Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet

Archive for the ‘fashion history’ Category

May 17th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Textile Designs by Rockwell Kent

As promised, I wanted to write more about the textile designs I saw at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  This was the original drawing that caught my eye.  The design, entitled Swaying Trees, is by American artist Rockwell Kent.

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This was a big surprise for me!  Kent (1882 – 1971) studied painting under William Merritt Chase and Robert Henri.  I’d learned a bit about his paintings while working at an art gallery.  Henri encouraged Kent to paint landscapes of Monhegan island in Maine on his own.  This experience of painting directly in nature greatly affected Kent.  Whatever medium he chose, Kent’s work always captures the amazing power of nature.

Kent gained a reputation of a neo-Transcendentalist because of this.  Transcendentalism was a philosophy that originated in the 1830s and asserted that spiritual experiences could be observed in nature.  Time spent in nature often created a mystical or transcendental experience to those that followed this philosophy.

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You can see that his textile designs capture natural themes.  The other accompanying design is called Running Deer.  Both of these were realized in 1950.  Kent made a similar design for Bloomcraft Inc called Deer Season, which you can see below:

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Kent also completed a few other designs for Bloomcraft Inc, including Harvest Time:
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Harvest Time by Rockwell Kent.  Image courtesy of Boston Museum of Fine Arts
And Pine Tree:
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Pine Tree by Rockwell Kent.  Image courtesy of Boston Museum of Fine Arts

 Unless otherwise states, images courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

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May 15th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Textile sketches by Sonia Delaunay

The Metropolitan Museum of Art is one of my favorite places to pass some time.  Earlier this week, I took a group of students to a special event celebrating Punk: Chaos to Couture.  As I wandered around the second floor, making my way to the exhibition, several sketches caught my eye.  The main corridor that leads to the special exhibition gallery is generally lined with works on paper – prints, drawings, and so on.  I noticed a lot of patterns, and knew they were textile designs.  (I’ll be writing more about those later!)  In the middle of this large corridor was a small table encased in plexiglass with the most wonderful sketches by Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979).

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These drawings are from 1925, and just darling!  I stood there a long time looking at them.  (They were a bit difficult to photograph without casting a shadow, as you can see.)  These sketches are simply entitled Sonia Delaunay: her paintings, her objects, her simultaneous fabrics, her fashions.  I think these are really prime examples of her design sensibilities, which included the art theory her and her husband Robert developed.  (New to my site?  You should take a look at my previous posts on Sonia & Robert Delaunay)

Sonia, along with her husband, painter Robert Delaunay (1885-1941), developed a color theory called simultaneity – the sensation of movement when contrasting colors are placed side by side.

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I love the geometry and color patterns in each of these sketches.  They clearly show a harmony between the fine and decorative arts movements at the time.  The green and black dress on the left is a nod to Cubism.  The middle dress looks uncannily like the interior of  an Art Deco building.  Perhaps it was inspired by a tiled floor.

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The silhouette is still column-like, which is a hallmark of the 1920s.  There is no defined waist, and the garments seem to hang vertically from the shoulders and obscure the shape of the body.   However, you can see that most of the hemlines are quite long – a definite contrast to the American flapper.  A nice alternative silhouette  to all The Great Gatesby buzz that’s been going around.

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All images courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

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May 15th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced

This week, I’m taking my classes to see Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced.  It is currently on view at the Museum of the City of New York.  Last week, I went to take care of the paperwork and got a special preview.

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Stephen Burrows is an American fashion designer, and was very active in the 1970s.  He studied at FIT and was quickly hired after an internship.

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A few weeks ago, I found a great book The Fashion Makers by Barbara Walz and Bernadine Morris.  There was a great biography on Burrows.  It explained how his grandmother taught him to sew as a child.  He explained: “I was fascinated by the zigzag stitch.  I put it on everything.”  He liked to use this to finish the edges on jersey dresses, because hems would weigh the fabric down.  The zigzag finish makes the fabric light, and curl and wave at the edges.  This design signature started to be referred to as the lettuce edge, because it looks like the undulating wavy edges of lettuce.

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I just adore the dress above.  The combination of colors are stellar, and it looks so easy to put on and wear.  Another favorite of mine is the outfit below.  It’s two pieces, and just so fluid and romantic.

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As I made my way through the exhibition, I was really impressed with how beautiful and easy to wear most of the garments were.  Like the exhibition suggests, each of the designs encouraged movement.  The lightweight fabrics, fluid draping, and uncomplicated construction are just magical.  A majority of my time is spent traveling for work, so finding clothing with these characteristics are very important to me.
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I don’t wear pants very often, but was crazy for these tulip pants.  The loose cut and way the fabric envelopes the leg is so interesting.

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I also really liked the mannequins the museum used.  Their postures made the clothing come alive.  Most mannequins don’t gesticulate in this type of way.  Generally, they are ridged and are simply hangers for the clothes.  These are so different, and help in imagine the garments on a moving body.

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Burrows was also very fearless about pairing vivid colors together.  There is a whole section of the exhibit dedicated to color blocking.

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I’m not that adventurous when it comes to pairing intense hues in one garment, but I did really enjoy looking.  This type of color blocking was a signature of Burrows.

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This set against the wall was so intense!  It looked futuristic – almost like something by Pierre Cardin or Andres Courreges.  These garments were all available at the O Boutique, the first commercial venture Burrows launched to sell commercially.  He was later signed to make clothes for Henri Bendel’s in New York.

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There were also accompanying sketches.  These are always some of my favorite items to look at.  It reveals so much about the design process.

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If you’re in New York, be sure to see this great exhibit!  Museum of the City of New York.

 

 

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May 13th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Moderne by Wesley Simpson

This post can be filed under “find of the week”.  It’s a silk scarf by Wesley Simpson.  Simpson was a textile converter based in New York.  (New to my site?  You should read these posts on Wesley Simpson) This scarf is called “Moderne”, and I’m curious to figure out when it was made.

 

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My time is a bit limited, as I’m currently very busy.  However, there are some clues to go on based just by looking at the design.  It has a curiously design motif based on Mayan sculpture.  In fact, the first clue I noticed was the human face.  It is a profile view.  The figure has large ears, and a sort breathing mask attached to his nose.

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There is a famous sculpture in the Mayan town known as Palenque.  Palenque flourishe during the Seventh Century, and has some of the finest architecture, sculpture, and art that the Mayans produced.  Pacal the Great was one of the most famous rulers of this town.  In his tomb, there is a sculpture that looks very much like the design on this scarf.

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Bas relief sculpture from the rule of Pacal the Great from Palenque.  Image courtesy of Exo Human
Here is a closer look.  Notice how they both seem to be breathing through some sort of tube.
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There are other design elements that look like Mayan sculpture.  Here are a few details:

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Dots within circles appear in lots of Mayan tablets  People and faces are exaggerated and stylized, composed of simple geometric shapes.

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It will be fun to do a bit more research on this when I have the time.  I’m curious to see if there was an exhibition on Mayan art in New York sometime in the 1940s or 1950s.  Hopefully in a few weeks I will have an answer.  If have any clues about this design, please leave it in a comment!

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May 2nd, 2013 by Monica Murgia

The Great Gatsby & Brooks Brothers

Teaching fashion history this spring has been absolutely amazing.  There have been so many wonderful places to take my students.  It just so happens that the same week I covered the 1920s, Brooks Brothers also has the costumes from The Great Gatsby on display.  A stone’s throw from campus, we ventured over to take a look at the Fifth Avenue store.
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The miniature exhibition was courtesy of Warner Brothers, and completely fascinating.  Brooks Brothers allowed costume designer, Catherine Martin, to access their archives.  Martin designed the historically accurate menswear after carefully studying everything in the archives relating to the 1920s.  There was a short video playing in which Martin talks about the importance of consulting primary sources to make costumes authentic.  Dancing images of old advertisements, swatch cards, and illustrations filled the background as she spoke.

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The tuxedos and suits were so elegant.  Yet it was difficult for me to focus solely on the menswear, because the women’s costumes made by Prada were also on display.  Just look at the glitzy, embellished fabric.

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Prada gown illustrated by Steven Stipelman.  Image courtesy of WWD.
There has been such a buzz about this film for good reason.  Leonardo DiCaprio always carefully selects his roles, so I’m sure he won’t disappoint us with the remake of this film.  The costumes are magnificent. And, perhaps the best part, WWD covered this topic and included gorgeous illustrations instead of photographs.
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Prada gowns and Brooks Brothers tuxedos illustrated by Steven Stipelman.  Image courtesy of WWD.
Fashion illustrations have been abandoned with the advent of digital photography and CAD programs.  It’s so nice to see illustrations making a comeback, because they add  such a rich dimension to the mix.  It furthers the relationship between fashion and art.

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  Bottles of Moet champagne complemented the display.  The whole environment just felt so opulent.

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Brooks Brothers is also offering a limited edition line of menswear based on the film.  Everything from straw boaters, to oxfords, to full tuxedos are available for purchase.  I’m hoping that this creates a new trend of men dressing up!  It’s so attractive.  All of Brooks Brothers clothing is produced in America.  In fact, most of it is made right in New York.

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Who wouldn’t like to be greeted by a man wearing something like this?

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All images courtesy of Brooks Brothers and Warner Brothers Studios unless otherwise stated.

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April 20th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Augusta Auctions

Earlier last week, I took my class to see the preview of Augusta Auctions latest sale.  Twice a year, this auction house comes to New York, offering gorgeous fashion, textiles, and accessories that are de-accessioned from museum collections or consigned from private estates.

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Pursuing the selections was so much fun.  There were gorgeous dresses from every era spread out on racks and tables.  I loved this day dress from the 1930s.  The top stitching on the collar and sleeves was such an elegant touch.

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Every object could be handled, as long as you wore a white glove.  Auction previews are a great way to examine objects before they hit the block.  You can determine the condition and your budget.  If you are unable to attend when the lot is up for bidding, you can submit a phone bid.  No more wasting the entire day waiting for the lot of your dreams.  (New to auctions?  Keep in mind that every auction house has a buyer’s premium.  This means an extra percentage is added to your final bid.  These premiums range from 20% to 35% depending on the auction house.)

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There were also some fantastic dresses from the 1920s.  Their condition was really impeccable.  These dresses were carefully housed in a blue board box, and cushioned with tissue paper to preserve the shape.

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I just loved the hemline on this dress.

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This was another favorite!  The auction estimates were very reasonable.  I was really tempted to bid on a few things.  Who wouldn’t love a dress with beading like this?

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There were bins of ethnographic embroideries and textiles from around the world.  Seeing the quality and craftsmanship of historical textiles makes it so difficult to shop the contemporary market.  Just look at these hand embroidered flowers on this velvet cloth.

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The best part?  I ran into a friend I hadn’t seen in ages!  Giselle from Fashioning the Past was also at the fashion preview.  If you haven’t seen her blog, you should really check it out.

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March 18th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Menswear: Vintage Pendleton

 

 

March is such an interesting month.  Not quite winter, not quite spring.  As soon as I pull out some of my spring outfits after a series of warm days, it seems to snow.  It’s that time of year when your entire wardrobe needs to be available – and layers are a great idea.

I was outside running in Central on Friday before meeting my friend Ashley for lunch.  It was definitely a cold day!  As I was literally running over to meet her, she called me.  She said there was a man standing outside with one of the best vintage coats she’d ever seen.  Ashley was definitely right!

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Andrew was kind enough to talk fashion with us.  This beautiful vintage coat has a great silhouette – there are so many great construction details:  deeply notched lapel, the buckled leather trimmed tabs at the cuff, and matching brown leather buttons.

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(Here is a great chart on lapel types for you, gentlemen!)

 

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The wool used for the coat is also really beautiful.  You can see that it was woven with high quality yarns.  There is lots of color variation, and the slubs in the yarn give it such a great texture.  See how the surface is slightly uneven?  That is because the yarn thickness varies.  The thicker areas are called slubs, and definitely make the fabric more interesting.  Don’t you just want to run your had over the surface?  (Keep this in mind while shopping.  It’s generally a great purchase if people want to touch your clothing!)

 

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The back has a single vent that can be buttoned.  This is a detail that I just adore.  It makes the coat very functional.  Unbuttoning the vent makes walking around and moving easier, but also lets more cold air in.  Buttoned, the silhouette is more formfitting and warm.  What a wonderful detail!

 

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Ashley and I were just dying to know who the maker of the coat was.  Andrew said it was vintage Pendleton!  I learned a lot about Pendleton by reading The Vintage Traveler.  Pendleton is a woolen mill based in Portland, Oregon.  The company is family owned and operated, and is over 140 years old.  Thomas Kay was an English weaver that came to America in the 1860s and eventually opened his own mill in Portland.  You can read more about the company’s history here.

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Andrew definitely layered his look to adjust to the drastic temperature change that day.  He had on a hat, gloves, and a great wool sweater.  Turns out, Andrew’s sweater was also Pendleton.  This is a great label to search for if you’re into the vintage and secondhand market.  You can, of course, purchase new Pendleton products.  I have the boots they produced with Doc Martens!

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March 11th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Blogging: Reflections, Gratitude, Bliss

Blogging.  A few years ago, I considered it to be a ”cute hobby” for people with too much time on their hands, or for established professionals that were far more important than little old me.  I probably had this limiting belief because I wasn’t very confident about my own abilities and knowledge.  In 2009, I made my initial attempts at blogging after watching the movie Julie Julia.  If someone could create a successful blog, book, and film about attempting to cook their way through a cookbook, what was my excuse?  Blogging isn’t about being perfect.  It’s not about having all the answers.  Blogging is about sharing your passions, your struggles, your perspective in a unique way – with YOUR voice.

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One of the things I am most grateful for that has resulted from my blog is working on The Stieg Collection.    So much of cataloging and archiving a fashion collection is done in private.  I’ve worked for Calvin Klein, which considers it’s archive a proprietary secret.  Private clients are also mostly interested in safeguarding their privacy.  And with many schools, publicly writing about anything on campus means jumping through endless hoops of approvals and revisions.  The Baum School of Art gave me full creative vision in writing about The Stieg Collection.

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The Stieg Collection.  Image courtesy of The Baum School of Art.

Whenever I write, I pick topics that pull at my heartstrings.  I never want to present anyone or anything in a bad or unfavorable light.  I’m not into defaming or damaging people, companies, or objects.  That is not how I operate as a person.  To me, life is about pursuing your bliss.  I want to fill every moment of my life with ideas, people, and work that I absolutely love.  This is always the framework from which I operate while writing.

There is so much that I love about working on The Stieg Collection.  First of all, just being able to look at and touch the wonderful racks of garments is pretty amazing.  Researching and recording the history of the Utah Tailoring Mills has also been exhilarating.  But learning about the Stieg family has been even better!

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Jane and Robert Stieg, 1971.  Image courtesy of The Baum School of Art.

Jane and Robert Stieg were high school sweethearts.  They fell in love at age 16, married at age 22, and built a beautiful life together.  They were married for 62 years and had two sons – both of  whom I am so honored to have met “virtually” because of my blog!  From the onset of working on this collection, I could tell that Jane and Robert were amazing people.  They had great taste in clothing, and cared for everything meticulously.  But this is just the surface level.  Jane had passed away in 2004.  Robert carefully cared for Jane’s belongings, hoping to donate them to a museum or school that would use them.  Not only did Robert want to create a tribute to his wife, he wanted to make a philanthropic donation.  He could have easily sold Jane’s clothing, or just have disposed of it.  But he didn’t.  He wanted the garments to be useful, and to tell a story.

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Dress by the Utah Tailoring Mills for Jane Stieg.  Also appears in image above.  Image courtesy of The Baum School of Art.

Robert also recently passed away.  I’m so sad that I never got a chance to speak with him myself.  However, I do have the opportunity to speak with Jane and Robert’s sons.  They have shared more information on their incredible parents.  They’ve assured me that Jane and Robert never fell out of love.  Robert Stieg Jr explained a bit more about the collection to me in a blog comment:

Monica, your blog posts are terrific, and I know both my mother and father would have enjoyed them tremendously.  My mother loved wearing the clothes and my father made the gift of them in the hope that others would enjoy them and find them useful as they pursured their own paths.

 

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Jane and Robert Stieg, 1994.  Image courtesy of The Baum School of Art.

I always find clothing interesting and useful.  But this is because they always tell a story.  Clothing tells about the time period, the political conditions, social groups, and so much more.  The ways that individuals amass a wardrobe also communicates their personal identity.  I think that Jane Stieg’s wardrobe tells a great deal about her.  She was classy, put together, and definitely took a lot of pride being Robert’s wife.  Ironically enough, you can tell a lot about Robert by Jane’s clothing.  He bought her the best he could afford, he wanted to make her happy, and saved the garments she loved so that her memory could live on.  What could be more beautiful than that?

 

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Many thanks to Phillip and Robert Stieg, The Baum School of Art, and Boyd Bingham!   And remember, you can see objects from The Stieg Collection at our VINTAGE event!  Buy your tickets soon, as there is a limited number available.  

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March 6th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Celebrating The Stieg Collection!

I’ve been so lucky to catalog and archive The Stieg Collection at The Baum School of Art.  About a year ago, the school was gifted the custom-made wardrobe of Mrs. Robert Stieg (Jane).  The collection spans from 1958 – 1968, and every garment was made especially for her by the Utah Tailoring Mills.  (New to my site?  Please read more about The Stieg Collection!)
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Back in November, I started organizing, photographing, and cataloging the collection for teaching purposes.  Of course, I also started researching and writing about the collection because it is such a fashion history gem.  My enthusiasm has been a bit contagious!  Happily, we are celebrating this generous donation by hosting the event VINTAGE.
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On Thursday, April 11th, you can join us to learn all about The Stieg Collection.  I’ll be giving a short presentation on Jane Stieg, the Utah Tailoring Mills, and how the Baum School of Art is using this resource for their fashion design program.  Several pieces from the collection will be on display.

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In addition, there will be a chance to buy your vintage treasures.  Remedy, Underwired Vintage, and Duo Design Studios will be there with their fabulous merchandise.  The event will be at the swanky Cosmopolitan in Allentown.  Tickets are available for purchase, just click here.  Hope to see there!
Many thanks to Lehigh Valley Style, Cosmopolitan, The Baum School of Art, and our vendors mentioned above!

 

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February 28th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Byzantine Express

Once in a great while, there is a collection that blows me away.  Dolce Gabbana’s Fall/Winter 2014 was one of those dreamy, art inspired collections that I can’t stop thinking about!  In my eyes, this label can do no wrong.  They always make beautiful garments, most of which reference Italian art and history.  This year, they looked to Byzantine art that is so prevalent in Italy.
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Look at how the dress above (image courtesy of Style.com) has a geometric printed textile that mimics the gold coated mosaic bits of stone and glass.  The crown on the figure looks to have hand-sewn embellishments.  Looks a lot like this this Byzantine mosaic, doesn’t it?  The way the head is gestured, the crown with three points, even the eyes and crook of the nose all looks the same . . .
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Image courtesy of Orthodox Northwest.

There were so many great looks!  I tried to pick a few that had a strong correlation to existing mosaics.  This dress certainly looks like it was inspired by the mosaic of Saint Michael, the Archangel.  Take a look:
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The red halo, the blue tunic with golden Maltese crosses, the geometric patterned stole.  It’s all the same!
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The general patterns are a really close match, too!  Take a look at this hemline . . .
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compared to this detail . .
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 The accessories are so amazing, too!  Look a this handbag.  It really resembles Justinian, don’t you think?
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It’s not an exact match, but pretty close.  The crown is a different color and shape, the jewelry is different – but the clothing is draped the same way and fastened with a similar brooch.
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The collection is pretty dreamy.  Be on the lookout for Byzantine inspired fashion.

 

 

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February 27th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Find of the Week: Scarf by Jacques Fath

 

 

Ascots.  Foulards.  Scarves.  Whatever you call them, I’m fascinated by this accessory.  I have an enourmous collection of scarves.  In fact, I’ve started writing a book about my own personal collection.  Hopefully it will be out by the end of the year.  The only problem I have is just when I’m about to finish, I find another amazing scarf to add to the collection.  This week was no exception.  I found this lovely scarf by Jacques Fath! 

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I’ve written about Jacques Fath before in How to Speak Fashion, Part II.  Fath (1912-1954) was an eminent Parisian fashion designer that rose to fame during the WWII Occupation.  He became popular by designing dresses that could be worn while riding bicycles – which was the main mode of transportation.

After the war, he was considered to be one of the “Big Three” fashion designers – the other two were Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain.

His influence sky-rocked postwar, as he created very feminine silhouettes.  Fath’s garments were also fun, and allowed women mobility.  He died of leukemia in 1954.  His wife, Geneviève, took over the fashion house’s direction after his death until 1957.

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The scarf is cotton, and judging by the color way, I’d say it’s from the mid to late 1960s.  A little sleuthing around the internet indicated that Fath created a scarf and hosiery  line in 1954.  The early signatures are much different than the one on my scarf – probably because the business was sold in 1957.  The image below is from Polyvore and is dated to the 1950s.  It looks more like a real signature.
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After the company sold, the name would have become more of a brand identity than reference to the actual designer.  You can see that the label actually changed to reflect this.  My scarf has a more generic looking typeface on the bottom right corner.  But it’s still a gem!

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