Miyake was always interested in combining technology and functionality into his garments. His iconic contribution to fashion was his Pleats Please collection. Miyake had a unique way of manipulating fabrics – he focused on geometric cutting and different ways to pleat the fabric to create three dimensional shapes (Note the photos above). His color pallet is usually very reduced, which keeps the focus on the movement of the wearer.Many of his garments take on the shapes of rectangles and other geometric forms when laid flat. However, once placed on the body, the garments take on:
“independent forms which neither disguise nor reveal the body.” (Source: V&A)
L by Clyfford Still, 1946. Image courtesy of abstract-art.com
Now, when I look at Miyake’s work, I see more than a sculptural quality. I see a very strong correlation to the paintings of Clyfford Still (1904-1980). Still was American, and a major painter in Postwar New York. He was part of the Abstract Expressionist movement with Philip Guston, Barnett Newman, Jackson Pollock, and Mark Rothko.
Abstract expressionism was a reaction to the tradition of representational painting. As a movement, abstract expressionism simplifies art down to its most minimal form – how do each of us relate to the energy and emotion of color?
Still paints jagged flashes of color give that seem like bits and piece of the canvas have been torn off. The shapes present in his work look a lot like Miyake’s pleating, don’t they?
Untitled by Clyfford Still. Oil on canvas. Image courtesy of michaelkasian.blogspot.com
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