Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet
April 12th, 2010 by Monica Murgia

Gaga for Gaga

gaga-telephone-brian-lichtenberg-500x389

Lady Gaga.  Whether you love her or hate her, she is an undeniable tour de force on the fashion scene.  What will she wear next?

Bubble dress by Hussein Chalayan

Grammy celebration tour? Bubbles, please.

Much Music Video Awards? A rocket bra, complete with fire power.

She's on fire!

It seems that America is divided on Gaga.  Some think she is completely outlandish, trying too hard to perform instead of focusing on being “herself”.    Others love her and desperately want to mimic her fearless style.

There are two things I love about Lady Gaga.  The first is her confidence.  It takes some serious courage to wear these out of the ordinary ensembles.  While her garments aren’t likely to make it into my closet rotation, I find her confidence absolutely inspirational.

The second?  Her commitment to giving publicity to the fashion designer that is an artist.  Simply put, Lady Gaga is a pioneer of the underappreciated fashion designer.Obviously, Gaga’s wardrobe isn’t the runoff the mill selection. 

I'll have the lobster bisque

(Hi, darling!  I’m running to Bloomingdales to get a crystal studded lobster headpiece for Saturday’s party.  Do you need anything?  I heard those nun hats are going on sale.  Want me to get one for you?)

Flying nun

If you remember from my previous post, Is Fashion Art?, there is an ongoing debate as to whether fashion should be considered an actual art form.   Isn’t it interesting that critics can regard Marcel DuChamps urinal a form of art, but not a garment?

Fountain by Marcel Duchamp

Or what about Piero Manzoni?  Most notably, he affronted Europe with his radical anti-art from 1956 to 1963.  Critics assign Merda d’artista (1961; English translation is Artist’s Shit) as Manzoni’s masterpiece.  Merda d’artista consists of 90 signed cans, each weighing 30 grams; of the artist’s own excrement.   How did he sell it? He based the price on the daily value of gold.  (What????  He pooped in a can and sold it for the price of gold?  And someone bought it????)

Merda d'artista by Manzoni

Um, yes.  And if you can believe it, the Tate Modern bought a can for $67,000.   In 2008, a can was auctioned at Soetheby’s for 124,000 euros.  The renown Gagosian Gallery in New York recently had a solo exhibition of Manzoni’s work.  (So is arguing with these critics over fashion as an art really important?  I mean, they legitimately think that poop in a can is art. . .you have to pick and choose your battles.)

So Lady Gaga has used her influence and confidence to spotlight some key fashion designers that are artists.  That is really why she is such a GENIUS.

Here are a few designer’s Gaga has worn that prove fashion is, indeed, a true art form.

Jeffrey Bryant:

Jeffrey Bryant, courtesy of Jeffreybryant.net

The Welsh stylist and costume designer has been designing clothing for musical performers for over 30 years.  Starting in 1978, Bryant got his start by making clothes for nightclub sirens including: gogo boys, drag queens, promoters, dancers.  (Aside from stating his career, Bryant got free access to parties and clubs.  Nice perk!)   His work is ubiquitous in Britian, but you’d be surprised that he’s no stranger to American pop culture.  Here are some other musicians Bryant has worked with:

Pet Shop Boys – Discovery Tour 1994 (Checkout the ziggurate inspired headpiece and priestly garbs in this video)

Rolling Stones – Voodoo Lounge Tour 1994

Rolling Stones – Bridges To Babylon 1997

George Michael – Net Aid Show 1999

Tina Turner – Millenium Tour 2000

Westlife – Dreams Come True 2000

Duran Duran – Astronaut Tour 2004/05

Duran Duran – Red Carpet Massacre Tour 2007/08

So what’s Bryant made for Gaga?  Let’s take a look:

Gaga in Bryant at the Mac Viva Glam Launch in London

Bryant Dress on Form, taken from GagaDaily.com

Bryant Dress on Form, taken from GagaDaily.com

Interesting shoulders.  Somehow being an 80s baby, I have a certain fear of shoulder pads.  Or anything that enhances the shoulder area.  It also kind of reminds me of StarTrek or some futurewear.  Maybe I’ll get around to trying something with pointy shoulders on soon. . . .

Bryant strikes again. From Gagadaily.com

Here she is again in Bryant.  This time it’s a lame latex long-sleeved dress.  She’s at an airport in London.  I didn’t know that latex was good for traveling.  I guess it doesn’t wrinkle. . .


Hussein Chalayan inspired her Living Dress, pictured here.  Also check out the video.

Moving dress by House of Gaga, 1

Moving dress by House of Gaga, 2

Moving dress by House of Gaga, 3

We already discussed Chalayan in my post Is Fashion Art? So make sure to revisit the post if you forgot or missed out.  The designer made her Bubble dress I mentioned earlier, as well as a leather jacket, both below:

Bubble dress by Hussein Chalayan

Gaga in Chalayan

Emilie Pirlot:

A 2009 graduate of the Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts, Pirlot debuted her collection in June 2009 at the ONE show.  The Academy trained the famous Antwerp Six (Dries Van Noten, Anna Demeulemeester, Dirk Bikkembergs, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van Saene. And Marina Wee), and continues to keep on par with its reputation of identifying and training talented designers.

Pirlot’s collection was entitled Mysterious Wonderland included large hats draped with veil that continue and link to the garment.  Her inspiration?  Fellini’s Otto e Mezzo (8 ½)   Check out her inspiration here

Gaga decided to wear Pirlot’s debut collection her Telephone video.  Check it out here:

Mysterious Wonderland by Pirlot

Gaga and Beyonce in Pirlot in Telephone

Somehow, the video leaves me a bit disturbed.  She’s a blond combination of Amy Winehouse and Marilyn Manson, poisoning an entire diner.  But I still managed to watch the entire thing.  She must be doing something right.

Come back this week for a look at Gaga in clothing designed by:

Rachel Barrett, Eden by Atsuko Kudo, Fred Butler (telephone hat), Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Brian Lichtenberg, and Theirry Mugler

GHTime Code(s): 28997 
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