Monica D. Murgia

Where art, creativity, and fashion meet
June 13th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Surrealist Legacy

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Today’s post is another interview with a student.  Massiva has been writing her thesis on how the Surrealist movement impacted fashion design.  This is a topic I have been fascinated by, so I was really eager to see what she would ask me.  Her questions are really thought-provoking.
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  •  Do you think that the surrealist movement influences fashion even nowadays? 

Absolutely.  Surrealist elements have been incorporated into fashion since the movement started in the 1920s. I’d say it’s heyday for fashion designers and Surrealist collaborations was in the 1930s and 1940s, but it’s impact can be felt since.  The Postwar interest in Surrealism and fashion was definitely influenced by Wesley Simpson.  He was a New York textile converter that worked with French artists to create textile designs.  This was a way for painters to have an expanded market.  Not everyone can afford an oil painting by someone like Salvador Dali or Rene Magritte.  But a few yards of fabric designed by the artist was a brilliant way to incorporate art into everyday life, and at a price point that many people could afford.  I think recent interest in Surrealism and fashion has to do with the insight of curators like Dilys Blum (Philadelphia Museum of Art) as well as Andrew Bolton and Harold Koda (Metropolitan Museum of Art).  These curators really brought awareness of Surrealism and it’s impact on fashion with the exhibits Shocking! The Art & Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli and Schiaparelli  & Prada: Impossible Conversations, respectively.  These exhibits allowed a new generation to become familiar with Surrealism.  After these exhibits opened, there was a clear correlation of Surrealist elements showing up in contemporary fashion design.  Prada, Philip Treacy, Diane Von Furstenburg – they were just some of the numerous designers that referenced Surrealism in the past 5 years.   I think that we will continue to see Surrealism impacting fashion because it gives a certain shock value.  People want to be remembered, and that’s certainly easy if you’re wearing a gigantic lobster on your head.

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 Rhinestone encrusted lobster hat by  Philip Treacy, 2010
 

  • Do you think that art will carry on influencing fashion in the future? 
 Yes.  I think the two disciplines are intertwined.  In my mind, they are really extensions of one another.  You can’t really have fashion without art – prints on textiles, sketching new designs, draping fabric, pattern drafting – they all require an artist’s sensitivity to color, silhouette, and the medium used. To be done well, there has to be a mastery and artistry to designing fashion.  So many designers are impacted by artists because they share a similar sensitivity to color, beauty, and representing intangible ideas.  On the flip side, I think it is impossible to have a progression in art without changes in fashion.  To illustrate what I mean, look at the images below: 
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You don’t have to be an art historian to see the progression.  Art changes – it reflects the change in what is considered beautiful, how people dress, as well as innovations in techniques and materials.  It’s easy to date the paintings and art movements by how they depict clothing and the ideal silhouette.  So I think it’s a natural progression.  Future artists and designers will definitely impact each others work.
  • Dali has an important influence on the 20th century, do you think Dali is a visionary?

Honestly, I think he was a little crazy :) He famously said things like: “I don’t do drugs. I  am drugs.” and “There is only one difference between a madman and me. The madman thinks he is sane. I know I am mad.”  But perhaps the chaos of his mind was what made him truly innovative.  He saw and experienced things that others didn’t.  I supposed that is what makes a visionary.

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  •  In your opinion, what would be Schiaparelli fashion house if it would not have been closed in 1954 ?
 I think Schiaparelli would have continued to push the envelope.  She liked being innovative and, well, shocking.  She was also extremely intelligent.  I remember reading that she once said: “Fashion is born by small facts, trends, or even politics, never by trying to make little pleats and furbelows, by trinkets, by clothes easy to copy, or by the shortening or lengthening of a skirt.” If her house remained open, I think that statement would have guided every design she made.  The house would have interpreted political sentiments and facts as they were – however beautiful or ugly they may have been.  Maybe she is like Vivienne Westwood in this way. I think she would have delivered small bits of truth via her designs.
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  • You surely heard about that, what do you think of the idea of Diego Della Valle to relaunch Schiaparelli house and give it a second breath?

I have heard this before.  When I hear about these kinds of things, I try to push it to the back of my mind.  I like to view collections and exhibitions without any expectations.  It may be magnificent, it might not.  I’m sure there will be elements of interest.  If I had any advice to Diego Della Valle, it would be to read Schiaparelli’s autobiography, Shocking Life.  If he is interested in relaunching her brand, I hope he takes the time to understand the way in which she perceived things.

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June 8th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Jeu de Cartes

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This week, I went to the New York City Ballet.  I was really impressed to see the following costumes by Ian Falconer on display in the lobby.

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Falconer (b.1959) is an author, painter, and illustrator.  He has made several illustrations for the cover of  The New Yorker magazine.  He started designing sets and costumes for the ballet in 1987 with his friend and fellow artist David Hockney.  He has designed costumes and sets for the New York City Ballet, the San Francisco Opera, and the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden.

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These beautiful costumes are for the 2003 performance of  Igor Stravinsky’s Jeu de Cartes.  Originally composed in 1936, this ballet is the personification of a card game.  The main character is a deceitful Joker.  Much like this tricky card, the Joker believes he is unbeatable in any game. 

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The ballet unfolds as a card game.  The entire deck is represented, and the costumes show each suit.  I love the elaborate details and heavily patterned mixture of fabrics.  From what I’ve read, the Joker gets defeated by a minor card – mirroring much like in life, you should never overestimate your status.

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These costumes were much more lively than the actual ballet that I saw.  I was curious to see what they looked like on a body, and found this lovely image:

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I can’t imagine a better way to costume the dancers.  Every angle showed such detail, and perfectly referenced the deck of playing cards. I wish I had one of these to wear for Halloween!

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All images courtesy of the New York City Ballet.

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May 27th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Punk: Chaos to Couture

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Prior to the opening of Punk: Chaos to Couture, there was quite a bit of buzz.  From what I gathered, a lot of people criticized the exhibition before they even saw it.  Strong criticism like this make me wary.  I like to make my own observations first.  So I was careful not to read anything about the show until I got a chance to take it in myself.

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Black leather lambskin with plastic & silver metal spikes and zippers by Christopher Bailey of Burberry, 2013.
Honestly, I wasn’t sure what to expect.  I’m a huge fan of Vivienne Westwood, so I assumed some of her work would be there.  Thankfully, it was!  Vivienne Westwood was dating a member of the Sex Pistols.  In the early 1970s, they opened a boutique on King’s Road.  The name changed several times, but  was most notably called Sex and later Seditionaries (1976-1980).  Westwood’s early designs were anti-establishment.  She purposely defiled popular culture images with graffiti, like the t-shirt below.  Many of the t-shirts openly referenced anarchy and communism.   She also incorporated fetish wear into her designs.
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“God Save the Queen” T-Shirt by Vivienne Westwood from Seditionaries, c. 1976-1980.
Most of the exhibit then focused on how punk trickled up and influenced luxury designers.

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The punk aesthetic can be seen in intentional rips and tears, hardware embellishments, and a sort of disheveled look.  Leather is always a nice finishing touch, too.  These two leather pieces really caught my attention.

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Ensembles by Balmain, 2011.

The skirt was my favorite part of the look.  Black and red leather covered in studs, intentionally shredded and pieced back together with safety pins.  While it has a DIY feel, work like this takes meticulous precision to complete.  Look at how the safety pins are placed so closely next to one another.

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As I moved through the galleries, I was really interested not only the details of the garments, but also how the space of the galleries had changed.  After noting how the designers distressed and embellished the garments, I focused on the design of the space.  The museum staff had cleverly used styrofoam which they carved  with graffiti and tags.  It was very faint, but visible in this columned gallery.

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Wedding Dress by Zandra Rhodes, 1977

I also started to see a correlation to other exhibits I’d see.  This jersey wedding dress by Zandra Rhodes reminded me a lot of what I had seen at Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced.  Burrows liked to use jersey and finished the edges with a zig zag stitch.  This kept the silhouette light, and made the edges wavy.

 

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Burrows called this the lettuce edge.  You can see how Zandra Rhodes used this same technique, but also used int for cut outs in the skirt.  Punctuated with crystals and chains, the jersey curls and waves around the body.  It’s attached to the satin bodice with safety pins.

 

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The construction details on this gown reminded me of staples.

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Recycling was another theme I loved.  I think it takes someone really creative to take discards and turn them into something fashionable.  This part of the exhibit was called Bricolage, which is taking random materials to create a work of art.  Bits of paper, envelopes, trash bags and other discarded objects were whipped up into the most inventive garments.  Others were made of fabrics treated to look like trash.

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Ensemble by John Galliano, 2001.

This ensemble by Galliano is actually cotton twill printed with a newspaper pattern.  Raffia, lurex, and scotch tape complete the look.

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But my favorite room was dedicated to graffiti fashion.

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Evening gown by Dolce Gabbana, 2008.

I’m fascinated with graffiti because it reclaims our right to art in daily life.  Art is generally the first to go with budget cuts in any organization – schools, corporations, the government.  It’s spontaneous, fun – and often temporary.

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Alexander McQueen’s performance dress was on display, too.  This dress was presented on stage, and the paint was sprayed in real time in front of the audience.

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Dress by Alexander McQueen, 1999.

Also on display was this dress by Vivienne Westwood.  It reminded me of Philip Guston’s later work.  (Guston was an abstract expressionist painter.  His later work was very cartoonish.  Have a look for yourself.)

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Dress by Vivienne Westwood, 2007.

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A Day’s Work by Philip Guston, 1970.   Image courtesy of Daily Artist.

 

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Dress by Vivienne Westwood, 2007.

I have to say, I’m glad I didn’t read any of the reviews before I went.  The DIY themes gave me lots of ideas how I’d like to customize my own wardrobe.  There will be updates when I get to these projects this summer.

Unless otherwise mentioned, all images courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

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May 23rd, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Trend Forecasting

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Today’s post is an interview.  My student, Jeremy, is writing his thesis on trend forecasting.  He asked me a few questions about trend forecasting companies.  I thought it would be fun to share our discussion.  If anyone wants to join our conversation, please leave a comment!  It would be very helpful to Jeremy.

  • In few words, can you tell me if trends are essential for companies? Or if they are not essential, and why.

Absolutely.  Trends impact every single industry, from fashion to transportation to food.  Since we live in an information-rich environment, it is essential that every business stays in tune with change.  The internet has really accelerated the rate in which information travels.  Consumers play a much more active role in product development with open source sites.  Sharing, commenting and liking on sites such as  Facebook or Twitter have allowed companies to interact with consumers on a more personal basis.  Observing consumers on these types of platforms are key to predicting future trends and consumer behavior.  What makes a trend essential for any company the way in which it relates to fundamental human nature.  People are constantly seeking a balance between stability and change.  Stability allows a person to feel comfortable, to relax, and perhaps the opportunity to “not think” when they are overstimulated.  Yet too much stability creates boredom.  This is why I think trends will always be essential.  Trends introduce novelty in ways that consumers are able to comfortable with and can quickly adopt.

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Image courtesy of beatrixbrownblog.wordpress.com 

  • In your opinion, what are the qualities required to work as a trend forecaster?

First, I think that all forecasters have to have a keen eye, particularly for color.  Color is such an important part of product development, mostly because it illicit a psychological response in people.  Some people are obviously more sensitive to perceiving color.  For example, it is difficult for someone that is colorblind to forecast colors and trends because they do not have the ability to perceive the range of color that most people can.  Recently, scientists discovered a woman that can see 99 million more colors than the average person.  The research on this is still very new.  What the scientists discovered, is that a majority of women that gave birth to colorblind children had an additional “mutant” cone for perceiving color.  (Cones are what allow us to see color.  Normally, humans have 3 cones.  A colorblind person generally has 2, hence why that cannot see greens or reds.)  After running tests on these women with the additional cone, one was able to see a much broader spectrum of color than those of us with 3 cones.  While I’m not a scientist, I believe this could be a scientific breakthrough in understanding why certain people gravitate towards fashion and art.  They probably are able to see a larger spectrum of colors than others.

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Image courtesy of people.tribe.net

Next, I would say that forecasters should have a real interest and desire to study the past.  Most new trends are really interpretations and modifications to fashions that have already existed.  It’s really important to know what was fashionable in history, and generally you can see changes in silhouette every 8 – 12 years.  You also need to know what impacted these eras socially, economically, and culturally.  People preferred certain styles because of what was happening at the time.  As you start to really look at history, you’ll see a pattern.  This makes trend forecasting more “predictable”.

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Image courtesy of theunsewn.com 

Third, trend forecasters have to be really curious and personable.  You need to observe what is happening everywhere.  You’ll need to talk to a wide variety of people.  Gathering data, especially about what consumers think they need and can’t find in the marketplace, is critical to being a successful forecaster.  You can’t be afraid to talk to strangers or experts.  You just need to march up to them, be friendly, ask your questions and listen.

 

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Image courtesy of web.jhu.edu

Lastly, I think that a really good forecaster has to be able to interpret a large amount of information and make it easy to understand.  A majority of clients and consumers will fatigue after reviewing too much information.  A forecaster has to take all of the guesswork and jargon out of the equation.  You need to make sure that anyone could understand your predictions easily, because they don’t have the background or interest to gather the information themselves.  If they did, they wouldn’t have hired you. :)

  • Is there a way to formulate a true prediction or do you think this process is just a way to dictate fashion?

 I’m not sure that there is a way to dictate fashion anymore.  The fashion world has become so fragmented.  It had to, to survive the ways in which society has changed.  I think it’s difficult to dictate a single fashion.  People have all different interests, shapes, sizes, etc. However, I think it is easy to formulate several possible outcomes that would satisfy consumers.  Most of this involves understanding what they want, how the world is changing, and what they need to feel that balance of stability and excitement.  Always being attuned to society and consumers lifestyles/desires/dislikes is the closest you’ll get to a crystal ball.

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Image courtesy of soundofcannons.blogspot.com 

 

 

  • In your opinion, are physical trend books and offices trend competing with online trend sites, like Style Sight? Are they compatible or competitors?

In my opinion, you need a physical book or report.  While online sites are nice to get a feeling or idea of color, they do absolutely nothing for communicating the texture and feel of fabrics.  Touching and understanding how a fabric interacts with the human body is really important.  It’s also important to see how certain colors transfer to fabrics.  Computers give a very saturated view of color.  In reality, the ways that fabric interact with dyes and how they reflect light is completely different in physical space.  You’ve probably experienced this while shopping online: you love the photographs of a product, but it somehow looks like different when it arrives.  I believe that online sites should compliment a physical trend book, but should never substitute for one.  There is only so much that a computer screen can convey. 

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Image courtesy of www.homedit.com

 

  • We do not interpret trends in the same way in different brand level (Luxury, Bridge, Designer, fast-fashion.)   What are the differences and similarities?

 Obviously, a lot is different in regards to the price point.   These types of lines may be looking at the same trend ideas, but their execution will be very different.  If you are working for a higher end brand, it is important to present excellent quality textiles.  It is also more important to present innovations in textiles, finishes, and other technology that improves the materials.  It is also important to consider what geographical locations the brands will be selling.  Different markets will want different things.  Most brands tune into this, because what might be very popular in France will not be in, say, Dubai.  I think larger chains, that offer mid – to low-rage items have the biggest challenged.  They have to interpret the trend in the cheapest and fastest possible way.  Luxury brands have the advantage of sourcing better and higher quality materials, and feel less of a “time crunch” to launch a specific trend or style.

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Image courtesy of www.materialicious.com

 

  • And finally, what future do you see for trends offices?

I think that trend offices will be more important because brands simply don’t have the time to sort through all of the visual information.  Many companies have downsized, and just don’t want to hire permanent staff.  Trend companies allow brands to have access to information and research a cost far below hiring permanent staff.  I also think that with the economic condition worldwide, it is the perfect service for young people to start contracting to bigger companies.  Everyone has to be creative with how to stay employed.  Why not do it offering your creativity as a service?

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Image courtesy of favim.com

 

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May 17th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Textile Designs by Rockwell Kent

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As promised, I wanted to write more about the textile designs I saw at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  This was the original drawing that caught my eye.  The design, entitled Swaying Trees, is by American artist Rockwell Kent.

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This was a big surprise for me!  Kent (1882 – 1971) studied painting under William Merritt Chase and Robert Henri.  I’d learned a bit about his paintings while working at an art gallery.  Henri encouraged Kent to paint landscapes of Monhegan island in Maine on his own.  This experience of painting directly in nature greatly affected Kent.  Whatever medium he chose, Kent’s work always captures the amazing power of nature.

Kent gained a reputation of a neo-Transcendentalist because of this.  Transcendentalism was a philosophy that originated in the 1830s and asserted that spiritual experiences could be observed in nature.  Time spent in nature often created a mystical or transcendental experience to those that followed this philosophy.

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You can see that his textile designs capture natural themes.  The other accompanying design is called Running Deer.  Both of these were realized in 1950.  Kent made a similar design for Bloomcraft Inc called Deer Season, which you can see below:

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Kent also completed a few other designs for Bloomcraft Inc, including Harvest Time:
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Harvest Time by Rockwell Kent.  Image courtesy of Boston Museum of Fine Arts
And Pine Tree:
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Pine Tree by Rockwell Kent.  Image courtesy of Boston Museum of Fine Arts

 Unless otherwise states, images courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

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May 15th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Textile sketches by Sonia Delaunay

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The Metropolitan Museum of Art is one of my favorite places to pass some time.  Earlier this week, I took a group of students to a special event celebrating Punk: Chaos to Couture.  As I wandered around the second floor, making my way to the exhibition, several sketches caught my eye.  The main corridor that leads to the special exhibition gallery is generally lined with works on paper – prints, drawings, and so on.  I noticed a lot of patterns, and knew they were textile designs.  (I’ll be writing more about those later!)  In the middle of this large corridor was a small table encased in plexiglass with the most wonderful sketches by Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979).

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These drawings are from 1925, and just darling!  I stood there a long time looking at them.  (They were a bit difficult to photograph without casting a shadow, as you can see.)  These sketches are simply entitled Sonia Delaunay: her paintings, her objects, her simultaneous fabrics, her fashions.  I think these are really prime examples of her design sensibilities, which included the art theory her and her husband Robert developed.  (New to my site?  You should take a look at my previous posts on Sonia & Robert Delaunay)

Sonia, along with her husband, painter Robert Delaunay (1885-1941), developed a color theory called simultaneity – the sensation of movement when contrasting colors are placed side by side.

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I love the geometry and color patterns in each of these sketches.  They clearly show a harmony between the fine and decorative arts movements at the time.  The green and black dress on the left is a nod to Cubism.  The middle dress looks uncannily like the interior of  an Art Deco building.  Perhaps it was inspired by a tiled floor.

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The silhouette is still column-like, which is a hallmark of the 1920s.  There is no defined waist, and the garments seem to hang vertically from the shoulders and obscure the shape of the body.   However, you can see that most of the hemlines are quite long – a definite contrast to the American flapper.  A nice alternative silhouette  to all The Great Gatesby buzz that’s been going around.

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All images courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

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May 15th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced

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This week, I’m taking my classes to see Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced.  It is currently on view at the Museum of the City of New York.  Last week, I went to take care of the paperwork and got a special preview.

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Stephen Burrows is an American fashion designer, and was very active in the 1970s.  He studied at FIT and was quickly hired after an internship.

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A few weeks ago, I found a great book The Fashion Makers by Barbara Walz and Bernadine Morris.  There was a great biography on Burrows.  It explained how his grandmother taught him to sew as a child.  He explained: “I was fascinated by the zigzag stitch.  I put it on everything.”  He liked to use this to finish the edges on jersey dresses, because hems would weigh the fabric down.  The zigzag finish makes the fabric light, and curl and wave at the edges.  This design signature started to be referred to as the lettuce edge, because it looks like the undulating wavy edges of lettuce.

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I just adore the dress above.  The combination of colors are stellar, and it looks so easy to put on and wear.  Another favorite of mine is the outfit below.  It’s two pieces, and just so fluid and romantic.

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As I made my way through the exhibition, I was really impressed with how beautiful and easy to wear most of the garments were.  Like the exhibition suggests, each of the designs encouraged movement.  The lightweight fabrics, fluid draping, and uncomplicated construction are just magical.  A majority of my time is spent traveling for work, so finding clothing with these characteristics are very important to me.
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I don’t wear pants very often, but was crazy for these tulip pants.  The loose cut and way the fabric envelopes the leg is so interesting.

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I also really liked the mannequins the museum used.  Their postures made the clothing come alive.  Most mannequins don’t gesticulate in this type of way.  Generally, they are ridged and are simply hangers for the clothes.  These are so different, and help in imagine the garments on a moving body.

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Burrows was also very fearless about pairing vivid colors together.  There is a whole section of the exhibit dedicated to color blocking.

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I’m not that adventurous when it comes to pairing intense hues in one garment, but I did really enjoy looking.  This type of color blocking was a signature of Burrows.

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This set against the wall was so intense!  It looked futuristic – almost like something by Pierre Cardin or Andres Courreges.  These garments were all available at the O Boutique, the first commercial venture Burrows launched to sell commercially.  He was later signed to make clothes for Henri Bendel’s in New York.

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There were also accompanying sketches.  These are always some of my favorite items to look at.  It reveals so much about the design process.

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If you’re in New York, be sure to see this great exhibit!  Museum of the City of New York.

 

 

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May 13th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Moderne by Wesley Simpson

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This post can be filed under “find of the week”.  It’s a silk scarf by Wesley Simpson.  Simpson was a textile converter based in New York.  (New to my site?  You should read these posts on Wesley Simpson) This scarf is called “Moderne”, and I’m curious to figure out when it was made.

 

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My time is a bit limited, as I’m currently very busy.  However, there are some clues to go on based just by looking at the design.  It has a curiously design motif based on Mayan sculpture.  In fact, the first clue I noticed was the human face.  It is a profile view.  The figure has large ears, and a sort breathing mask attached to his nose.

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There is a famous sculpture in the Mayan town known as Palenque.  Palenque flourishe during the Seventh Century, and has some of the finest architecture, sculpture, and art that the Mayans produced.  Pacal the Great was one of the most famous rulers of this town.  In his tomb, there is a sculpture that looks very much like the design on this scarf.

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Bas relief sculpture from the rule of Pacal the Great from Palenque.  Image courtesy of Exo Human
Here is a closer look.  Notice how they both seem to be breathing through some sort of tube.
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There are other design elements that look like Mayan sculpture.  Here are a few details:

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Dots within circles appear in lots of Mayan tablets  People and faces are exaggerated and stylized, composed of simple geometric shapes.

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It will be fun to do a bit more research on this when I have the time.  I’m curious to see if there was an exhibition on Mayan art in New York sometime in the 1940s or 1950s.  Hopefully in a few weeks I will have an answer.  If have any clues about this design, please leave it in a comment!

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May 2nd, 2013 by Monica Murgia

The Great Gatsby & Brooks Brothers

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Teaching fashion history this spring has been absolutely amazing.  There have been so many wonderful places to take my students.  It just so happens that the same week I covered the 1920s, Brooks Brothers also has the costumes from The Great Gatsby on display.  A stone’s throw from campus, we ventured over to take a look at the Fifth Avenue store.
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The miniature exhibition was courtesy of Warner Brothers, and completely fascinating.  Brooks Brothers allowed costume designer, Catherine Martin, to access their archives.  Martin designed the historically accurate menswear after carefully studying everything in the archives relating to the 1920s.  There was a short video playing in which Martin talks about the importance of consulting primary sources to make costumes authentic.  Dancing images of old advertisements, swatch cards, and illustrations filled the background as she spoke.

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The tuxedos and suits were so elegant.  Yet it was difficult for me to focus solely on the menswear, because the women’s costumes made by Prada were also on display.  Just look at the glitzy, embellished fabric.

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Prada gown illustrated by Steven Stipelman.  Image courtesy of WWD.
There has been such a buzz about this film for good reason.  Leonardo DiCaprio always carefully selects his roles, so I’m sure he won’t disappoint us with the remake of this film.  The costumes are magnificent. And, perhaps the best part, WWD covered this topic and included gorgeous illustrations instead of photographs.
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Prada gowns and Brooks Brothers tuxedos illustrated by Steven Stipelman.  Image courtesy of WWD.
Fashion illustrations have been abandoned with the advent of digital photography and CAD programs.  It’s so nice to see illustrations making a comeback, because they add  such a rich dimension to the mix.  It furthers the relationship between fashion and art.

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  Bottles of Moet champagne complemented the display.  The whole environment just felt so opulent.

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Brooks Brothers is also offering a limited edition line of menswear based on the film.  Everything from straw boaters, to oxfords, to full tuxedos are available for purchase.  I’m hoping that this creates a new trend of men dressing up!  It’s so attractive.  All of Brooks Brothers clothing is produced in America.  In fact, most of it is made right in New York.

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Who wouldn’t like to be greeted by a man wearing something like this?

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All images courtesy of Brooks Brothers and Warner Brothers Studios unless otherwise stated.

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April 23rd, 2013 by Monica Murgia

The Prints of Mary Cassatt

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There is a great exhibition currently on view at the New York Public Library.  It highlights the prints of famed Impressionist painter Mary Cassatt (1844-1917).  Cassatt was renown for her contributions to the Impressionist school of painting in France, but I knew every little about her efforts of printmaking.

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The Fitting by Mary Cassatt, 1891.  Color print with drypoint and aquatint.

Cassatt was from Pennsylvania, and studied at the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts as a teenager.  Art schools were much different then.  Females were not allowed to draw the nude models in classes.  They instead were instructed to draw from mannequins and plaster casts.  In 1866, Cassatt moves to Paris to further her studies.

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She starts showing her work at the official Paris Salon, but was rejected in 1875.  This is the same year that she accepts an invitation from Edgar Degas to join the Impressionist group.

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The Coiffure by Mary Cassatt, 1891.  Image courtesy of NYPL.

I immediately noticed how much Cassatt’s prints looked like Japanese woodblock prints from the era.  The show went on to talk about how many of Cassatt’s early prints were influenced by the influx of Japanese art  that flooded Paris in the late 19th Century.  Many of her compositions mimic traditional Japanese art: the placement of the subject, the use of space, and the idea of capturing moments of daily life.

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Takashima Ohisa Using Two Mirrors to Observe Her Coiffure by Kitagawa Utamaro, c. 1795.  Image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  

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Another observation that interested me was the representation of patterns on textiles and other decorative objects.  Patterns seemed to jump out at me: the  floral print on the carpet, the painted  pitcher, the stripes on the subject’s dress.

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I also enjoyed seeing several prints of with the same composition, but that had different layers of plates.  This was because Cassatt was experimenting with reworking her copper plates and perhaps which colors of acquatint  she would use.

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Afternoon Tea Party by Mary Cassatt, 1891.  Image courtesy of NYPL.

Seeing the various stages of Cassatt’s process is so interesting.  I love seeing work like this, because it allows you into the artist’s mind.  You can see how she dealt with challenges in depicting the image as it was in her mind.  Maybe she wanted more depth in the background, or the cups to be a darker blue.  It reminded me of the exhibition on Matisse – where you started to see how the artist revisited a composition again and again to perfect it.

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Again, you can see this evolution in The Letter.  One has a very plain background, while the other focuses on the pattern of the wallpaper.

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The Letter by Mary Cassatt, 1891.  Image courtesy of NYPL.

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If you can’t make it to the show, the exhibition catalog is available online.

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Mother’s Kiss by Mary Cassatt, 1891.  Image courtesy of NYPL.

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April 20th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Augusta Auctions

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Earlier last week, I took my class to see the preview of Augusta Auctions latest sale.  Twice a year, this auction house comes to New York, offering gorgeous fashion, textiles, and accessories that are de-accessioned from museum collections or consigned from private estates.

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Pursuing the selections was so much fun.  There were gorgeous dresses from every era spread out on racks and tables.  I loved this day dress from the 1930s.  The top stitching on the collar and sleeves was such an elegant touch.

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Every object could be handled, as long as you wore a white glove.  Auction previews are a great way to examine objects before they hit the block.  You can determine the condition and your budget.  If you are unable to attend when the lot is up for bidding, you can submit a phone bid.  No more wasting the entire day waiting for the lot of your dreams.  (New to auctions?  Keep in mind that every auction house has a buyer’s premium.  This means an extra percentage is added to your final bid.  These premiums range from 20% to 35% depending on the auction house.)

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There were also some fantastic dresses from the 1920s.  Their condition was really impeccable.  These dresses were carefully housed in a blue board box, and cushioned with tissue paper to preserve the shape.

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I just loved the hemline on this dress.

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This was another favorite!  The auction estimates were very reasonable.  I was really tempted to bid on a few things.  Who wouldn’t love a dress with beading like this?

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There were bins of ethnographic embroideries and textiles from around the world.  Seeing the quality and craftsmanship of historical textiles makes it so difficult to shop the contemporary market.  Just look at these hand embroidered flowers on this velvet cloth.

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The best part?  I ran into a friend I hadn’t seen in ages!  Giselle from Fashioning the Past was also at the fashion preview.  If you haven’t seen her blog, you should really check it out.

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April 17th, 2013 by Monica Murgia

Pauline Trigère & La Tortue

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There is a special place in my heart for books.  Libraries and bookstores are some of my favorite places to hangout.  Time spent paging through books always leads to an interesting discovery.  Never once have I been disappointed by spending time in the stacks.  Today, I was setting aside some books for a course  that I’m teaching.  I wasn’t sure what I would find in the library, but wanted to have a few good resources on reserve for my students.  I pulled a lot of books I’m familiar with.  There was one I came cross that I’d never heard of before: The Fashion Makers by Barbara Walz and Bernadine Morris.  I started flipping through, and then there she was:

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Pauline Trigère at her home, La Tortue!  Last year, I was lucky enough to find a dress by Trigère.  It started my fascination with the designer.  (New to my site?  Please take a moment to read these previous posts)

Pauline Trigère (1908-2002) was born in Paris and became an iconic fashion designer in Post War America. Her mother was a dressmaker and her father a tailor who had made military uniforms for Russian aristocrats.  Trigère learned quickly from her parents, and designed her first dress as a teenager.  She never sketched her designes, but worked by draping right on the mannequin.

Trigère moved to New York in 1937 with her husband Lazar Radley, their two sons, her mother, her brother Robert.  Trigère first worked at Ben Gershel, and later assisted Travis Banton at Hattie Carnegie. After getting fired from Hattie Carnegie, Trigère and her brother Robert decided to start their own business.

Trigère builds quite a brand in America.  So what is all this turtle business?  The turtle becomes a a major element of the Trigère brand as time goes on.  Robert gave her a small turtle talisman when they first started the business.  Then, Trigère started to see them everywhere.   The turtle became a hallmark of her line.

 

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The Arizona Costume Institute explains:

She named her country estate in Westchester County, New York, La Tortue (The Turtle) because there were three turtles sunning themselves on a little rock when she first saw it. A collection of well over nine hundred turtles fashioned in gold, silver, needlepoint, crystal and other materials adorned the estate.  In each collection, Trigere designed a garment with a turtle print.

I actually have a scarf by Trigère that depicts a turtle.  The best part?  If you look closely at the photo of Trigère, she is wearing a shirt and scarf of the same design.  My scarf is black and red, although other colors were available.

 

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