Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet

Archive for the ‘Shopping’ Category

May 2nd, 2013 by Monica Murgia

The Great Gatsby & Brooks Brothers

Teaching fashion history this spring has been absolutely amazing.  There have been so many wonderful places to take my students.  It just so happens that the same week I covered the 1920s, Brooks Brothers also has the costumes from The Great Gatsby on display.  A stone’s throw from campus, we ventured over to take a look at the Fifth Avenue store.
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The miniature exhibition was courtesy of Warner Brothers, and completely fascinating.  Brooks Brothers allowed costume designer, Catherine Martin, to access their archives.  Martin designed the historically accurate menswear after carefully studying everything in the archives relating to the 1920s.  There was a short video playing in which Martin talks about the importance of consulting primary sources to make costumes authentic.  Dancing images of old advertisements, swatch cards, and illustrations filled the background as she spoke.

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The tuxedos and suits were so elegant.  Yet it was difficult for me to focus solely on the menswear, because the women’s costumes made by Prada were also on display.  Just look at the glitzy, embellished fabric.

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Prada gown illustrated by Steven Stipelman.  Image courtesy of WWD.
There has been such a buzz about this film for good reason.  Leonardo DiCaprio always carefully selects his roles, so I’m sure he won’t disappoint us with the remake of this film.  The costumes are magnificent. And, perhaps the best part, WWD covered this topic and included gorgeous illustrations instead of photographs.
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Prada gowns and Brooks Brothers tuxedos illustrated by Steven Stipelman.  Image courtesy of WWD.
Fashion illustrations have been abandoned with the advent of digital photography and CAD programs.  It’s so nice to see illustrations making a comeback, because they add  such a rich dimension to the mix.  It furthers the relationship between fashion and art.

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  Bottles of Moet champagne complemented the display.  The whole environment just felt so opulent.

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Brooks Brothers is also offering a limited edition line of menswear based on the film.  Everything from straw boaters, to oxfords, to full tuxedos are available for purchase.  I’m hoping that this creates a new trend of men dressing up!  It’s so attractive.  All of Brooks Brothers clothing is produced in America.  In fact, most of it is made right in New York.

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Who wouldn’t like to be greeted by a man wearing something like this?

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All images courtesy of Brooks Brothers and Warner Brothers Studios unless otherwise stated.

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April 20th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Augusta Auctions

Earlier last week, I took my class to see the preview of Augusta Auctions latest sale.  Twice a year, this auction house comes to New York, offering gorgeous fashion, textiles, and accessories that are de-accessioned from museum collections or consigned from private estates.

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Pursuing the selections was so much fun.  There were gorgeous dresses from every era spread out on racks and tables.  I loved this day dress from the 1930s.  The top stitching on the collar and sleeves was such an elegant touch.

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Every object could be handled, as long as you wore a white glove.  Auction previews are a great way to examine objects before they hit the block.  You can determine the condition and your budget.  If you are unable to attend when the lot is up for bidding, you can submit a phone bid.  No more wasting the entire day waiting for the lot of your dreams.  (New to auctions?  Keep in mind that every auction house has a buyer’s premium.  This means an extra percentage is added to your final bid.  These premiums range from 20% to 35% depending on the auction house.)

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There were also some fantastic dresses from the 1920s.  Their condition was really impeccable.  These dresses were carefully housed in a blue board box, and cushioned with tissue paper to preserve the shape.

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I just loved the hemline on this dress.

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This was another favorite!  The auction estimates were very reasonable.  I was really tempted to bid on a few things.  Who wouldn’t love a dress with beading like this?

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There were bins of ethnographic embroideries and textiles from around the world.  Seeing the quality and craftsmanship of historical textiles makes it so difficult to shop the contemporary market.  Just look at these hand embroidered flowers on this velvet cloth.

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The best part?  I ran into a friend I hadn’t seen in ages!  Giselle from Fashioning the Past was also at the fashion preview.  If you haven’t seen her blog, you should really check it out.

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April 15th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Forecasting Fashion

 

 

 

 

It’s been an intense week, so things have been quiet on my blog.  New classes, new students, presentations about The Stieg Collection.  Everything has been so much fun, but I’ve had little time to write.  I probably should be grading papers, but I wanted to write a post about my fashion forecasting class.

Much like it sounds, you can predict future fashions and trends if you know what to look for.  We look at different people, what motivates them to participate in fashion, innovations in textiles, trends in colors, and lots of other things.  What I like most about teaching this class is that I have to communicate how I see things.  Last week, I took my class on a field trip to do some trend spotting.  I have some ideas in my head already that fashion is going to become increasingly inspired by nature.

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Even in the city, you can see that people crave nature.  Plants line storefronts.  Colorful flowers and shrubs are displayed for purchase.  Food culture is becoming more focused on natural flavoring, organic produce, and saying “no” to genetically modified organisms.

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We also went to Brooklyn Charm, and I noticed a lot of jewelry that took cues from the natural environment.  Leaves, flowers, gems, crystals, geodes – everything pointed to the great outdoors.

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I couldn’t resist!  I got a few small charms for my own necklace.

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I saw some vintage clothing from the neighborhood we observed that had some great references, too.  I wanted to buy everything, but I was only observing.

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Leaves can be dressed up or down!

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And you can never go wrong with flowers.

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I started to see how people were already wearing this on the street.  Doesn’t it look sort of like the early 1970s?

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My thoughts were confirmed when I saw all the pictures from Coachella!  New York and California seem to agree some fashion points.  It’s a flower power revival, don’t you agree?

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Coachella 2013.  Image courtesy of Celeb Buzz.

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March 24th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Find of the Week: The Art Spirit by Robert Henri

 

 

My previous posts about the “Find of the Week” have always been about clothing.  But today’s post is all about a wonderful book I discovered.  The Art Spirit by Robert Henri is a collection of the artist’s beliefs, theories, and teachings on painting.  I can’t tell you how excited I was to accidentally discover this book!

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Robert Henri (1865-1929) was an American artist, primarily know for his portraits, and the leader of the Ashcan School.  Around 1900, this group of painters focused on depicting scenes as they were (Realism) instead of in the dreamy, staccato way of the American (and French) Impressionists.

Henri attracted droves of students to The Art Students League of New York, including George Bellows. (New to my site?  Please take a moment to read my previous post on George Bellows) Henri was an excellent communicator, mostly because of the passion which drove him to create art.  He saw no separation between art and life, constantly stating that art is a matter in which everyone is vitally concerned.  Why?  Henri opens the book with the following:

Art, when really understood, is the province of every human being.  It is simply a question of doing things – anything – well.  It is not an outside, extra thing.  When the artist is alive in any person, whatever his kind of work may be, he becomes an inventive, searching , daring, self-expressing creature,  He becomes interesting to other people.

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Current course catalog for The Art Students League

The Art Students League is still in operation.  After finding Henri’s book, I took a trip to the school.  There classes are extremely flexible and affordable.  You simply select the type of class you’d like to take, and pay for a month of enrollment.  Classes offered range in price from $80  to $240 for the month, and meet either once, twice, or five times a week.  The Art Students League also offers workshops, as well!  I’m hoping to enroll in a class or two this summer.

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Classroom storage at The Art Students League.

The book is so inspiring.  It is no wonder to me that Henri had so many students.  When I read his words now, so long after they were written in the 1920s, I can feel this dormant creativity in myself waking up.  A particular passage in the book really touched me:

“There are moments in our lives, there are moments in a day, when we seem to see beyond the usual.  Such are the moments of greatest happiness.  Such are the moments of our greatest wisdom.  If one could but recall his visions by some sort of sign.  It was in this hope that the arts were invented.  Signposts on the way to what might be. Signposts towards greater knowledge.”

1908 Jessica Penn in Black with White Plumes oil on canvas 196 x 97 cm

 

Jessica Penn in Black and White Plumes by Robert Henri, 1908.

That is what made Henri such a great artist.  He could observe daily life in such extraordinary detail.  Looking at his portrait of Jessica Penn, I imagine that he captured her likeness very well.  Penn seems very self-assured with her bold pose: shoulders back, hip thrust back and jutted out to the side, arms positioning the fabric of her skirt to show her silhouette more closely.  She has that s-shaped silhouette so typical of the time period. But look at her face: doesn’t she look a bit, well, bored?  Maybe she is just tired – those extreme corsets of the day certainly made daily activities, like walking and breathing, difficult.

Her outfit is really skillful depicted.  It really reminds me a lot of this dress by Jaques Doucet from 1903.

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Dress by Jacques Doucet, 1903.  Image courtesy of The Kyoto Costume Institute.  

 

 

 

 

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March 6th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Celebrating The Stieg Collection!

I’ve been so lucky to catalog and archive The Stieg Collection at The Baum School of Art.  About a year ago, the school was gifted the custom-made wardrobe of Mrs. Robert Stieg (Jane).  The collection spans from 1958 – 1968, and every garment was made especially for her by the Utah Tailoring Mills.  (New to my site?  Please read more about The Stieg Collection!)
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Back in November, I started organizing, photographing, and cataloging the collection for teaching purposes.  Of course, I also started researching and writing about the collection because it is such a fashion history gem.  My enthusiasm has been a bit contagious!  Happily, we are celebrating this generous donation by hosting the event VINTAGE.
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On Thursday, April 11th, you can join us to learn all about The Stieg Collection.  I’ll be giving a short presentation on Jane Stieg, the Utah Tailoring Mills, and how the Baum School of Art is using this resource for their fashion design program.  Several pieces from the collection will be on display.

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In addition, there will be a chance to buy your vintage treasures.  Remedy, Underwired Vintage, and Duo Design Studios will be there with their fabulous merchandise.  The event will be at the swanky Cosmopolitan in Allentown.  Tickets are available for purchase, just click here.  Hope to see there!
Many thanks to Lehigh Valley Style, Cosmopolitan, The Baum School of Art, and our vendors mentioned above!

 

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March 4th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Faculty Style

This post is long overdue!  Last quarter, my colleague Diane was wearing this fantastic outfit: red leather skirt, black shirt, Hermes scarf, and metallic belt.  I just loved her style.  Don’t you?

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I was really intrigued by the scarf.  At first glance, I had no idea it was Hermes.  I thought it could be, but there simply weren’t enough clues for me to go on.  As it turns out, it was the zodiac scarf.

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Diane let me take a closer look at the pattern, which I just loved.  Each of the astrological symbols is present, along with a chart.

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This scarf is definitely on my wishlist!

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February 28th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Byzantine Express

Once in a great while, there is a collection that blows me away.  Dolce Gabbana’s Fall/Winter 2014 was one of those dreamy, art inspired collections that I can’t stop thinking about!  In my eyes, this label can do no wrong.  They always make beautiful garments, most of which reference Italian art and history.  This year, they looked to Byzantine art that is so prevalent in Italy.
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Look at how the dress above (image courtesy of Style.com) has a geometric printed textile that mimics the gold coated mosaic bits of stone and glass.  The crown on the figure looks to have hand-sewn embellishments.  Looks a lot like this this Byzantine mosaic, doesn’t it?  The way the head is gestured, the crown with three points, even the eyes and crook of the nose all looks the same . . .
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Image courtesy of Orthodox Northwest.

There were so many great looks!  I tried to pick a few that had a strong correlation to existing mosaics.  This dress certainly looks like it was inspired by the mosaic of Saint Michael, the Archangel.  Take a look:
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The red halo, the blue tunic with golden Maltese crosses, the geometric patterned stole.  It’s all the same!
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The general patterns are a really close match, too!  Take a look at this hemline . . .
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compared to this detail . .
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 The accessories are so amazing, too!  Look a this handbag.  It really resembles Justinian, don’t you think?
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It’s not an exact match, but pretty close.  The crown is a different color and shape, the jewelry is different – but the clothing is draped the same way and fastened with a similar brooch.
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The collection is pretty dreamy.  Be on the lookout for Byzantine inspired fashion.

 

 

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February 27th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Find of the Week: Scarf by Jacques Fath

 

 

Ascots.  Foulards.  Scarves.  Whatever you call them, I’m fascinated by this accessory.  I have an enourmous collection of scarves.  In fact, I’ve started writing a book about my own personal collection.  Hopefully it will be out by the end of the year.  The only problem I have is just when I’m about to finish, I find another amazing scarf to add to the collection.  This week was no exception.  I found this lovely scarf by Jacques Fath! 

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I’ve written about Jacques Fath before in How to Speak Fashion, Part II.  Fath (1912-1954) was an eminent Parisian fashion designer that rose to fame during the WWII Occupation.  He became popular by designing dresses that could be worn while riding bicycles – which was the main mode of transportation.

After the war, he was considered to be one of the “Big Three” fashion designers – the other two were Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain.

His influence sky-rocked postwar, as he created very feminine silhouettes.  Fath’s garments were also fun, and allowed women mobility.  He died of leukemia in 1954.  His wife, Geneviève, took over the fashion house’s direction after his death until 1957.

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Jacques Fath
The scarf is cotton, and judging by the color way, I’d say it’s from the mid to late 1960s.  A little sleuthing around the internet indicated that Fath created a scarf and hosiery  line in 1954.  The early signatures are much different than the one on my scarf – probably because the business was sold in 1957.  The image below is from Polyvore and is dated to the 1950s.  It looks more like a real signature.
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After the company sold, the name would have become more of a brand identity than reference to the actual designer.  You can see that the label actually changed to reflect this.  My scarf has a more generic looking typeface on the bottom right corner.  But it’s still a gem!

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February 23rd, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Menswear: Saddle Up!

I’m always spotting amazing fashion during my travels. The New York subway system is a constant source of fashion inspiration for me. There is just a constant flux of people getting in and off the train, all with unique and individual ways of dressing themselves.  Last night, I spotted these awesome saddle shoes in contrasting leather and suede. They are by Cole Haan.  So beautiful!

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So here is why I love these: You can tell just by looking at the leather that it is a fantastic quality.  The brown leather looks very pliable, meaning it will mold to the shape of your foot the more you wear the shoes.  I’m also really partial to naturally dyed leathers in shades of brown.  Natural dyes and tanning processes in leather create variation in color.  I think these photos show exactly what I’m talking about.  The more you wear naturally dyed or tanned leather, it will scuff or change shades slightly in certain areas.  I love this effect!  It gives your shoes a bit if character.

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The green suede is also really beautiful.  I’m pretty partial to green, but this combination is just stellar!  It’s classic, could be worn with lots of different outfits, and mixing different textures on a shoe is almost always a good thing.  It’s just more interesting than a uniform solid color of leather.

I decided to check out Cole Haan’s site for the shoes.  The closest pair available for purchase is the Ellwood Saddle Oxford.  This version has a similar color way (British tan & khaki), but both colors are made of the same type of hand polished leather.  The Ellwood also has a cutout design on the toecap.

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Not as interesting as the pair I spotted on the train, but beautiful nonetheless.  The Ellsworth is currently available for purchase, for $428 on Cole Haan’s website.

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February 19th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Currently Admiring . . .

I’m always paying attention to what people are wearing.  Currently, I’m really admiring my colleague Leigh’s style.  Leigh works at the Baum School of Arts and is an amazing graphic designer.  Her style is so cute, too!  Look at what she wore to the office recently:

 

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I love all the layers she put together:  gray t-shirt, pastel blue oxford dress shirt, and navy blue knit sweater.  Paired with khakis, it’s such a classic color palette.  And I just love how the tie pulls it all together and adds a little flair.

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I’ve been really into menswear inspired fashions, and am really eager to try a tie myself after seeing this look.  Isn’t the tie spectacular?

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I asked her where she got it.  It was actually borrowed from her husband’s closet.  She let me take a look at the back.  It’s vintage from an Italian maker.  Ponte Vecchio is a famous bridge in Florence.  You can see on the back this tie vendor had locations in Florence and New York.

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February 13th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Behind the Scenes at Remedy

It’s so much fun when your best friend is a fashion designer!  You get to see the entire evolution of the design process.  And it’s even more fun when one of her models can’t be in the show and you have to fill in!  Ashley McAleavy of Remedy Designs is who I’m referring to, and this post is all about my experience backstage at her F/W 2013 show.

 

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Remedy is a line that focuses on sustainability.  Ashley is really committed to creating fashion that is environmentally friendly, beautiful, and completely sourced and finished right here in America.  I’ve been lucky enough to attend a collection preview before.  (New to my site?  Please take a look at Remedy: Collection Preview)  I was really blown away by her latest collection.  It was so sophisticated.  When I arrived for hair and makeup, I wanted to wear every look!

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Tawni Michelle Landford, left, applying makeup before the show.

There was a full hair and makeup team.  I was so lucky to have the lead makeup artist, Tawni Michelle Landford of Dramatizon Makeup Design and Kristine Murillo style me.  By the time they were finished with me, I felt like I could be a fairy princess on the set of Lord of the Rings!  Ladies, if you have an important event and need hair and makeup, DEFINITELY contact these two talented ladies!  Their artistry and vision is beyond words.

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Kristine Murillo styling a model before the show.

I can’t tell you how pleasant both Kristine and Tawni were to work with.  I had my hair done first by Kristine.  She was so kind!  She was careful to ask what I was comfortable doing with my hair, which way I like to part it, and so on.  If you know me at all, I have just about given up on my hair.  It has a mind of it’s own.  I told her that she was the professional, so she could have her way with my unruly mane.  She definitely worked her magic, creating a beautiful coil of braids around the top part of my hair.  Then she curled the ends.

Next, I was off to Tawni who was beyond stellar.  She was really gentle in applying the makeup.  She made me feel so comfortable, telling me stories and making up laugh.  We had a blast talking about everything from the makeup, fashion week, to the movie Desperately Seeking Susan.  Tawni is so creative, and designed the beautiful metallic foil look.  She made sure that each of model had a slightly different variation to enhance our individual features.

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I think the most difficult adjustment was being the in front of the camera!  Van Truong was both photographing and shooting video footage.  He took the photos of Tawni working on my makeup, which made me giggle even more.  I was determined to Instagram photos live from the show, so I snapped one of Van, too.  The photos that Van showed me were absolutely gorgeous.  Please visit his website to see more of his work!

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Then, Ashley pulled my look and helped me get dressed.  I absolutely ADORED this outfit!  It was a black sequin skirt with a grosgrain ribbon waistband.  She had transformed really lackluster dress from the 1980s into the beautiful skirt below.  The corset top was made from white ultra suede from pillows, and trimmed in black ribbon along the boning.  The level of skill and detail in each of these pieces was definitely couture.  And I felt so beautiful!  I was so happy to be wearing Ashley’s design.

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Then, all of the models lined up backstage.

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Ashley talked about each of the pieces in the collection.  She explained what each garment had been before, and how she transformed it to what we saw on the models.  It was so interesting to hear the process.  She talked about spray dyeing silk, to altering beaded dresses, to transforming the ultra suede pillows into a corset.  Now that is creativity and innovation!  I’m in awe of her talent and vision.

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And isn’t she pretty, too?  I loved her black dress.  Of course, it’s one of her own designs.

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There were so many fabulous dresses.  One of my other favorites was a black jersey dress that had hand applied Swarovski crystals down the sleeves, and  closed with a metal and crystal tie back.  See below:

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Still, I loved the outfit Ashley had me wear.  I hope no one bought it yet, because I totally want to add it to my wardrobe!  Be sure to visit Remedy on the web to place your orders.  And remember that Ashley can custom make pieces just for you.

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February 6th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Find of the Week: Red, Please!

Ok, so I’ve established that fashion is always on my mind. Even when I’m not intentionally shopping, I seem to find amazing stuff everywhere I go.  For many years, it’s made budgeting difficult. But my taste has evolved. I’m much more discerning about my purchases now. I’ve also gotten much better with setting and sticking to a budget.

Budgeting has, in fact, improved the quality of my wardrobe. I think twice before buying something mediocre. And I always seem to have the funds when something amazing is on the radar. I thought it would be fun to start a new category devoted to some of my stellar finds. So stay tuned for “find of the week“.

So today, I found this amazing sweater!!  It works perfectly with the trending and classic “touches of red” styles seen just about everywhere lately.  (It’s really a classic trend!  Just ask The Vintage Traveler.)

 

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I love this sweater! It’s such a classic, and is durable. It can be casual with jeans and boots, or upscale with a skirt or dress.  The gold buttons add a little shimmer.  And the pockets are such a menswear inspired detail.

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Best of all, I can just toss it in the washing machine. I was sad, however, that the original tag had been cut out.  I wish I knew who was responsible for making this adorable cardigan.

 

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But I guess the amazing red dress it came with sort of evens things out. Yes, they came as a set!  I wouldn’t pair these two pieces together, though. I like them worn separately.  The dress is so perfect for spring.  Or a summer night.  I can hardly wait for warmer weather!

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