with green and blue elephants, and an Octopus in navy blue.  I was curious to see what Choy recommended.  He selected the Davenport Flower in pink and blue.
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While discussing ties, he also mentioned the importance of matching cufflinks.  So elegant!  Just remember, cufflinks require french cuff shirts.  French cuffs are twice as long as normal barrel cuffs, so they can be folded back and secured with the cufflink. Traditional barrel cuffs close with a button.

 

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  • Befriend an expert tailor: Fit is everything.  Buying clothes off the rack has certain limitations.  This is because of the production process.  Garments are based off of the proportions of a fit model, who is selected because they have the ideal proportions of the company’s target demographic.  That is why sizes vary from brand to brand.  Yet even when you find a brand that caters to your body type, alterations may be needed.  Having an expert tailor is really critical to ensuring that your clothes fit your body properly.  We took a walk over to Imparali Custom Tailors, Choy’s tailor of choice.

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I absolutely loved this company.  A family owned operation, Imparali will expertly tailor and promptly finish pieces from your wardrobe.  But the best part is they can custom make anything your heart desires.  If you’ve read my blog before, you know how much I love custom made garments.  (New to my site?  Please read all about The Stieg Collection, a wonderful project I’m working on).

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Imparali Custom Tailors has operated since 1967.  They have excellent relationships with the world’s best textile mills.  They source their fabrics from mills primarily in England and Italy, and have over 10,000 fabric samples.  I could have stayed for hours, pouring over the sample books.  Imparali offers very impressive fabric quality.  Several of their suppliers also produce fabrics for Valentino.

Matt Harpalani explained how his father started the business.  They are passionate about offering the highest quality garments.  After taking the client’s measurements and selecting fabrics, the garments are made in workshop.  Imparali own their own factory, so they can carefully monitor the quality of each item.  No garment is ever sent to a third party contractor.

 

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There were so many fabrics to chose from!  No detail is left unnoticed when Imparali makes your clothes. You can select fabrics in different weights that are appropriate for suiting, lining, shirts, and trim.  I was quite taken with some of the collar lining fabrics (above).

After looking at all the fabric, the inevitable happened.  I started dreaming up my own wardrobe.  While Imparali doesn’t make women’s clothing, they allow you to purchase yardage of the sumptuous textiles.  I’m definitely planning to place a few orders so I can make something myself. The fabrics below are on my wish list:

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Special thanks to Choy for allowing me to interview him.

Images courtesy of Thomas Pink (1155 Avenue of the Americas, New York City) and Imparali Custom Tailors (608 Fifth Avenue, New York City)

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January 7th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Menswear: Courrèges Homme

A few weeks ago, I was lucky enough to find a dress designed by André Courrèges.  It was one of my most exciting finds.  I never dreamed of finding something by such an iconic designer.  It’s like getting struck by lightening – within the realm of possibilities, but highly unlikely to occur.  Well, lightening struck me twice, because this Saturday I found a jacket by Courrèges Homme.

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Courrèges trained under Cristobal Balenciaga from 1950 to 1960.  Learning from such a master influenced Courrèges for a long time.  After working for Balenciaga for 10 years, Courrèges opened his own house, Maison de Courrèges.  His designs always focus on comfort, simplicity, and precision – much of what he learned from Balenciaga.  During the 1960s, Courrèges became well-know for innovative silhouettes.  He was among the first to show a mini skirt in a couture show and introduced “moon boots” in 1964.  Moon boots are white, flat heeled, calf length boots.  Courrèges continued to innovate fashion throughout the 1960s and 1970s.  His Space Age collection in 1968 featured clothing that was simple, futuristic, and used lots of industrial hardware.

 

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Ensemble and Moon Boots by André Courrèges, c. 1965.  Images are courtesy of the permanent collection of the Powerhouse Museum.

It wasn’t until 1973 that Courrèges started designing menswear under the division Courrèges Homme. Like most men’s fashion, it seems that Courrèges Homme is mentioned only as a side note.  There are hundreds of articles and chronologies on his work, and they all only seem to list “1973, Courrèges Homme”.  So, I’ll have to rely mostly on looking at this menswear jacket and comparing it to the women’s wear labels to tell you more.

A major difference between the menswear line and womenswear is the logo used.  The menswear has an interlocked “a” and “c” monogram, referencing the designer’s initials.  Here the logo is on the left side as an embellishment, and it also appears on the label.

 

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This interlocking monogram only appeared on objects for men, from what I’ve seen.  I was able to locate images of the Courrèges Homme fragrance, and a pair of men’s pants that have a label.  The pants look to be much more recent that the jacket I found.

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Courrèges Homme aftershave.  Image courtesy of Profumomania

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Courrèges Homme label from pants.  Available for purchase on eBay.  Image courtesy of Mossvivace.
The labels from Courrèges’s womenswear are much different.  They have a different monogram, it’s more stylized and the letters are placed next to each other.  See the label below, courtesy of Fuzzy Lizzie via the Vintage Fashion Guild

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Some womenswear contains no monogram at all, like the dress I found.
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Regardless of gender, Courrèges liked to use industrial hardware in his designs. He used metal zippers, vinyl appliqué, and other non-traditional materials.  Instead of hiding zippers and seams, Courrèges liked to make him a focal point in a garment.  The jacket has a metal zipper with a circular pull tab – a detail so iconic of the designer.
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The jacket also has metal snaps at the collar, side pockets, and waistline.  These details enhance the overall silhouette by keeping the fabric streamlined to the body.  The metal also adds interest to the plain jacket.  You can see a similar approach to using hardware as a design element in Courrèges’s womenswear.  This pink jersey dress zips up the left side had has snaps to secure the belt and other embellishments.
Dress André Courrèges by Image courtesy of Shrimpton Couture.
Sadly, I wasn’t able to discover much regarding the history of Courrèges Homme.  A women’s line is still available online, but there is no mention about the menswear division.  (Sorry, guys!)  However, I found it really interesting to compare details between his garments for men and women.
If you have an information on  Courrèges Homme, please share in the comments!  I’d love to learn more.
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December 31st, 2012 by Monica Murgia

New Year’s Resolutions

There are certain times of the year when I re-evaluate where my life is headed.  Obviously, New Year’s Eve is one of them.  Setting resolutions and goals keeps me motivated.  They are the stepping stones to achieving dreams.  I always try to set a few small, easily obtainable resolutions, and a few that I will take persistence and dedication to realizing.  Here are some of my resolutions:

 

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Spend less, enjoy more.  Surprisingly, I’ve already started this resolution.  I love fashion.  To make a resolution that I won’t buy clothing or accessories would never hold up.  Fashion part of my career.  Fashion is my hobby.  It’s what I love!  However, the constant search for the “new” can be exhausting – mentally, emotionally, and financially.  Mobile apps and constant emails continually remind us that new, shiny, beautiful object of our desires is just one click away.

 

But really, how much do we need to consume to be happy?  Real happiness doesn’t come from material things.  Real happiness comes from a mindset, a connection to people you love, and the belief and contribution to something greater than yourself.  (That’s what this blog is all about.  Sharing what I believe in with all of you!)

To me, fashion is a representation of human ingenuity and creativity.  Fashion illustrates that we are constantly capable of new ways of thinking, expression, and action.  There is, however, an ugly side to the industry.  A large part of this is due to “fast fashion”, and worse, “disposable” fashion.  My resolution is to spend less – to enjoy the items I already have.  If something needs mending or alterations, to fix what I have instead of throwing it away.  And if I need something new, to buy a product that will last a long time.  It’s actually more fun this way.

 

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Simplify.  I travel a lot for work.  I’m also very visual.  Much of what I do revolves around organization.  Curating anything, art or fashion, means selecting the very best and eliminating the rest.  Personal belongings are no different.  It’s easy to accumulate things.  When my closet gets too full, or my room becomes chaos, I know it’s time to simply.

Owning too much, for me, becomes physically oppressive.  Objects require maintenance, storage, and space.  At a certain point, I start to feel that I am at the mercy of what I own, and not the other way around.  I’ve been feeling the need to simplify my belongings.  Over the next few weeks, I’m going to thin out everything.  It might be an interesting series of posts.  Would you like to see what I give away?

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Every month, go to one new place.  Travel is always at the top of my list.  However, my schedule and budget don’t always allow me to visit an exotic location.  This is one of my longer-term resolutions that will take a bit of dedication and persistence.  Every month, I am going to visit one new place.  I have 2 must-visit places this year: visiting my friend Susan in Colorado, and an excursion to Watkins Glenn.

These are two places I’ve wanted to visit for a very long time.  This is the year that I’ll finally make these trips a top priority.  What about the other 10 months?  Well, going somewhere new can be anywhere!  In January, I’ll finally head over to the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute in New York, a place I’ve never been.  Also, it’s a great excuse to start investigating local museums, businesses, and restaurants. Exploring doesn’t require a lot of money – just creativity.  So 2013 is going to be a year of discovering new places, near and far.

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Be kinder to my feet.  This might be the most difficult resolution of all.  I love high heels.  Yet all my traveling and commuting just don’t allow for impractical stilettos.  This year, I’m paying extra attention to the types of shoes that I wear.  I want to take small steps (hehe) to make my shoes more comfortable.

It’s easy to add inserts and small cushions to shoes.  Many well-crafted shoe brands also sell insole replacements.  I may have many pairs of shoes, but only have one pair of feet.  It’s time to stop the blisters and sky high pumps.  I’ve been making the transition over to boots with a modest heel.  (Completely flat shoes also cause me pain.  It’s all about finding that happy medium!)  I love my Doc Martens, which I’m still slowly breaking in.  Also new to my collection are these Steve Madden Tolteca boots.  They have a modest stacked heel, are real leather, and have excellent reviews for comfort.  They’ll be arriving sometime this week.  And they’re available on Lockerz for $42 with free shipping!  I’m already keeping my first resolution to spend less.

 

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December 24th, 2012 by Monica Murgia

A Thing for Stockings?

 

 

 

 

 

 

It has to be a really special occasion for me to wear stockings.  While I love the look and how sexy stockings can be, they definitely aren’t in my daily wardrobe rotation.  It seams that nearly every time I put a pair on, I somehow snag them and create a terrible hole or run.  Still, I will slip on a seamed pair of stockings every now and then.

Stockings weren’t always optional for women.  They were a necessity for any lady’s wardrobe.  And who better to recommend the perfect pair than Antonio Castillo?

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Yes, my collection extents into old magazine advertisements.  I recently acquired this 1947 ad, during which time Castillo was a designer for Elizabeth Arden’s Fashion Floor.  Illustrated by Rene Bouche, the beautiful ad issues Castillo’s fashion decree.  It reads:

‘Seam-free nylons belong to the new fashions’ says Castillo of Elizabeth Arden.  Elegance in Castillo’s after-dark suit, complemented by DANCING TWINS seam-free nylons.  Here is the stocking that enhances the leg, defining its loveliest lines! Now at better stores, under leading brand names.

Stockings were traditionally made of silk until 1940.  This was when nylon was introduced to the market.  Women demanded nylon stockings in droves, as they were less expensive than silk.  The demand for nylon stockings was so great that manufactures couldn’t keep up with the demand.  Then, America entered into World War II.  Nylon was rationed to make parachutes and other wartime supplies.  Women carefully mended and darned old stockings, or drew seams on the back with eyeliner or burnt cork.  These drawn lines mimicked the look of stockings.

After the war, stockings flooded the marketplace.  Designers, like Castillo, started to offer them as part of their merchandise in stores.

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Castillo started designing for the House of Lanvin in 1950.  He continued to offer stocking.  I have an original box for stockings Castillo offered while at Lanvin.  The box described the style as seamless, and size 8.5 medium.

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I’m not sure if the two pairs inside the box are really Lanvin-Castillo.  For starters, they are seamed.  They also read size 9.  But what is really interesting are the marking on the pair.  Fully fashioned refers to the cut of the stockings.  They were cut and constructed to fit the leg precisely – much in the way that a sweater is cut and constructed to fit the body.  Seamless stockings have no seam down the back, and have a reinforced toe and heel.  They aren’t shaped to fit the leg because they are made in circular knitting machines.  That’s why modern day tights and stockings have a tubular shape.

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These stockings also include more information.  Denier refers to the weight of the nylon fabric.  Denier describes the density of fibers, or thickness.

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December 11th, 2012 by Monica Murgia

École Martine

Floral textiles have definitely caught my interest lately.  I am surrounded by them every day that I work on the Stieg Collection.  The beautiful fabrics and interesting patterns have made a strong impression on me.  Aside from wearing (and buying) more floral prints, I’ve been thinking a lot about textiles.  In particular, I’ve been reflecting on the École Martine.
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                                     Textile by Atelier Martine.   Image courtesy of Shelley Davis
Paul Poiret (1879 – 1944) was a famous French couturier.  He first started designing for Jacques Doucet, then later for Charles Frederick Worth before finally creating his own house in 1904.  He was most noted his hobble skirts, lampshade tunics, and for liberating women from corsets.  Yet one of the most interesting aspects of his career was the launching of École Martine.  
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Textile by Atelier Martine.   Image courtesy Style Court via Cora Ginsburg
Poiret wisely anticipated the idea of a lifestyle brand, and wanted to offer home furnishings.  He decided to do this under the name Maison Martine, which acted as the retail space.   Maison Martine was supported by Ateilier Martine, the workshop, and the École Martine, an experimental art school that trained young, working-class girls.
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Floral printed textile by Atelier Martine, 1923.  Image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The art instructors would take the girls out to gardens and zoos in Paris.  They would sketch and draw outdoors, in natural light.  The best designs were purchased by Poiret, and were used in various designs by the craftsmen at the Atelier Martine.  At first, the Atelier Martine only produced textiles and wallpapers (similar business model to that of John Little).  It eventually expanded production to include ceramics, rugs, lighting, and later decorating services.

 

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Textile sample by Atelier Martine, c. 1911- 1923.  Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

École Martine is described as experimental because it was so different than other art schools of the time.  Academies for painting and the arts were usually for men, and had a rigorous structure.  Traditional art students had to learn life and figure drawing with complete photographic accuracy before moving on to develop a personal style.

 

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Textile design by Atelier Martine.  Image courtesy of Shelley Davis.

 

Poiret’s approach to his school was much different.  First, it was a school for girls and young women.  He encouraged the development of personal style.  The students were given total creative freedom.  They would draw or paint anything on their field trips to gardens, parks, and zoos.  Creative freedom and a natural environment are obvious sources of inspiration.  But I think the fact that Poiret would buy the best sketches to use for his designs was an extra incentive for the students to create quality work.

 

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Textile design by Atelier Martine.  Image courtesy of Shelley Davis.

The various textiles produced by Atelier Martine don’t fit neatly into the time period they were created.  They all seem quite modern for 1911-1923.  The patterns and designs seem to be from a much later time.  Some look like they are from the 1940s, and others from the 1960s.

 

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Textile sample by Atelier Martine, c. 1911- 1923.  Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
That’s one of the great things about schools, and particularly setup of École Martine.  Novice designers and arts offer a lot to their peers, teachers, and employers.  They offer simplicity of thought and a humbleness I affectionally call “beginner mind”.  They are not hindered by thoughts of professional standards, rules, or any limiting beliefs.  Instead, their curiosity takes over.  They try to formulate their own answers, unburdened by history or experience.  Beginner mind offers limitless possibilities.
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Textile sample by Atelier Martine, 1923.  Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

 

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December 10th, 2012 by Monica Murgia

The Importance of a Fashion Archive

Fashion evolves much like nature.  There are cycles of change, and evolution occurs over time.  There is as much variety among designers as there are between types of flowers.  Designers are able to maintain a recognizable brand identity because they draw on concepts and specialties that were developed in the past.   A fashion archive allows designers to reference past creations.  A well-done archive acts as a garment library, where designers can literally reference past ideas, construction techniques, and the use of fabrics in clothing.

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Fashion archives are especially useful for design and styling inspiration.  Most major design houses maintain an archive of all their designs.  When I was in graduate school, I worked in the Calvin Klein archives.  This archive was massive.  There were so many garments, starting from the late 1960s to present day.  Every runway ensemble, every sample, and just about anything that had been put into production was in the archive.  There were thousands of pieces, all of which had to be put into an order.

 

It was a massive project, and there were several women from the graduate program working to make the archive organized and accessible to the design team.  I can only imagine how massive the fashion archives for Lanvin or Chanel must be.  These are couture houses that have been in operation for a much longer span of time.

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Fashion archives are not limited to design houses.  Many museums have garment and textile collections. These institutions try to collect iconic garments that highlight technical expertise or illustrate a narrative about the past.  Museum exhibitions that showcase garments and textiles have been growing in popularity in recent years.  Critics have argued that these shows place “fluff over fine art”, but crowds respond to these exhibits because they place history and creativity in tangible forms.

 

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Fashion archives are critical learning tools for students.  Many fashion schools, like FIT and FIDM have created their own museums and study collections to use as teaching tools.  Students gain such a different understanding after working with physical garments.
The clothing not only illustrates construction techniques, but also serves as inspiration.  Much like established designers, students are able to examine, evaluate, and reconstruct the ideas and methods present in archived garments.  The Baum School of Art has such an extraordinary fashion archive after receiving The Stieg Collection.
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Working on The Stieg Collection really reinforces the importance of a fashion archive for me.  I’m constantly amazed by the expert craftsmanship and quality of material.  Since the collection spans from 1958 to 1968, the textile prints are colorful and use lots of floral motifs.  It’s become impossible for me not to notice subtle details in clothing when I shop.  Clothing today is very rarely made with this level of quality.  I’ve also noticed that the collection has started to influence my own personal style.  I’ve been gravitating towards dresses and shirts with colorful prints, like this sheath dress above.  It looks a lot like the dress I’m wearing today, don’t you think?

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All images (except the photo of me) are details from The Stieg Collection, courtesy of The Baum School of Art.

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December 9th, 2012 by Monica Murgia

Significant Others: Jasper Johns & Robert Rauschenberg

Relationships can have profound effects on our careers and the work that we produce.  Unhealthy relationships are harmful on so many levels.  Aside from the emotional damage, they can impose limitations on creativity, expression, and experimentation.  My post about Lee Krasner & Jackson Pollock illustrates this point.  After reading that essay, I was feeling pretty dismal about relationships.  Do they always have to impede personal development and growth?
Healthy relationships impact our creativity and professional careers, too.  Obviously the level of impact varies from couple to couple.  I’ve seen lots of healthy relationships, and know that a good partner will support your career and hobbies.  But I’ve never really seen a healthy relationship where two people were in the same creative field and supported each other.  The most encouraging essay from Significant Others was The Art of Code: Jasper Johns & Robert Rauschenberg by Johnathan Katz.
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Robert Rauschenberg (right) and Jasper Johns (left).  Image courtesy of Outlawmarriages.
Jasper Johns (b. 1930) and Robert Rauschenberg (1925-2008) were lovers for over six years.  They met in 1953, a time when homosexuality was not just under scrutiny, but vigorously suppressed.  Keep in mind that this was the McCarthy era, when fear of communism was everywhere.  All kinds of political propaganda circulated – in particular that the gay and lesbian communities were somehow a security risk to the country.
Rauschenberg has been a recognized as an artist well before Johns had even started dabbling in painting classes at Black Mountain College.  Rauschenberg married Susan Weil in 1950 to keep up appearances, but a year later was secretly involved with artist Cy Twombly.  In contrast to Twombly’s work and the paintings of the Abstract Expressionists of the time, Rauschenberg’s art was curiously quiet.  In fact, his artwork was a radical opposition to the entire movement.  His most famous piece during this time was Erased de Kooning.  Rauschenberg requested a drawing from de Kooning that he would later exhibit as his own after erasing the complex drawing.
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Erased de Kooning by Robbert Rauschenberg, 1953.  Image courtesy of Brown University.

He also created several series of White Paintings.  Paintings like these usually irritate me.  If I’m wandering around a museum on my own, I wonder why they are being exhibited.  They don’t seem to require any sort of technical skill.  Nor do any of the labels hint at why the composition might be ground breaking.  What Johnathan Katz did in his essay was put the entire artwork into context.  Rauschenberg’s White Paintings were a total negation of the self.  Abstract Expressionism was about the struggle of self expression – to literally blurt out emotions, inner turmoil, and identity onto the canvas with paint.  How could Rauschenberg do this when to be gay was so harshly received?  To come out was perceived as anti-American.

 

So my perspective on Erased de Kooning and the White Paintings definitely changed after learning this.  These works are Rauschenberg’s attempts to marginalize the idea of the self, of his own feelings, and his own sexual identity.  The canvases leave little trace of brushstrokes or any indication of who the artist might be.  They are completely and numbingly silent.  Instead of just seeing white panels, I can feel a real sense of isolation.  It’s like seeing Rauschenberg’s desire to erase himself – to obliterate a part of himself from existence.

 

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White Paintings by Robert Rauschenberg, 1951.  Image courtesy of A Year From Monday.
Rauschenberg began seeing Johns in the winter of  1953.  Johns was working in a bookstore, unsure if he wanted to pursue art.  Rauschenberg encourage John to use his creativity designing department store window displays.  The two worked on these displays and began painting together.  This marked a new direction of art.  Both Rauschenberg and Johns didn’t identify with Abstract Expressionism, and started making a move towards Pop Art.
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Target by Jasper Johns, 1958.  Image courtesy of Michael Arnold Art.
This relationship gave each artist the opportunity for self expression, dialogue, understanding, and support that neither had experienced before.  This gave way to unique compositions and paintings.    They were totally supportive of one another.  Rauschenberg explained:
“He and I were each other’s first serious critics. Actually, he was the first painter I ever shared ideas with, or had discussions with about painting.  No, not the first, Cy Twombly was the first.  But Cy and I were not critical . . .But Jasper and I literally traded ideas.  He would say ‘I’ve got a terrific idea for you,’ and then I’d have to find one for him.  Ours were two very different sensibilities, and being so close to each other’s work kept any incident of similarity from occurring.” (197)
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Numbers in Color by Jasper Johns, 1958.  Image courtesy of About.com

I love this notion of trading ideas.  It shows that they supported each other’s work, that they were both willing to strike out in new directions – they were both willing to take risks and try new things.  They gave each other permission to experiment with a new style of painting, and an environment for discussion.

 

This new direction went away from emotions on a canvas that was so common with Abstract Expressionism.  They instead placed other material objects on the canvas.  Everything from newspaper to cloth was fair game.  Rauschenberg started creating Combines, his own hybrid of collage, sculpture, and painted images.

 

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Yoicks by Robert Rauchenberg, 1953.  Image courtesy of The Whitney.

Johns began painting single image canvases.  His painting Flag in 1955 was such a hit because it made the viewer ask: “Is it a flag or a painting of a flag?”  The sheer absurdity of the composition leaves the viewer wondering about what makes something art.  The viewer isn’t trying to interpret the artists inner state, emotions, or sexual preference.  The focus is on the actual canvas and  larger questions like: What is art?  And what is good art?
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 Flag by Jasper Johns, 1955.  Image courtesy of MoMA.

 

The two artists started to develop a secret code in their artwork.  They shared objects, like light bulbs.  Johns would draw them, and Rauschenberg would include them into his Combines.  They shared many inside jokes and coded language in their work.  Some were photos, others were literary references.  Katz explains in his essay:

Exchanging ideas and motifs was an important part of the relationship between Johns and Rauschenberg despite their different approaches.” 

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Savarin by Jasper Johns, 1977.  Image courtesy of The National Gallery
To find a partner that gives you ideas, shares an ideology, and appreciates your interests and work is such a beautiful thing.  I think as humans, we are all looking for a relationship like this, regardless of sexual preference.  To find a partner like this is very rare.  And it doesn’t always last.  In the case of Johns and Rauschenberg, they broke up in 1961.  They each moved far from each other, and their painting styles changed quite drastically, as you can see.
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Sub Total by Robert Rauschenberg, 1971,  Image courtesy of Art Brokerage

 

GHTime Code(s): nc 

December 5th, 2012 by Monica Murgia

Bag Envy

The “IT” bag.  “IT” always seems to change too fast for me.  Handbags are the breadwinners of most design houses.  And it’s easy to see why when each new design costs upwards of $1,200.  My tastes are much more extravagant than my wallet allows.  I tend to like French designs.  My one treasure is the Chloe Paraty bag, which was a gift.  For the past 2 years, I’ve been OBSESSED with the Celine Phantom bag.  It’s so perfect it brings me to tears.  I love the shape, contrasting leathers and colors – it’s just so classic and versatile.  Much coveted, but the price tag just doesn’t allow me to take the plunge and purchase it.
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Celine Phantom bag in black leather, blue python, and blue suede.  Image courtesy of Spotted Fashion.
However, I found a great alternative.  A few days ago, Deanna stopped by The Baum School of Art.  I spotted her gorgeous handbag and swooned.  I nearly ran over to her and asked her all about it.
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This brown leather tote is so classic and sturdy.  The shape is wonderful – perfect for storing laptops, tablets, and books along with the other daily necessities.  It’s large enough to use for work, but not so big that you’ll throw everything but the kitchen sink inside.  (Something I am quite guilty of with large handbags.)  The bag is also structured enough that it won’t tip over or lose it’s shape.

 

 

 

 

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I was admiring the quality and practically interrogating poor Deanna about it.  The straps and stitching made me think of the Phantom bag, but honestly I thought this bag was more interesting.  Where did she get this amazing bag?  Was it French?  Maybe Italian?

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Much to my surprise, it was made by none other than L.L. Bean.  Yes, the manufacturer of those monogrammed backpacks everyone had in grade school.  Who knew the brand had such an elegant side?

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L.L. Bean Signature is a more sophisticated product line.  The offer updated classics, referencing their design heritage while remaining versatile enough for contemporary use.  The company started in 1911, when avid outdoorsman  Leon Leonwood (L.L.) Bean returned from a hunting trip with cold, damp feet.  He wanted quality shoes that would keep his feet dry.   With the assistance of a local cobbler, Bean designed shoes with leather uppers to waterproof rubber boots.  Thus creating a comfortable, functional boot for active people, L.L. Bean launched his company.

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Of course, this bag is unavailable on their site.  Here’s to hoping one will surface on the internet.  Or maybe Santa will bring me one?

 

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